how is it?? is it worth the 250 bucks? can water get in it?? or should i jus go with the jwt popcharger/z-tube? any input would be greatly appreciated!!

 

I have it. Stillen has dropped the price to around $180 I
believe. It sits at the same level as the OEM air box, so
water is NOT an issue. I love mine. I took it off to clean it
and replaced it with my OEM box with the K&N drop in filter.
After 1 week, I missed the Stillen so much that I put it back
on.

2003 TwBlue 5AT Sedan, sunroof,
Graphite Leather, splashguards, HKS exhaust,
14 wire Grounding kit, 350Z duct, Stillen CAI
Underbody rear diffusers, Drilled alum pedals

 

cato,
What performance difference did you notice with the Stillen?

'04 6MT coupe

 

Stillen CLAIMS 11 HP at 6000 rpm. Can you really feel 11
HP on a 260 HP auto? The sound is so addictive, when I
switched back to my OEM box with K&N panel filter, I
didn't feel like I lost power. But I sure did miss the sound
the Stillen made. I can't live without it.

2003 TwBlue 5AT Sedan, sunroof,
Graphite Leather, splashguards, HKS exhaust,
14 wire Grounding kit, 350Z duct, Stillen CAI
Underbody rear diffusers, Drilled alum pedals

 

DaveO has made some comments that you should read on his Stillen intake, run a search under his name in this section of the board.

He recently ran a test where he switched back to the oem setup to run a test, he mentioned if I recall right, that he felt like he lost power vs the Stillen.

DaveO has also done research on actual intake air temps that should be looked at as well regarding the popcharger, Stillen and oem.

"All that's necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for enough good men to do nothing.”
Edmund Burke

G35 6mt

 

It's in this thread.... https://g35driver.com/forums/showfla...sed&sb=5&part=

'04 6MT coupe

 

I have the box and it sucks. Lost hp & tq on the dyno but it sounds really mean. If I still had my stock box I would put it back on but that is a long story and who claimed it was theirs was suprising.

03.5 Sedan/B.Sil/Prem/Wntr/Aero/Tint/Rims/Hotchkis Sways--WHERE ARE OUR PARTS!
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

While all of the work of DaveO and others is informative, it leaves me with more questions than answers. I left that thread with no impression that the freer flowing intake pulls more hot air into the engine.

I may seem off base to some here, but that ascertion seems very counter intuitive. Afterall, it takes a flow of cooler (ambient) air to cool down a heated intake.

All in all, if an intake is freer flowing, provides adequate filtration, doesn't mess with the MAF (either by turbulence or oil residue) and doesn't screw up the ECM's interpretation of what's going on, then it should be a good thing.

I still am of the opinion that there is little if any to be gained from changing the intake except for a sound difference, which could be enough alone for me to buy. The stock intake track seems pretty damn good on these cars. Even on my turbo Audi, there isn't much (if anything) to be gained from changing the paper filter to an aftermarket one. And that car pulls in from the turbos almost 2 atmospheric pressures. A difference should have been noted there if anywhere.

The real test is gallons per second, not temperature readings, in my opinion. The temperature of the intake charge is due to ambient conditions, the circumstances leading up to the time of measuring the temps, and to a lesser degree with this car, the turbulence of the air as a consequence of the design of the intake path.

I have a hard time believing that the MAF is taxed or reaching it's max capacity with changing the air filter, as I've read lately in some posts. Could be the case, but if it is that's a horrible design. Afterall these cars, as any, are designed to operate at all kinds of temperatures and levels of barometric pressure. There are tolerances taken into account for that.

In summary, I would buy an aftermarket intake for sound reasons alone. Although i understand the desire to tweak every hp out of an engine. I think as long as you get into one that allows for water to bypass, has adequate filtration, you don't overoil the filter, you regularly clean the filter, and is properly insulated from the engine bay, then you should be ok.

The thing that conceptually does not appeal to me about the JWT setup is the box is gone, which provides insulation from the engine heat, replaced with a heat shield, which does not insulate from the heat of the engine bay. Unless you're going at some considerable speed, your intake temps should be higher, especially in city driving or low speed highway driving.

Just my $.02.

 

winw,

Interesting comments!

How many dollars, gallons and hours did you spend to come up with your conclusions?

I can assure you that I've spent a bunch of time and money to test several intake system combinations under various driving conditions. I can also assure you that I'm real pleased with the added performance from my current intake setup... even though it doesn't support your conclusions. By the way, my G-Tech Comp Pro is also very happy.

I guess I need to thank you since you've help me decide that it's just not worth the effort to share future test results with the forum members... since my test results are obviously wrong.

In the future I'll keep any similar test findings to myself and a few good friends.



DaveO
03 G35 AT Sedan / DP / Willow / Premium / Sport / Aero / Mods

 

Dave, with the hugely varied opinions on intake systems, and with so many people entrenched into their respective camps, your bound to get people that may not see your testing like we think it should be received. Do not take that sort of thing the wrong way, don't let anyone here get under your skin. What you did is immeasurable at sweeping away the haze of well intended opinions and fiction with more tangible facts to allow people to make better informed decision's. Not every ear will take to your work, that's just the way forums are.

I for one appreciate your efforts and ask that you make similar efforts in the future for our forum members. You've done work on a subject that needs such efforts desperately.

"All that's necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for enough good men to do nothing.”
Edmund Burke

G35 6mt

 

I've got the z tube and the airbox with some minor mods to it. I have been watching the air intake temp on my techtom thing and have been amazed at how well my setup works. I noticed that when the car is warmed up on a hot day that the intake temp can be 140. It takes about one full 1/2 throttle up to highway speed acceleration run to get air intake temp as cool as it will ever be..which is 15 or so degrees higher than ambient outside temp on a 90 degree day with a hot car. Not remembering DaveO's time from the thread this started in.. but that tells me that my setup gets cold air fast and furiously! It may be that my hood liner is helping to seal hot air from the box. I'm very happy with these results.

...hang in there DaveO and stick around these parts

2003.5 DP 5AT Sedan (E-thing but Nav)
14.2 @ 97.18
Z-Tube
K&N Drop In & Airbox Mod
10 Wire Hyper-Ground
Crawford Plenum (V4)
UR Crank Pulley
Polk EX-3500 Tweeters/Shock Sensor/H-Liner
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by SixFive on 07/07/04 05:19 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

DaveO, I wasn't bashing you at all, that wasn't my intention. I was replying to the post that one should check out the cited post, which I did.

I wasn't suggesting your time and efforts are wasted as it seems that is the way you took my comments. If I came off that way, I apologize. I welcome any and all contributions. I was merely giving my perspective on changing the intakes on a NA car which, imo, has a decent OEM design to begin with.

 

And to clarify my comments regarding the JWT setup, my only concern, which is just an observation, is that the heat from the engine could heat the intake air under city driving or stop and go traffic, as compared to other setups where there is an enclosed box, such as the Stillen or OEM.