my friend 07 G burned oil. 1.5qt every 3500 miles. He took it to Costa Mesa Infiniti and they put a thicker oil in his car. 3500 miles later, the dealership denied a new engine because the thicker oil didn't burn as much and the thinner oil.

Months later, TSB went out and he was approved for a new engine.

 

I use 5w30 and my car doesn't seem to burn oil... I check the oil before a new oil change and it seems just as much comes out than went in when I got a new oil change. I don't rag out my car neither and drive it well if that helps any lol.

 

To add on to this thread, 5w30, 10w30, and 30 SAE are all different in performance. 5w30 has additives to help in winter while SAE is tested with one measurement I have read that 30 performs like 5w30. If you look up a temperature chart for your oils 10w30 can't get circulating on cold starts under the bottom of a thermometer and the flipside allows it to maintain anotomical cooling properties into a higher heat zone. Fully synthetic will both clean your motor out and won't break down like conventional. I prefer 10w30 full synthetic with Lucas full synthetic stabilizer. Since I am burning oil I am trying to find a cheaper way to keep it satisfactory without changing it every two months. Run a thicker oil and reduce friction. Reduces heat and wear while also prolonging oil and engine life.

 

I like using 10w30 through the spring, summer and fall and I use 5w30 in the winter.

 

Yeah... Your generalizing. Bobistheoilguy.com

 

Stop using that lucas stuffs. U should try 3 syntheic quarts and 2 conventional of the same weight. see if that helps your consumption. Synthetic doesnt break down and burn, but if ur loosing oil because of a engine built on the higher end of the tolerance, synthetic is going to slip by and burn faster than conventional.

 

Are you referring to the higher tolerance as in how hot the vq runs? I have also never heard Of running both. I tried it on my mower when it started overheating. Haha. Never a car though.

 

If ur cylinder walls or whatever part the oil is leaking through internally was machined to the incorrect size.

 

Do you happen to know why the older g is burning oil? I have that issue and I don't rwmwmeber seeing the problem in the tsb just seeing that the motor gets replaced.

 

It's so sporadic no one knows exactly why. It's in the production deviation or the piston rings.

 

I live in SoCal and it's never cold. So 10w30 is more ideal than 5w30?

 

I live in socal as well. 06 g35 coupe 6mt with 5w30 amsoil. 3k miles so far with no issues. Ive used mobil1 5w30 full synthetic and had no issues.

Keep in mind that my car does not have the oil consumption issue though.

 

Yea I would say you can't go wrong with Mobil 1 full Synthetic 5w30, I live in a hot climate and have had no problems.

 

So what oil would you guys recommend for some one who lives in South Dakota with a Procharged G35? Winters can be in the negatives and summers can be 95*+

 

You should alternate. You want a thinner oil so your motor cranks, but not too thin. My Toyota truck actually froze when I was in Utah. 5w30 would be OK in the winter I would not go any higher than 10w30. Currently I am running 10w40 with Lucas petroleum additive, but I am in Hawaii. My motor stopped cooking and actually runs way smoother. Maybe that in the summer.. It's your call just don't go past 40. My buddy runs 50 with no problems, but that is too much for me..