Levon take it to Steve and Nima at Corner 3 Garage...they will get you all fixed up.

 

Lol, that's what 2C said. I'll see how it goes after my service and if it still has a problem I'll def take it to Corner 3.

 

I went to Autozone and apparently they don't lend out OBD II Scanners anymore. The referred me to Pep Boys and they scanned it themselves. The guy said it's only showing a code because of the test pipes. He cleared the code so I'll see if it comes up again.

I'll check in the morning to see how it fires up and I'll also check the battery voltage before turning it on. I'll have an update tomorrow.

 

Do a quick check with a volt meter on the battery resting it should be above 12 and running it should be around 14

If these check out it still does not mean you are in the clear, if you pull the battery they can check to see how many amps its outputing.

 

Yeah I already checked it tonight, it was at 12.5, but I wanna give it overnight to see if it drops anymore. It should get any lower thatn 12.2 or 12.3 IMO (if any change). I didn't check while running, but I think last I checked it at (when it had same resting voltage) it was 14.3.

 

How does the cranking amps on that battery compare to stock? It could be its lower and that is why its having more trouble starting the car...

Just some possibilities to eliminate.

 

Should be higher...depends on the seconds. 5 secs is 1200 and I think 20 or 30 secs its 900

*edit: Its 20 seconds. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1200.htm

 

It sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak or a dirty TB. Those both will cause idle to drop and if bad enough will cause it to drop low enough to make the engine die without giving it gas.

If you haven't change anything in a while I'd listen for a leak...but my guess is the TB might be dirty. I bet cleaning that will fix the idle.

Are you running O2 sensor spacers already? If not, you should run those to keep off the CEL.


*Edit*
I think I initially misread that a little. Check your fuses (under the driver kick panel). There is a fuse on the top left for ignition. That fuse being out will do exactly what is going on.

 

Yeah, I'm running a 02 sensor spacer, but I still need to get the non-fouler to make the hole smaller. Is cleaning the TB a simple task or would it be recommended to have a mechanic do it? I was wondering if it it might be the MAF sensor as well, I don't think either have been cleaned, unless it's supposed to be done at 30k, the dealer said they did the 30k service before they put the car on the lot since I bought it at 33k.

 

I'll check that fuse out right now.

*edit: checked the fuse and it's ok. Prior to starting the car voltage is 12.7 and while running its 14.5. I took out the ignition fuse and tired to start the car. The way it was struggling is a little different. The sputtering with the fuse out is consistent but the way it did it this morning and a couple days ago was more sporadic. It's been starting up normal after the incident today and it's only done it a few times this past week.

 

Although the MAF could do it, it unlikely to be your culprit all of a sudden. If you have an oil filter and had just cleaned and re-oiled it then maybe.

Cleaning the TB isn't too bad. just make sure you disconnect the battery before you disconnect the TB. remove TB, spray cleaner on a rag and rub off the residue on both sides with a rag. I wouldn't spray the fluid directly on the TB. No need to. Better safe than sorry.

Does your car not start at all?

 

Screw that, I'm not removing the TB... I had a b*tch of a time when I was gonna put on the copper ISO thermal about a year ago so I gave up since it really isnt need where I'm at.

The car does start, just has a slight issue sometimes this past week getting started, but once it starts up, it idles just fine.

 

haha

the TB isn't that bad. You could just unplug the battery. unplug the TB. move the butterfly valve and clean it gently.

You should change out the spark plugs. Most people I know at 60K have gaps in their plugs which reduce performance...but not cause starting issues.

You could have a bad ignition coil...but then it would skip during idle and misfire.

Reset your ECU yet? That could just reset things and make your worries go away. haha

 

ECU was reset some time ago, don't think I have since the test pipes. I'll try it out tomorrow. I'm definitely gonna go with some NGK Iridiums once I do the service on the car. I guess it's a good thing I couldn't get the TB out cos I didn't disconnect the battery.

 

Voltage prior to starting the car this morning ws fine, 12.5V. Started the car, didn't really seem to struggle, maybe slightly? Guess I just need to keep monitoring it and taking note of weather conditions, lapse of time, etc.