The overheating is related to the 40F rise in rad input air caused by AC heat transfer. Obviously something you have not maintained has used up all the brand new reserve built into the system.
After 90k miles you are approaching the design rebuild point, but it is probably just accumulated dirt, leaves, road crap between condenser and rad.

 

Thanks Q45, tell me how to maintain it, I take good care of the car but I guessed I missed a spot, what could I do to get things back to running top
notch, I change my oils regulary and baby the paint, even one of my friends
asked me if I had my car painted.

What should I be doing besides a rad flush??

GBoy

 

i had this probably recently and im pretty sure its air in your system...i know you said you bled the air but maybe you didnt do it long enough. when you drive without the ac on does your temp go up? if it just goes up when you turn the ac on, im pretty damn sure its air in your system. thats EXACTLY what happened to me...after installing my stillen sc on my car it was running completely fine...as soon as i turned on the ac a couple of days later (i rarely use the ac) the temp needle started going up. turn off the air and the needle drops right? if so, bleed your system more before you go drop a lot of money.

 

Thanks ...is that something I can do myself, just looking through the shop manual now, but my garage guy did this and you are thinking he did not get
all the air out?

GBoy

 

BTW, where is the condensor, looks like I have to remove some stuff to get
to it and the radiator.

GBoy

 

Reservoir looks dry my garage guy filled it up yesterday, whats with that, I have no leaks that I'm aware of..

GBoy

 

I wasn't going to chime in because sounds like you guys had it figured out. I would put a $5 spot on it being a leak related to a water pump that is ready to go.

 

Drove around all day but weather is a lot cooler and no issues whatsoever
Not sure how to properly maintain my cooling system but will try to pull out the rad to see if I have any debris ..

Is this any easy job or should it be left to the professionals.

GBoy

 

Best way to clean the debris is to pull the radiator from the car. You need to disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, remove the fans shroud/fans (depending on if you are mechanical or electrical fans), then pull the radiator out. Do a search for the maintenance manual on this site and you will find detailed instructions. This is the way I would do it. I wouldn't just try to clean it out with a water or air hose.

Notice you have to pull the radiator, thus emptying your system. You will have to refill it again with NEW radiator fluid. As noted previously, check your water pump too. Your car is an older car and these things do go out. Judging from what I have read here the water pump replacement is beyond a DIY for yourself, leave that one to a pro.

So, here is what I would do in this order:
1. Check fluid level, top off if necessary.

2. Check to make sure fans are operational. Let car idle for about 20 minutes (bring to operating temp) and see if the fans kick in.

3. If fans don't kick in check for blown fuse.

4. If fans work and radiator is topped off then check for debris between radiator and AC condenser (AC condenser is right in front of the radiator...looks like a radiator b/c it is a heat exchanger too).

5. If no debris then have a mechanic check for head gasket or water pump failure.

This is what I would do, best of luck and I hope everything works out for you.

 

Did you refill the resevoir and rad? Did they go down if so?

If you are having issues, stop n go traffic driving will show the behavior more than just spending time driving where the airflow will help with cooling

 

Thanks Twin, great advice, I just made an appointement with the dealer
as I spoke to the service manager and he said that usually its just a dirty rad
so will spend a few $$ and let them do it, as they will be able to do it in an hour, and I would take all day. I will let you know how it turns out.

GBoy

 

Just budget for a new rad, water pump, thermo, hoses, and electric fans and eventually a new condenser if you expect as new coolant system performance. You might get lucky and not need the bulk of these until 150k or learn to accept degraded cooling performance.

The aluminum alloy in rad fins develops an insulative oxidation coating that reduces thermal transfer so replacement is all that solves the last few degrees F of reduced performance.

 

Why can the insulative oxidation not be removed?

 

I have never had to replace a radiator. Have replaced about 4 water pumps though (1 vehicle 160K miles, and 2 over 100K miles)

 

Simple...

Go to Home Depot and get a can of air conditioner coil cleaner. Make sure the engine is cold. Follow the directions on the can, spray the radiator with the cleaner, let it soak and rinse it off. Use the water flow to wash out bugs and dirt. Oxidation is gone!