I've dynoed on two DynoJets and one DynaPack. The DynaPack and one of the DynoJets are extremely similar and the other DynoJet reads a bit high IMO.

I'm getting the logger by Digimoto (www.digimoto.com). They support ISO--dont' know about CAN.

--Steve

 

Ahh yes, I've also looked at the Digimoto. How's the data sampling rate? AutoTap was pathetically slow and hardly real-time.


Clint (THX723)

 

This thread has made my brain itch...

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

Excellent point Neff, OK move over thread hijackers and lets get back to ME. I talked to my dyno guy to day and found out what he did on the post plenum runs. He pulled the o2 sensor off on the drivers side and put the wide band AF sensor from the dyno in that bung and he just let the o2 sensor hang. He has only done 2 g 35s and I was the second and that's the way he has done AF for cars albeit he describes them as "older". Who knows what the ECU tried to do with that set up and makes me wonder about all my post plenum results. So back to my high school chemistry days where all testing needs to be identical with only one variable changing...the plenum.. I'm back on the dyno Thursday to do just straight power and torque runs like I did on the 1st session pre plenum. No AF, sorry Clint . If these runs aren't significantly better than what I posted I'm going go in another direction. As of now don't know what that is :/.

So before I go back into this most complex world of tuning and throw more good money (although heavily discounted now) at dyno runs. I want to clear up some things:

1) He did the first run in 4th so I need to do this run in 4th although I have heard some folk recommend 3rd for an AT.
2) He is just going through the gears easily he is not WOT at each shift so I think that is OK too.

I have 2 days and I do this at 5pm EDT on Thurs so if I'm missing something on how to do a straight power and torque dyno on a dyno jet let me know ASAP......Rod

03 5AT-Premium-Aero-Tire & Wheel Pkg-Splash-Z tube-K&N Filter-32% Tint-10 wire Grounding Gear-Crawford Plenum Ver 5

 

Rod,
Apologies for the thread hijacking ... blame it on Gurgen instead (just because ... hehe). 4th gear pull for the G35 AT model is ideal, so you're fine there. Have the dyno tech ramp up enough speed to get into 4th gear manumanic mode. As he approaches 3500 he could start to floor her and go completely WOT by 4000rpm. Good luck with the run and hope to see you make more power this time around.


Clint (THX723)

 

4th gear is important. A 3rd gear run compared to a 4th gear run will produce different results with in 3-5 rwhp. We saw this at the Central FL Dyno Day.

Dabomb ran in 4th gear, and then ran in 3rd gear. His 3rd gear numbers were higher than the 4th gear numbers. Since every automatic after his was going to be run in 3rd gear (the shop didn't like having the dyno drum go ~140 mph) he stuck with the slightly higher 3rd gear run, as he should have for comparison purposes.

4th gear is your 1:1 gear, so you'll definitely want to do the 4th gear comparison.

Also, if you don't see exactly what you hope to on the dyno, may I suggest either straight pipes or high flow cats as your very next mod. Re-dyno and I bet you'll see more than what you will be expecting. (Remember I got ~17rwhp from intake, plenum and cats). I was really happy as I bet you would be.

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

Neff, really appreciate the advice....Rod

03 5AT-Premium-Aero-Tire & Wheel Pkg-Splash-Z tube-K&N Filter-32% Tint-10 wire Grounding Gear-Crawford Plenum Ver 5

 

Remember though, in 4th at redline, your tires are spinning a whole lot faster than in 3rd. If something goes wrong, and it might, ask Neff, you may have more of an issue on your hands than worrying about 5 Hp at 6,500 rpm.

Everything is relative.

2004 G35C 6MT Black. Killer.

 

I am going for my dyno soon (just put kinetix cats in).

how are they suppose to hook up the O2 sensors to get an accurate reading WITHOUT messing up the ecu?

I want to get as accurate an A/F reading as possible and accurate dyno run also.
thanks guys

 

Rod, here are my $0.02

4th gear runs are good for comparison purposes to the MT guys. I have done both 3rd and 4th gear pulls on my car many times, and it was ALWAYS higher by ~2.x-3.x in 3rd gear; however, consistency was always there.

As far as the 02 bung is concerned; i would try the follwoing next time you are there:
1. do a run w/o an a/f ratio reading
2. then have the guy do the same thing he did, but on the passenger side. The #2 bank (pass side bank) of sensors are for backup, and are used in the event of #1 bank sensor malfunction.
3. if the hp/tq numbers do not change appreciably,a nd your a/f looks considerably different from your other uns (where the d-side header bung was used), then you can reasonably safely conclude that those runs were somehow affected by the o2 sensor being out and flopping about in ambient air.

I would also suggest doing an ECU reset, but leave that for next time; this way you comparison to the previous runs will be more valid.

Gurgen

 

If we are talking about a 6mt, 5th gear is 1:1 not 4th gear.

Gear Ratio 1st: 3.79 :1
Gear Ratio 2nd: 2.32 :1
Gear Ratio 3rd: 1.62 :1
Gear Ratio 4th: 1.27 :1
Gear Ratio 5th: 1.00 :1
Gear Ratio 6th: 0.79 :1
Final drive ratio: 3.54 :1

2004 Infiniti G35S, 6MT, Premium, Sport, DP
Mods: JDM Clears, 20% tint, Z-tube, K&N Drop In
Track: 14.32 at 98.79 mph 2.2032 60ft
http://www.g35world.com<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by G35_TX on 07/07/04 06:11 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

G35_TX,

The person who started the thread, Rod, has a 5AT. Refer to his sig. in his initial post.

DED, your comments...
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Remember though, in 4th at redline, your tires are spinning a whole lot faster than in 3rd. If something goes wrong, and it might, ask Neff, you may have more of an issue on your hands than worrying about 5 Hp at 6,500 rpm.

Everything is relative.


<hr></blockquote>
are not only valid, but worthy of mentioning. There are a couple of other things worth mentioning as well (I've gotten the unofficial OK from Daniel if I'm brief). Titan Motorsports was a bunch of hacks. They placed the "straps" on our G's in places where they shouldn't have. They also blew up someone's engine the same day they did our dyno runs; yes it was one of our own guys with the TT setup. That shop didn't know what they were doing and it showed. (Especially when one of the straps on my car broke and the car slid sideways a couple of inches on the dyno drum at over 100 mph). Thank GOD the other couple of straps (or tie downs) held.

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

OK people I’m back with DATA. Thanks Clint, Neff, Gurgen, DED for the advice to my last post. As you can see above the answer to the question: “Does hanging the driver’s O2 sensor in the air while testing for AF, screw up the ECU enough to mess up your power and torque results/” …is NO. Run 10 is today’s run in 4th with no AF sensors anywhere on the car. Run 6 was last weeks run with the AF sensor in the drivers side O2 sensor well with the sensor hanging in the air under the car.

A summary:
All Runs in 4th gear same driver (dyno tech), same dyno

Session 1 With z tube, K&N filter, 10 Wire Grounding Gear
Run RWHP Torque
001 224.1 224.5
002 225.7 225.8
003 228.1 223.1

Session 2 With Crawford Plenum and the above mods AF sensor in the Driver’s side O2 sensor
Run RWHP Torque
004 233.9 238.2
005 232.0 229.6
006 231.2 231.1
007 229.7 226.3

Session 3 With Crawford Plenum and the above mods NO AF testing
Run RWHP Torque
008 Void Void
009 230.7 237.2
010 232.8 246.2
011 234.4 241.6

Run 8 was a start/stop to check the brake. As usual, in each session I have thrown out the high and the low and have used the middle runs to compare sessions. See next post.


03 5AT-Premium-Aero-Tire & Wheel Pkg-Splash-Z tube-K&N Filter-32% Tint-10 wire Grounding Gear-Crawford Plenum Ver 5

295299-G35 014.jpg

 

Run 010 is today’s middle value and run 002 is 2 weeks ago and the only difference is the Crawford plenum.

The bottom line for me:
1) The car feels great, idles great, sounds mean, feels more torquey and powerful with the Crawford plenum.
2) The dynos show the gains to be relatively small and in some parts of the band no gain at all.
3) In order to maximize the plenum it seems you must do the ECU reflash and/or replace the cats.

All opinions welcome…..Rod


03 5AT-Premium-Aero-Tire & Wheel Pkg-Splash-Z tube-K&N Filter-32% Tint-10 wire Grounding Gear-Crawford Plenum Ver 5

295301-G35 013.jpg

 

Thanks for the data Rod. It's good to know that it did not affect the outcome ... for the short term at least.

I will have my own pre-post plenum dyno data in a couple of weeks. I'll also be sharing my data then.

Cheers,

Clint (THX723)