There are pictures from my350z from a shop called S&R Performance in FL. http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...5hr-build.html

The pictures are self explanatory.

Closed VR block vs open and closed VQ block.

 

And seriously no one has EVER done this?

 

From what they said the answer is no on the VQ. But Honda people have for a while.

The highest HP VR I've seen was 700whp with stock turbos. Even a non sleeved built VQ tops that so this is going to make it even better.

 

i'm glad i opened this, i had no idea what a closed/open block was

 

sick!

 

Today at the shop I came across a closed deck naturally aspired V6 made by Mitsubishi getting rebuilt. I shined a flashlight through the coolant passages and found out that it's only closed at the top like the VQ35 in this thread and the VR. Coolant still flows around each cylinder all the way around.

Pics of the block and some of the rotating assembly which was rebuilt and was about finished being installed.
This motor spun a bearing because the water pump is located inside the block and it leaked inside and mixed with oil.

 

Came across another closed deck Toyota V6. It seems all that were made closed are before the year 2000 because of higher emissions standards since the Kyoto Protocol in 97 and it was enforced in 2005.
<embed src="http://img526.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Mclosedeckv6toyota" width="640" height="380" allowFullScreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/>

GTM also offers a closed deck VQ35 as a 4L stroker shortblock.

 

Maybe I should have done this instead of using a block guard on my turbo LS.

I had a block guard installed even though the my tuner recommended that I not had it installed do to a history of it moving around and doing more harm than good.

And he was right. 6 months later, I started to smell coolant and my motor was f'd..

 

This block guard? http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-252955.aspx You can weld it shut but if it's an older block it will sweat out coolant during welding.

It would probably be a good idea to weld the block guards into place.

 

AWESOME! I'm doing it to my vq40 project block! Obviously he tig welded the block closed? I wonder if it stayed true while welding, and if he continuesly ran the bead, or welded it like body panels in small sections, to dissipate the heat evenly around the weld and prevent pulling, pushing the sleeve?

 

It is done before the block goes into the machine shop to get decked and bored.

 

Hi Andrei,

The VQ35HR we built months ago runs to this day with no over heating issues in fact it runs very smooth. This setup runs twin turbo HKS.

You have to close the deck before you bore.

 

Good to hear. It's definitely something I will do also.

Do you think it would be a good idea to weld in the VQ35DE block guards made by Supertech since they already have holes drilled for coolant? http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-252955.aspx Or maybe drill them out some more?

Or would it be better to close the deck completely and then drill coolant passages? How do you know where to drill to make coolant passages? Is that something that is determined by the head gaskets used?

 

Nice! Didn't know the difference either before now but makes sense

 

Andrei: Use the super tech guards, weld them in, and open the coolant pass. up. Coolant passages are determined by the HG being used, enlarge the crutial passages as marked by the HG, when layed out on the block (its a good idea to use spray paint to mark out, just like P&P work). Coolant doesnt actually flow into the heads from the block, just upto the heads.. The HR gaskets are much better than the DE stock gasket design. It is nearly impossible to fully enclose a block, unless you use cylinder cement, but that would not be recommended for a street car that needs coolant to run.
I liked what someone said on the 350z forum about drilling/tapping holes, and tq studs 2lb into the mid-lower cylinder as well as block guards. For added support.
If you were going for extremely high HP, a main girdle would also be a great investment, to prevent crank-walk/cap movement, or spun bearings, a common problem we used to get when building high hp 4g63t engines. I have made custom main girdles, but have to modify the stock oil pick-up tube usually to accomodate the extra depth.
I know there are guys on here making butt-loads of power, and may say, this is over doing it, and this is no knock to them. I just like to be extra safe, when it comes to my engine. I like to beat the ***** off of it, and keep it around afterwards.. I dont have a small fortune to build motors with, so I have to make the few grand I can spend count where it matters most.