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headers or not?

Old Jul 31, 2004 | 08:53 AM
  #1  
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headers or not?

I currently have Stillen CAI, Z - tube,TS ECU reflash, RT cats and Stillen full exhaust. Works great over 3k rpm, but still missing the low end torque that I would like. Thinking about adding headers and was curious if anyone had a set up like this or any ideas on what headers would do to exhaust sound level, and would they help increase torque/pedal response under 3k rpm. Any ideas on what would? Thanks

 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 11:35 AM
  #2  
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Re: headers or not?

All torque increases at low [below the torque peak rpm] must come from increased cylinder filling or increased compression pressure. Since almost none of the oem restrictions have any measureable restiction below this rpm, you are out of luck with any external mod.

There are physical laws concerning compression pressure [BMEP] and piston bore size that limit torque per liter to under 80 lb/feet per liter below the torque peak rpm with pump gasoline.

Since Nitrous creates the most added pressure at low rpms it is usually used..............A 50 HP shot [referenced to 6,000 rpm] yields 44 lb/ft ast 6,000 THUS 88 lb/ft at 3,000 rpm and 132 lb/ft at 2,000 rpm...........almost never engaged below 3000 rpm due to rod piston stresses.

 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 11:52 AM
  #3  
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Re: headers or not?

Not knowing how much you want to increase low rpm torque but Nitrous is very efficient [amount used/cost] compared to a positive displacement [Eaton type] supercharger.

Since you are under the torque peak rpm in first gear for so short a time............0>25-27 mph ~~ 2.5 seconds.

A 1.0 G accceleration is 16 feet in the first second and 48 feet in 2nd second..............changing the 60 foot time is hard by more than 0.1-0.2 seconds even with Nitrous.......too much and the tires spin raising your time.

Or are you trying to just improve low rpm acceleration in high gears --- a different situation?........then you just downshift.

What? Why? How many thousand can you spend?

 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 12:36 PM
  #4  
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Re: headers or not?

Hey Q, reliability wise, how safe is running a fifty shot and what would the most reliable setup be? I know that you've discussed it before, but I have to admit that some of those threads can get over my head pretty fast.

Ivory Coupe 5AT
Z tube, K&N drop in.
Crawford Plenum and Fujitsubo Exhaust soon to come...
 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 05:00 PM
  #5  
iLLG35's Avatar
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Re: headers or not?

Q45, why are you so smart =) Also, if you want some low end without the stock lag when stomping on the pedal, go for the UR racing pullies, helps a lot!!


Martin
2003.5 BS G35
Nismo Aero/Sport Package
Injen CAI
B+G Springs
ADR M-Classic 19's..

 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 06:17 PM
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Re: headers or not?

IMO, "or not".

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>
 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 08:59 PM
  #7  
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Re: headers or not?


adding to what Q said, why do you more kick under 3000rpm? if you are not racing, 1,2,3rd gears have plenty power down there. and if you are in 4th,5th,6th and want to boot it, why not just down shift.

anyway, I would highly recommend a plenum for your next mod. you will see a lot of difference considering you have all those other goodies already. thou it will not give alot < 3000rpm, it should theoretically increase power everywhere by evening out the intake air.





<font color=blue> 2004 6MT Coupe </font color=blue>
 
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 11:19 PM
  #8  
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Re: headers or not?

If you're not going to go Turbo, then get headers.

If you plan on going Turbo in the future, don't bother w/ the headers. Get a Plenum, Torque Converter, Crank Pulley, Clutch & Flywheel. One of those, or several or all will be good for your car and what you need. Then later on think about Cams and other things, nitrous maybe.

 
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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 07:00 AM
  #9  
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From: Marietta, Georgia
Re: headers or not?

Nitrous can be dangerous if something goes wrong: The economy solenoids wear and become unreliable.

People don't usually spend extra for all the add on to cheapo kit EXTRAS, especially things that limit nitrous till AFTER the fuel has been added or automatic shutoffs if the fuel presssure takes a dive.
They don't buy $500 progressive control systems to pulse the solenoids till the revs come up adding undue stress and deminished reliability.

A totally safe TOP OF THE LINE [with options] system might cost $1,500-2,000 instead of the barebones $500.

Fine tuning and conservative amounts[ under 25% ~~<65 HP] will be safe...........you have to feather [pulse modulate] even that amount so as not to exceed 333 lb/ft [tranny limit in AT] at flywheel at low rpms

 
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