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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #91  
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From: ɐʍ 'ǝlʇʇɐǝs
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This was post 19. Why didn't Mike acknowledge this post?

Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well you could take that valve cover off and maybe see something obvious.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
If you noticed, he took our opinions / advice and DID do this diy. Something I'm not sure he would have done otherwise.

And if you didn't notice, ANOTHER member has benefited from the thread as countless others have just from reading an interesting diagnosis. So if he took your advice, the rest of this thread wouldn't be here for the benefit of others.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by tcturbo76
The retainer is intact. I cant beleive it, but it is. We are going to charge the cylinder with air. We have a tool to do this with, but have to make an extension so it will go deep enough.

It isnt buttoned up yet. I'm waiting for a spring. A spring... Should I change the whole set while I have it apart. It makes me nervous installing one new spring. Advice?
Off hand, I'd say no. Unless the service manual says to only replace the valve springs in sets. Or consult Nissan service dept?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 06:58 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Can you detail exactly how that took prevents the valve from dropping down into the cylinder? I see how it compresses the retainer down so you an access the locking parts but that's it?

did you bother to read the link or just look at the picture you copied?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
This was post 19. Why didn't Mike acknowledge this post?
um, no... those quotes you posted were not #19.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:08 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by tcturbo76
The retainer is intact. I cant beleive it, but it is. We are going to charge the cylinder with air. We have a tool to do this with, but have to make an extension so it will go deep enough.

It isnt buttoned up yet. I'm waiting for a spring. A spring... Should I change the whole set while I have it apart. It makes me nervous installing one new spring. Advice?
for peace of mind you might consider (all) upgraded springs (if you want to spend 250 or so just for peace of mind)... but I wonder how the spring failed in the first place? Do you stay in real high rmps for long periods? What mods (if any do you have?)... if you are stock, I would have had Nissan take a look because this is something that shouldnt happen.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by OCG35
did you bother to read the link or just look at the picture you copied?
Yup. Since you're the one that suggested it as a direct reply to the problem of keeping the valve up, I assume YOU have the answer.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:12 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by OCG35
um, no... those quotes you posted were not #19.
Okay Mike. Post # whatever.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Yup. Since you're the one that suggested it as a direct reply to the problem of keeping the valve up, I assume YOU have the answer.
You had a question, I provided a solution.

If you want to squabble about it, it will have to be another time – I’ve been busy today (and still am)…

I figured your question wasn’t even legit because I know you have zero interests in ever removing a valve spring… so I don’t even know why I bothered to provide you with the source… maybe someone else will find it helpful without the myriad of banter that you seem to thrive on.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #99  
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Exactly how is that a solution? The problem addressed wasn't being able to access the little retainers, it was how to keep the valve from dropping down.

Does this little tool help? Yeah sure. Does it address the specific problem of keeping the valve up during the process? Not from what I see. But I'm sure you can explain it.

BTW. The tool is USED for valve spring replacement. From what I read, it doesn't specifically STATE it has the ability to keep the valve up during the process. Only that it gives the user the benefit of having both hands to grab the retainers that hold the valve spring top assembly in place. BUT I could certainly be incorrect.
 

Last edited by Jeff92se; Apr 21, 2009 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:31 PM
  #100  
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if it were me, id replace all the springs while i had it open but thats just me. that way there is a level playing field in there.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #101  
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Jeff, post #85 answered your initial question. And I don’t even know why I bothered with that… I really don’t have time to waste on you anymore – Dave is already on ignore…

Re-read post 85 (it has your question and answer all in one post)… anything beyond that is of no interest to me whatsoever.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #102  
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Post #85 was just a link to the tool. Which was "apparently" a reply to the question of keeping the valve spring up. Which TO ME, this tool does not do. Which is why I'm asking YOU to explain how it accomplishes that. Because I don't see it.

So no, it answers absolutely nothing regarding the specific problem of keeping the valve from dropping into the cylinder. But I could be wrong. Maybe it DOES keep the valve from dropping. I just need someone to explain how this tool does that. Are you the one to do that? Apparently not.

Here is the ENTIRE question: Answering a snippet of a question doesn't answer anything. Nor does it do anyone any good.
The question now is "how to you replace the spring w/o having to remove the head. Hopefully you can use some type of compressed air or something to keep the valve up while you replace the spring. Hell replacing the spring might be easier than finding the right bucket shim size.
If that tool allows one to perform the procedure w/o removing the head, then you should be able to answer how it resolves the problem of keeping the valve from dropping. Because I don't see how one could do this procedure W/O addressing this. Correct?
 

Last edited by Jeff92se; Apr 22, 2009 at 02:02 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 02:28 PM
  #103  
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50-75psi of air in the cylinder keeps the valve closed (in the up position therefore not allowing it to drop down)… (if you bothered to read the link it would have answered your question but you like to play games instead).

Your primary question had nothing to do with the valve not dropping in – you were concerned about not being able to remove the spring with the heads bolted on. That’s why I linked the source for you.

Jeff – your games take too much of my time. You will never be doing this project anyway – so stop with your futile garble.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #104  
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Jeff,

Here's the instructions for the JWT valve spring removal tool on a VQ35. To answer your question, you use air to keep the valve up. It's quite a nice tool.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...MOVER_INST.pdf
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by OCG35
You will never be doing this project anyway – so stop with your futile garble.
Then put him on ignore as well and save us the headache.
 
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