Hey Guys,

After reading all the posts regarding the "RAM AIR" setup, we decide to give it a try, please refer to the following photos and feel free to give us your opinions and feedbacks, thanks.

Regards,
Unlimited Tuning
EMail: info@unlimitedtuning.com
AIM: UnlimitedTuning
MSN: info@unlimitedtuning.com















<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by g35lin on 08/21/04 11:03 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

I cant see what the hell this is supposed to do. Does it just duct air from the lower grill into the stock box? Kind of a DIY CAI? The stock box already has a centergrill-fed cold air duct, right? That perforated cap looks too restrictive anyway. What if you pick up some leaves, or newspaper, or DunkinDonuts napkins? Then you will have a NAI (No Air Intake).

 

is this only for the coupe??

Ed



2003 Transport V35SKYLINE. Team Transport! www.teamtransport.org

 

That piece of plastic looks very familiar.... I got my accent light installed there. Only problem I see is that if the air pressure from the stock airbox inlet is higher than what is generated by this CAI, air will actually escape into this duct... resulting in loss of air going into the engine.


CPV35 G35C Maliblue

 

This looks similar to the "Gismo" from the E46M3 world. Slightly different application/location, but similar none-the-less.

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

Hopefully you didn't loose more than 2-5% power with your modification.

In order to gain pressure the area of the inlet must be 10 times the area of the MAF and smoothly tapered down [funnel] and fully exposed to the air stream assumming you are trying for some speed under 120 mph.

A 2 foot 3" diameter smooth pipe has more restiction than oem stock air filter. A flexible corregated pipe is much much worse.

The oem air box opening is located at the highest pressure gradient........other than having a special ram air hood built.

 

Ram air hood... now that's an interesting idea...

Ivory Coupe 5AT
Z tube, K&N drop in.
Fujitsubo Y pipe...

 

Where the heck does the air go to, the oem filter box? Is this a supplimental system in addition to the oem intlet system?

Interesting idea, but it need's more work to be fully rationalized.

Your in a high pressure zone, but the air has to make a slight bend to get to your inlet, which need's to increase in size and not have the screen in front of it. Keep in mind that the high pressure area on the oem intake isn't even 1/2" tall, that's the distance from the top grill slit to the hood lip, that's it. I support the logic that the oem intake is well designed however.

Your best bet it to use this duct http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product and place it forward and more towards the center. Make a simple bracket that use's the push pin holes ment for that plastic panel your inlet is located at to secure it. You'll also want to have a mandrel aluminum tube bent to go from their to route through the fender wheel well.

Again, I do support the logic that the oem intake is very well designed. You would do well to bring to market your metal upper intake tube idea. Do away with the Z-tube's flex section and do away with how it's 3 1/8 diameter vs the MAF housing's 3" diameter, make it 3" as well.



"All that's necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for enough good men to do nothing.”
Edmund Burke

G35 6mt

 

The pressure build-up can be defined using the Pitot-static tube theory:

P = .5 x r x v^2

Pressure (P) is force divided by an area. In the English system of measurement the units of pressure are (lb - force)/in2 which translates to psi.
Density (r) is mass divided by volume. The units of density in the English system are (lb - mass)/in3. Velocity (v) is air speed, with units ft/sec. Plotting pressure vs. speed gives a graph that has theoretical pressure rising with the square of speed, and this is why ram air has much more effect at greater speeds. For a speed of 150 mph, the resulting maximum theoretical pressure would be about 27millibar (approximately .4 psi).

At 75 mph you might expect 0.1 psi or 0.68% ...........assuming you used a wind tunnel to optimize everything.

Tests from 20 years ago showed it was possible to get to 88% of theoretical or roughly 0.6% roughly a gain of 1.56 HP [260 HP 3.5 V6] at 75 mph.

Physics often ruins good ideas.

 

An inexpensibe [from ebay] Dwyer manometer round gauge [meter] with a 0-3 " water column [3/27.7= 0.1 psi] and 0-20" [0.722 psi] scale would be a very accurate ~~$30 test instrument for your experiments.

Just make sure you are ingesting the absolutely lowest temperature air you can find, AS 7 F hotter air will negate any possible pressure gain at 75 mph.

Study this 5 part article: Getting rid of negative boost
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0629/...popularArticle

 

If you're making your own intake, you should read this <a href="http://nissanperformancemag.com/june02/revengeofthenerds1.php">article</a>

 

Comment on that article...i guess he forgot to mention that oiled filters will cause the MAF sensor in "Nissan" cars to malfunction over time. From my personal experience i've seen it happen to a 2001 Maxima, and 01 Sentra SE.

 

We see the overoiled [or any oil] MAF all the time. Worse are those where the owner tried to clean with the wrong solvent and destroys the MAF by changing its calibration.

These $500+ exercises build owner character.

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

These $500+ exercises build owner character.

<hr></blockquote>
Classic Q45tech line.

---------------------------------
http://www.anythingbox.net

 

According to Qteck my car shuld be in a dirt grave by now. Running better than ever tho

2003.5 DP 5AT Sedan
14.2 @ 97.18
Z-Tube
K&N Drop In & Airbox Mod
10 Wire Hyper-Ground
Crawford Plenum (V4)
UR Crank Pulley
Hotchkis Sways (M/M)
Polk EX-3500 Tweeters/Shock Sensor/H-Liner