im seriously about ready to sell this PITA.
#16
01-17-2009, 01:33 PM
a catalyst effiency code will not always be a bad cat, that code is diagnosed via a graphing and a change in the time and speed in the data monitor function of Consult II, you must monitor the switching frequency of the front and back and then count the cycles on the graph to tell you if its the car or the o2, if you have a bad o2 sensor post cat then guess what it will lead you to believe that the cat is bad but it really isn't lazy, open, shorted dosn't matter will still lead you to a bad cat.
They need to replace that wide band with a narrow band, we use 4 wire o2's int he rear and 5 or 6 wire in the front, if they connected it with but connectors that means they probably hacked the harness all up and your lucky they arn't going to charge you for an EGI harness but most likley the downstream o2 sensor plug and a new o2 sensor + labor to install it and repin that said connector that is damanged from being hacked up. It seems like a fair charge indeed.
In reading this entire thread i'm not totally sure that the dealer is screwing him over, i didn't "read" the whole thing more like skimmed and scanned it, but you do realize there are procedures in place for the dealer to follow so they don't get burned either, or send misinformation to the customer.
Personally i would like to see some pictures of the wiring and such and what they are saying is bad being an infiniti tech myself and having delt with many issues similar to this on both modified and stock vehicles or modfied vehciles that have been turned back to "stock" and have all kinds of little quirks to them or things that just don't work correctly or don't work at all.
Well i would like to reinterate what i said about having them do a catalyst efficeny test after the o2 sensor and wiring replacement, also i would like to know the static voltages of all o2's are theyc omparing it to bank 2? also just becuase your voltage is good dosn't mean the sensor is bad.
Again hope i brought some insight to this thread.
They need to replace that wide band with a narrow band, we use 4 wire o2's int he rear and 5 or 6 wire in the front, if they connected it with but connectors that means they probably hacked the harness all up and your lucky they arn't going to charge you for an EGI harness but most likley the downstream o2 sensor plug and a new o2 sensor + labor to install it and repin that said connector that is damanged from being hacked up. It seems like a fair charge indeed.
In reading this entire thread i'm not totally sure that the dealer is screwing him over, i didn't "read" the whole thing more like skimmed and scanned it, but you do realize there are procedures in place for the dealer to follow so they don't get burned either, or send misinformation to the customer.
Personally i would like to see some pictures of the wiring and such and what they are saying is bad being an infiniti tech myself and having delt with many issues similar to this on both modified and stock vehicles or modfied vehciles that have been turned back to "stock" and have all kinds of little quirks to them or things that just don't work correctly or don't work at all.
Well i would like to reinterate what i said about having them do a catalyst efficeny test after the o2 sensor and wiring replacement, also i would like to know the static voltages of all o2's are theyc omparing it to bank 2? also just becuase your voltage is good dosn't mean the sensor is bad.
Again hope i brought some insight to this thread.
#17
01-19-2009, 10:19 PM
they are oem cats on there....
so as of now, dealer charged me 400 and changed the rear o2. they said it was a wideband sensor wired into the stock harness. (luckily, whoever did it cut the plug off the old sensor, so they just had to unplug it and plug the new one in.) my mom talked to the service mananger, and he said that working on this car and talking to us has been a "waste of his time" and he doesnt want to see the car at the dealer anymore. when she finally got through to the owner, he went on what the SM said and told us that there was no way the car could have run on the sensor how it did, and said that i was a liar and i had changed it.
his reasoning for the long delay was it took them that long to look at the car and try to see what had been changed. i was also told that the issue with my replacement radio not holding EQ settings was becuse someone messed with the wiring harness. however they finally aggreed to change the headunit, but thats all and the did not want the car there, they no longer want to perform service on it.
as of now, i got the car back and the CEL hasnt gone on yet. when they tell me ill bring in the car for the radio swap, and then be done.
ps- when i saw the car after they delieverd it, they washed it and scratched/marked all my paint, and my front bumper was hanging loose and sticking out below the clearcorner. and as for readings, they never seem to have them, theyre thrown out
so as of now, dealer charged me 400 and changed the rear o2. they said it was a wideband sensor wired into the stock harness. (luckily, whoever did it cut the plug off the old sensor, so they just had to unplug it and plug the new one in.) my mom talked to the service mananger, and he said that working on this car and talking to us has been a "waste of his time" and he doesnt want to see the car at the dealer anymore. when she finally got through to the owner, he went on what the SM said and told us that there was no way the car could have run on the sensor how it did, and said that i was a liar and i had changed it.
his reasoning for the long delay was it took them that long to look at the car and try to see what had been changed. i was also told that the issue with my replacement radio not holding EQ settings was becuse someone messed with the wiring harness. however they finally aggreed to change the headunit, but thats all and the did not want the car there, they no longer want to perform service on it.
as of now, i got the car back and the CEL hasnt gone on yet. when they tell me ill bring in the car for the radio swap, and then be done.
ps- when i saw the car after they delieverd it, they washed it and scratched/marked all my paint, and my front bumper was hanging loose and sticking out below the clearcorner. and as for readings, they never seem to have them, theyre thrown out
#18
01-19-2009, 10:24 PM
they need to check your grounds for the a/f ratio sensors both bank 1 and 2 they are the ECM grounds, located behind the gauge cluster and behind the glove box.
Bank 1 lean maybe a mass air sensor, but these things don't go that often and normally there is a contributing factor to it, like when someone puts in a factory a/f suffix 0Z000 they have mass amounts of oil on them and they need to have the excess oil blown off of them before install.
What are your alphas? for sure from CII data monitor, thats a must, also what are they looking at to diagnose the maf? whats your calculated load in grams per second. Whats the MAF voltage, whats the A/F ratio sensor B1 voltage? whats the sensor 2 voltage. Older cars i have seen the MAF be the cause of that code, but BOTH banks are lean, not only 1, if there is 1 bank being lean only 1 bank, 110%+ on the alphas its not your mass air sensor. Also even if the test pipes were on it would give you a catalyst efficency code which is p0420 or p0430, which works off of switching frequency from your 1st to 2nd o2 sensor.
A side note about your radio, normally it only takes us 3-4 days to get them and i am here on the east coast, also....radios normally take out the radio not the HVAC controls as well that normally is a printed circut board issue.
I hope i was of some assistance.
Bank 1 lean maybe a mass air sensor, but these things don't go that often and normally there is a contributing factor to it, like when someone puts in a factory a/f suffix 0Z000 they have mass amounts of oil on them and they need to have the excess oil blown off of them before install.
What are your alphas? for sure from CII data monitor, thats a must, also what are they looking at to diagnose the maf? whats your calculated load in grams per second. Whats the MAF voltage, whats the A/F ratio sensor B1 voltage? whats the sensor 2 voltage. Older cars i have seen the MAF be the cause of that code, but BOTH banks are lean, not only 1, if there is 1 bank being lean only 1 bank, 110%+ on the alphas its not your mass air sensor. Also even if the test pipes were on it would give you a catalyst efficency code which is p0420 or p0430, which works off of switching frequency from your 1st to 2nd o2 sensor.
A side note about your radio, normally it only takes us 3-4 days to get them and i am here on the east coast, also....radios normally take out the radio not the HVAC controls as well that normally is a printed circut board issue.
I hope i was of some assistance.
Nerd ALERT!
J/k - good info.
#19
01-19-2009, 10:31 PM
Damn man, sounds like the previous owner really messed up the car and unloaded it on an unsuspecting buyer. So sorry to hear this, there is always an inherent risk in buying a modified car. I would never do it, personally. I bought my G35 off lease a year ago and for the exception of a broken camshaft sensor that left me stranded, it's been pretty reliable (knock on wood). But overall these cars are not as reliable as Hondas or Toyotas. I take it as the price we pay for driving something slightly more exciting.
I'm not technically inclined when it comes to cars, but my best advice would be to take off all the aftermarket parts, replace them with OEM, and get rid of the car asap. May as well cut your losses and run at this point.
I'm not technically inclined when it comes to cars, but my best advice would be to take off all the aftermarket parts, replace them with OEM, and get rid of the car asap. May as well cut your losses and run at this point.
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