Hey i was wondering if any of you guys have any info on the low temp thermostat that nismo offers. Its relatively cheap and seems like a reliable investment, i was wondering what you guys thought of this, or if any of you actually have it and have a review?

Johnjunyun,

From what I understand, lowering the engine temp, even only a little, will adversely affect fuel consumption (and emissions),
It's been ill-advised on a ride that has much difficulty (on the average) making EPA estimates or even close.

For a mod that will net you only slightly lower under hood temps, and will create a host of other issues, I would say look for another mod.-- Cooler intake air would net some gains.

My $.02. g/l with the new ride.

Colin. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>

i used it on my blower coupe...

its a MUST if you go F/I, as the underhood temps escalate, and as we all know, heat is the enemy!!!

i also added samco hoses, and with the Nismo l/t, i was able to maintain ONE TICK lower on the temp gauge, regardless of the heatsoaking/traffic.....

if you arent F/I, well, i dunno really.....


SMS

Thanks a lot guys, I really needed some input about the thermostat but couldnt find any. Thats why i love this site so much, i can get full reviews and recommendations without fear of wasting my money on inferior products. Thanks for the advice.

Useing the lower temp thermostat is only part of rthe solution in lowering operating temperatures. For city use , the cooling fans will still turn on at the higher OEM setpoint. A comprehensive solution should also lower the fan set point in additin to the thermostat. This issue is often overlooked. Were you need the lower temps the most are in high soak and stop and go operation, not just hi-way driving were the fans useally do not operate. I beleive the fan set point can be changed via the ECU (at least most modern system allow this). It may be possible for TS to do so.

Yup, what he said. It doesn't do any good to have a colder thermostat, unless the fans are adjusted as well. At least in traffic. What is the factory thermostat temp anyway? 195 degrees?

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...elected=551133

You could back the Nisthermo up with an electric fan with adjustable thermostat to pull cool air from the front and shove 2500 cfm to the block..



<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gspot35 on 08/01/04 07:10 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

314439-Fan small.JPG

"Useing the lower temp thermostat is only part of rthe solution in lowering operating temperatures. For city use , the cooling fans will still turn on at the higher OEM setpoint. A comprehensive solution should also lower the fan set point in additin to the thermostat.".....



very insightful... i DID overlook this, and am glad you've brought it up!!

i wonder if consult II could be used to make the triggerpoint lower?? i know it can monitor this temp, and the trigger temp, but dont know if it can revise as such...


good point!!

eSe

The consult can turn the fans on and off manually, but normal ones don't have the ability to change the point manually. Nissan does have ones that can reprogram parameters, but the dealerships don't normally have those items on hand.

As for the lower temp thermostat, it won't help unless you live somewhere cold enough (or have enough airflow) to the point where you car normally operates right where the thermostat opens (so it's constantly opening and closing to keep it warm enough).
If the car is too cold it will run rich and possibly idle high (depending on the temp) as the ECU will always be trying to allow the car to warm up.

Here in Arizona it's hot enough to where pretty much all cars will run with the thermostat fully open as soon as they warm up to operating temperature. Having the thermostat open earlier doesn't help with cooling once warmed up to operating temp, it just means that the thermostat will open (and stay open) sooner. Your A/C will affect coolant temps and the fluctuation in the system as well....

If anyone has an aftermarket water temp gauge they know exactly what i'm referring to as you can see all of the variations that the stock gauge hides/covers up.

Justin @
EverythingG35.com
1.888.216.5328

Factory thermostat begins to open at 180F and is fully open by 195F so ideally 187.5F is the stablized temperature.

The question is not what the coolant runs but what the coolant temp sensor sees and reports to ecu.

ECU has a standard minimum temperature at which it switches programs from warm up to operating closed loop [accepting and using O2 signals to fine tune mixture]. On previous versions [90-01 thermostat opened at 176F] this was 160F and standard temperature for all diagnostic test was 176F.

There are software set points above which summer protection against overheats begins to try to limit temperature [coolant] rise by enrichening the mixture [affects fuel economy] and retarding timing to lower the combustion heat.

Lowering coolant temperature and thus lowering head temperature reduces the combustion effectiveness but it does reduce the propensity to knock at elevated temperatures.

All about BALANCE and the factory probably did their best in changing from the 176F to the 180F thermostat.
Whats important iswhere the thermostat begins to open.

At the risk of thread hijacking... Let me ask a question.

If the car has a temperature gage that measures coolant temperature at the coolant temp. sensor, how does this equate to engine oil temperature?

The reason why I'm asking is because I live in Central Florida. Every morning I start my car up (at ~5am) and head out to work. I diligently try to keep the rpm’s under or at 2000 until the car "warms up" (which takes maybe 2 minutes max).

What I want to know is; what is the correlation between the needle that measures the coolant temp sensor and the actual engine oil temperature? I've been assuming (possibly incorrectly) that once the needle tells me the coolant is warmed up, the oil is hot and ready for me to start hitting the 3-4K rpm range. Am I correct in making this assumption?

I have asked this question before on another forum, but I don't feel that I got the technically correct answer. As always, TIA.

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

No, the oil takes quite a bit longer to heat up to full operating temperature (than the coolant). However, after a few minutes of driving it should be warm enough to get on the car, in the wintertime i'd add a few more minutes if you live in a cold climate.


Justin @
EverythingG35.com
1.888.216.5328

I second this...

On my 93' v6 toyota pickup, it took ~20 minutes of steady freeway driving @ 2.5k rpm to get Amsoil s3k up to it's final operating viscocity / temperature. Outside temp average 65 deg F