I basically did this when mine was replaced. Babied it for the 1st 100 miles then changed the oil.

Then I started to work it. No redline but hard pulls in all gears and never let it remain at a constant rpm for more than a few seconds.

Did that for the next 900 miles and then another oil change at 1k. Then started driving normally which for me is still pretty hard with occasional runs up to redline.

Car still burned a quart every 2k or so. Switched to M1 0W40 at around 4k and continued to drive aggresively. I checked the oil every week and noticed the consumption gradually lessened.

I have about 15k on the replacement now and it burns about a 1/2 qt every 3k. I can totally live with that.

 

Good point. Since it's lighter than your coupe, I don't have to drive it as hard to go fast.

Interesting experiment, though.

 

Do the highway pulsing man.

 

I bought my Rev-Up Sedan in San Antonio. I drove the speed limit until I got to Kenedy TX. Then I took a good back road to Goliad. I "let er' rip". I drove hard and fast. Went 90 to 100 most of the 20+ miles to Goliad. Mine uses about 8 oz of oil in 7500 miles now. It has 83K on it.

 

Btw, just wanted to report back, I'm only about 200 miles or so into the new oil change, haven't checked the oil yet, waiting til 1000 or so. But I have been less harsh, because it's cold, rainy or icy or snowing out, and just not really fun.

I'll say if it has burned any oil or not...here comes the real test soon...

 

I drive my Z hard all the time, and even when cruising I take it into the higher RPMs all the time, doesn't help my burning issues...

 

Tony, I don't think you are allowed to post without at least putting a picture of your car with your post.

 

haha, sorry... forgot...

 

Ok after the long awaited response thanks to the site buggin out.

I'm past 1000 miles on my new oil change, and to remind you I use to burn 1/3rd to 1/4th of oil every 1000 miles, and I have ZERO oil burnt!

That's right ZERO. This is no joke. This is a fix. Do it, try it, now.




I'm am VERY happy, my baby is healthy now. I now have a quart of GTX sitting next to me that I'm going to keep, the very quart of oil I bought because I thought I'd be down in oil, and never again will I be. It's a nice little medal of accomplishment.

...And in regards to Tony, it's more than jsut speeding around, its all the guidelines I stated that I did, I think the highway pulsing is by far the most important part and letting revs sit high in gear.

 

Can someone explain to me how accel/decel at high RPM's creates less oil burning? Oil burning, to my understanding, is when oil enters the combustion chamber. This is done when the O-rings on the valve cover, or the piston rings don't seal properly.

Am I missing something? Is this with VQ rev up motors only?

I just don't understand how pulsing the motor under load at high RPMS helps solve oil burning issues. I'm sorry, but I need empirical evidence from you to believe anything you are claiming here. Don't mean to sound like a jerk, but it just doesn't make sense in my head.

 

Short answer is the rings are not pushed against the cylinder wall by the spring tension of the ring itself, they are pushed against the cylinder wall by the pressure in the combustion chamber. Putting the enigine under load increases that pressure and pushes them harder against the wall for a more complete mating.

 

Here's an explanation (for motocycles but it's the same principle)

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

 

cool. i learned something new today. thanks!

 

www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

Yeah that article covers it.

And this thread is the real world application. Ya have to grind the cylinder walls hard, and the only way to do that is in the upper revs. Other (weaker cylinder wall) vehicles may not require such brash way of break-in, but hey this is a Skyline, not some Civic. Kind of like a type A personality (such as myself), give them one thing to do, and they'll hardly get it done. Give them 500 and it will all be done in 5 minutes. If you get that analogy. Basically our cylinder walls are tough, and slappin them on the cheek won't do all that much..