Yeah just sucks, cuz I thought I came up with the big 'solution', got ahead of myself I guess. Weird though that for the following 3k miles after driving really hard, it never burned. Some kind of phenomenon. But now its clearly back to doing its thing, of burning the oil.

I mean its just a quart by 3500 miles or so, no big deal, in the end.

I guess the optimum activity level of efficiency for our cars is at a racing level, not street.

 

I still say it didn't work for you because the method only works during engine break in. That is the only shot you get for the rings to seat properly. If they didn't seat during break in they never will.

 

When you drive at low load, cruise, idle, etc. the car is in high vacuum and oil is being sucked past the piston rings into the combustion chamber. So it all makes sense... When you push the car, you are forcing blow by gases from the combustion chamber past the piston rings, into the crankcase, and those vapors make their way through the PCV system back into the intake (but much of the heavy oil droplets are retained in the crankcase). You will end up with more oil in the intake/tb/plenum though, unless you run a catch can. You may want to change the PCV valve while you're at it. If you're building up crankcase pressure due to a sticky PCV, it can cause poor ring sealing at idle and cruise. Changing the PCV takes 10 mins and $15.

 

It doesn't make sense cuz most cars don't do that.

 

Is this tread still active? Anyone on it since march 2010 post?

 

Hm? It was concluded that the engine will burn less oil if driven hard, but once driven normal again it will return to burning oil.

You could say the car was meant to be driven hard all the time in that case.

 

Shitty piston rings along with FAIL valve guide seals and POS non sealing Valve covers will explain all your oil consumption....

 

Once I became aware of oil consumption problem I checked the compression on all cylinders and found them all about 182+-1.
A new engine is around 185+-1, so there was no problem there.
As soon as the oil/air separators and a new PCV valve was installed, the consumption did not change anymore.
It does not mean that it returned to normal, it only means that the damage was stopped just in time.
The stuck PCV valve caused excessive oil to pass into the upper cylinder, depleting the engine of oil faster than normal.
If it is stopped before it reaches the last quart, or just before the engine red light turns on, it is possible to keep the engine as-is without farther damage.
If any engine light goes on for lack of oil, it's to late !!!!!!.
Driving it hard will not prolong the engine's life!
If you drive it hard you must use a high quality oil and replace every 2000 miles.
This engine is very sensitive and it's designed to the very extreme, it's not the same quality as a Honda, if you drive the G35 to hard, it will drive you down into an $8,000 expense.
One more thing for a fast check-up of the rings
Add a CD2 or similar additive to thicken the oil for about one mile. If the engine dies in neutral, the rings are OK, replace the oil with new and keep driving.
If you do not observe any change, or the engine works just a little harder, your rings are warned and you can keep the additive inside til next oil change.