Hi,

This weekend I installed (with my good friend Steve --SteveAreno here) my Injen SES exhaust and Kinetix Hi-Flo cats. No sooner did I get on the freeway did the Service Engine Soon light come on in the dash and on my NAV. Now, I did reinstall the sensors from the old cats to the new and tightened everything down, do you think the cars ECU detects MORE air flow and thinks te stock cats are malfunctioning? I need help on how to fix this. I tried resetting the ECU with the "remove the negative on the battery" option, but that was a no go. HELP! I want that damn light OFF.

2 G or NOT 2 G, there is no question!

Injen SES, Kinetix cats, K&N Typhoon, 19" PIAA Super Rozza's (19x9 & 19x10)

 

i thought the kinetix cats werent suppose to turn on the check engine light? since you have cats you should go get the technosquare ecu upgrade.

 

gdupg35's did the same after I installed his, and I reset the ECU via the "quick" method, and it cleared the problem. It was caused when we fired up the car without the O2 sensor attached, I believe, but cleared as soon as I performed the quick reset.

G

2003.5 Black w/ Willow G35
Premium / Sport / Aero / Winter / Navi / Tint
<font color=blue>Z-tube, Pop-charger, Borla True-Dual Exhaust, Eibach Pro Kit, GroundingGear</font color=blue>

 

My dumb guess was that you might have not installed the O2 sensor correctly, or possibly damaged it somehow during the initial install. That's the only thing that is down there (that I can think of) that might cause your problem. Try unplugging the battery and touching the +/- terminals together for 5 seconds. See if this helps. (you can also try the ECU reset dance if you like)...

301-bhp!!! ...and growing!

 

try over at my350z.com, it happens quite a lot. there is some guy that makes O2 simulators to give the ecu what its looking for.

good luck

 

try over at my350z.com, it happens quite a lot. there is some guy that makes O2 simulators to give the ecu what its looking for.

good luck

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

you might have not installed the O2 sensor correctly

<hr></blockquote>

Correctly? You just unscrew them from the old cats and screw them into the new cats? Am I missing something? I def did not damage them. Please elaborate.

2 G or NOT 2 G, there is no question!

Injen SES, Kinetix cats, K&N Typhoon, 19" PIAA Super Rozza's (19x9 & 19x10)

 

Geo,

Thanks for the info. I install them first, then fired her up. I'll try the quick +/- touch and see if that fixes it. I might also go with the TS ECU upgrade now that I have all of these mods.

2 G or NOT 2 G, there is no question!

Injen SES, Kinetix cats, K&N Typhoon, 19" PIAA Super Rozza's (19x9 & 19x10)

 

If you have access to an OBDII scanner you can hook it up to see exactly what code it is throwing. This will tell you if it's the O2 sensors or not. Good luck.

04' G35S 6MT Ivory Pearl, Willow, Premium

 

Now you know what the SES is in Injen SES exhaust. You mean it isn't supposed to do that? Sorry to hear that, but it sound easily fixable.

F.Y.A.

 

If you do the quick reset method (which WILL clear the CES) and it comes back, then the O2 sensor was damaged, there is NO other possibility (unless something else went wrong coincidentally).

Gurgen

 

I did the 12 hours disconnect last night and drove about 30 miles this morning and it came back on. DARN! Guess I'll have to look into O2 sensors.

Thanks for the info...

2 G or NOT 2 G, there is no question!

Injen SES, Kinetix cats, K&N Typhoon, 19" PIAA Super Rozza's (19x9 & 19x10)

 

Get a hold of a code reader and confirm that it's the O2 sensors. Code readers are actually a good investment for this reason, and can save you some money if you don't have to replace a part that you're not certain is the problem.

<font color=blue>[i]GroundingGear™ Equipped </font color=blue>

 

http://www.nology.com/products

$350 is tempting. Provides A/F and timing info as well, not to mention actual real time air mass measurement.

If someone really wanted to know if a mod did something, this product would be the way to go. It blows my mind that after market mod vendors don't use these more.

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5

 

Catatafsh

Let me save you some money. First of all - this will NOT work with our car It does not work wth the CAN protocol cars (such as our cars). Look in the manual pdf. - NIssan 350Z is excluded. Otherwise, the A/F ratio that it will be providing is worthless - it's narrow band so the only time it is accurate (somewhat at that) is near stoich and above (so 14.7+). this is all the car needs to achive a 14.7 mixture in closed loop mode (cruising). for tuning you need a temperature-compensated/calibrated A/F that will give accurate measurements (+-0.1). The one above will be jumping around to +/-0.5 (worthless).

The readout of the MAF sensor could be useful - but do you really need it - prolly not as you are going to buy the pop-charger or smth and be done with it. It maybe worth it for turbo cars. Timing is good too. If you want a small device thta will read those vital numbers (RPM, COOLANT TEMP, MAF voltage, Timing) just call TechnoSquare and get the Techtom small obd-ii scanner for OUR cars (CAN protcol). It ain't pretty, but for diagnostic/tuning purposes, it's ok - and it's about $150-160 i believe (don't quote me).

Any device that promises to just "plug-in" and give you an A/F measurement is utter waste of money - you need a wideband sensor with a 5v output to a 5v wideband display. There are only a few out there, and the nicest and most cost-effective one is the AEM UEGO wideband display - can be had for $430-$520.

K, you owe me a drink (j/k)

Gurgen

BTW - if you wat a scanner tool, there are some out there for basic CEL checking/clearing for as low as $115 (son't know brands : auto--something)



<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gurgenpb on 06/02/04 12:05 PM.</EM></FONT></P>