I don't think your battery is the culprit. Anything over 12V is plenty to start the car.

someone else is having a similar issue...it could be a relay problem between the fuel pump and ECM.

 

I'll search for that thread, but can you link me in case I can't find it? I was actually thinking what if it is my fuel pump.

I'm also curious if the weather being too cold can affect anything. My car sat for 5 hours and it was kinda cold when I left school last night and it sorta did it again, but not bad like before. It had more time to rest overnight, temperature was warmer, and didn't do it...definitely not electrical, that's for sure.

*Edit: found it and reading the thread right now

 

When testing the battery voltage have someone else start the car and look at the voltage for several minutes after the start. It is very possible to have a battery with a high enough voltage to start the car but the voltage drop of the start can cause issues with how it runs until the system voltage recovers.

Also as far as the engine light coming and going that is normal for some generated codes as they will stay in memory for x number of operating cycles without the same issue being present. This varies with the type of code with some staying around for something like 3 cycles, others for I think 48 cycles, etc.

Next time the light comes on keep track of how many operating cycles you have until the light goes out. This is why it can be important for some issues that bring the light on to scan the code right away so you definately had a chance of what see the cause.

Even some of the simpler scanners are of benefit in this case and cost very little. Some of the more expensive features are certainly nice to have but don't do any more in regard to simply reading codes. They sometimes tell you exactly what the code is for a particular make and model but that is something a piece of paper kept in your glove box can do as well. They may even save you money in the long run.

A loose connector may cause a problem and bring in your light and then disappear. A dealer may then find nothing and you are out the default price of his services. With a code reader you could see that it is associated with a certain sensor, you look at the sensor and the connector is loose so you make it tight.

 

Have you checked to make sure wires are secure all around ?

 

Which wires are you referring to?

 

battery, grounds, etc

 

Ah, gotcha. I'll check them out this weekend, although I have checked the battery and the wires leading to it and those seem to be fine.

It happened again this morning, temperature was fine. I recorded it with my cell phone, but it probably did not come out all that great...need to play it on a computer and see.

As for the RPM gauge, it didn't seem like it was stuttering...it remained a lil under 1k till it finally ran smoothly and gradually decreased in RPM as the engine started to warm up.

I need to find my digital camera so I can actually record it with better sound. I'll see if i can post the video as it may not be in a format that is supported by youtube or something.

 

I got my 60k done, all grounds are fine, swapped the spark plugs for NGK Iridiums and everything seemed fine, this was on Wednesday. I couldn't tell if the problem completely went away or me thinking there still might be an issue.

Friday I go to install some non-foulers for my test pipes (had adapters before and went with non-foulers since the hole is smaller for the 02 readings). I drive about half an hour. Park, get back in the car, drive again. Everything is fine. As soon as I gun it on the freeway my SES light flashes. It went for about a minute, stopped, and kept flashing again.

Then I noticed something REALLY wrong. The car seems like maybe it's misfiring? While the vehicle is stopped, idle is perfectly normal, but the car rumbles and shakes like a muscle car and going from 1-2k rpm its VERY rough. I noticed some power loss as well, it got a lil better and power loss isn't as bad, but I'm dumping fuel like crazy, about 15mpg on the freeway w/cruise control and no traffic on a flat road.

Just curious what you guys think it might be. I also clean the MAF sensor (after this issue occurring).

 

Took it pep boys to read the code and I have a misfire on cylinder #1. Mechanic thinks it's probably the coil so I gotta take the car to him when he's less busy. Hopefully that's the problem, otherwise....I dunno. Gotta wait for Monday for him to check it out.

 

could be the coil, if you need one or two I have 4 good used ones. Not sure on the miles, but I picked up a set back a while and have 4 I'm not using.

Could also be the spark plug. pull the plug out and verify that the plug looks normal. Friend just found out that his plug tip was melted funny just after he changed them a week ago. It was misfiring.

 

Turns out it was something minor. ECU needed to be reset. It's been running fine since. As for the startup issue, it seems to be fine, I just need to monitor it and verify.

 

were they Pulstar plugs?

 

Well, seems like the issue is back...not the misfire, but the engine not starting up as it should. Might get a new battery for my audio setup so who knows, maybe it IS the battery even though voltage is fine.

Might take it to my mechanic next week since this week i wont be able to.

 

What is the issue with your audio setup versus battery?

Keep in mind that when running your are running on the alternator and regardless of how high of capacity your battery may be if your alternator is not high enough in capacity to support your loads, no battery will help you.

 

Sorry, I was a little vague. I don't have an audio setup yet, I meant I would get a new battery for my audio setup that I am planning.

The alternator should be fine though, I believe it's 110A. I'll be running a pretty efficient setup so not much power is needed. About 150w per side for the components till I go with an active crossove (drop that down to about 50w per side) and about 500w for the sub. Not quite sure how much amperage I need, depends on the ones I go with, but right now its looking like 80A in total for both amps.

As for other electronics, the only thing that comes on when the vehicle turns on are my headlights and radio.