This is the DM2 coolant bypass mod. https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...coolant+bypass I bought spare hardpipes and I cut them and Kenny@KDAuto welded them shut. This deletes a bunch of coolant hoses that are there to improve emissions. This reduces clutter and also improves cooling to reduce heat soaking.

I will install this when I get 3 new gaskets. 2 for the heads and one for the driverside hardpipe.

 

I can't tell by the pictures exactly which coolant lines this is going to be removing. You don't think you can be more specific can ya?

 

Yes. I will take better pics. The DM2 thread has better pics BTW.

 

Ok here are some better pics maybe.

 

I would redo your rear cross over area. You threaded a pressed in tube, I would drill that out and retap for a npt plug, or just weld it shut.

 

As Danny mentioned, check out the 1st post on the link below. It shows the npt plug on my rear section.

https://g35driver.com/forums/picture...pass-more.html

 

There's also another good pic of it in post #4.

 

The gaskets I ordered are on back order. I also bought the VQ35HR T-stat housing, HR oil filter stud to remove the oil warmer. The only emission related thing on the car that will be left is the open deck.

1 x [21200] THERMOSTAT ASSY - 350Z (Z33) 2007+ HR (21200-Z33002) = $19.86
2 x [13050N] GASKET-WATER INLET - 350Z (Z33) 2003-2006 (13050-Z33001) = $3.92
1 x [15213] STUD-OIL FILTER - 350Z (Z33) 2003-2008 (15213-Z33001) = $6.83
1 x [13050P] GASKET-WATER INLET - 350Z (Z33) 2003-2008 (13050-Z33003) = $3.58
2 x [13264A] BOLT-ROCKER COVER - 350Z (Z33) 2003-2006, 2007+ HR (13224-Z33003) = $7.20
2 x [11062] GASKET-WATER OUTLET - 350Z (Z33) 2003-2008 (11062-Z33001) = $5.04
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $46.43
United Parcel Service (UPS Ground): $9.85
Total: $56.28

 

Here are pics of the everything needed to remove the oil warmer. I need an air gun to take off the hard lines from the warmer.

 

Today I made some changes to the rear pipe. It's all complete now and I will install it tomorrow maybe. The tapping bit is an M10 standard so I had to use standard bolts instead of metric which I already had. I also bought gold ones because it was the only complete set of 3 and the silver ones had only 2 bolts per box.

 

Damn bro. The past posts we have put up explain alot of things you are doing wrong here. The plugs in the back are npt fittings which means they wedge into seat the fitting. We made the first 3 side pipe sets by welding the holes shut like you did. Only one set didnt leak. Our guaranteed route was the plate set up (with pressure test). Let me know and please pm me if you need help.

 

If that sensor next to the bolts I used does not leak there is no reason why the bolts should. I'm going to install it as is.

 

those are taper seats on the sensors.Plus both of them have copper crush washers.

 

You're right. I took out the sensor just to take a peek.

I took off the sealant tape and used liquid thread sealant on the bolts. Should hold. I didn't have time today to install it plus it was hot as hell outside but maybe tomorrow morning I'll begin.

 

I've just completed this mod also and used 1/8 pipe plugs for the rear pipe. relocated the heater supply fitting to the rear pipe to completely eliminate all the fittings on passenger pipe except for radiator hose.

Another method to remove pipe nipples because thier pressed in is to place them in vise and gently back them out by rotating pipe.

Not mentioned if you don't have an HR motor the thermostat housing needs to be modified or purchase the HR thermostat for a DE or Rev Up application.

Before welding on used coolant pipes thoroughly clean them and heat up the weld area to eliminate contamination otherwise you may experience pin hole size leaks.