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Coolant Change PROBLEM - Possible Air In System After Change HELP!

Old Oct 2, 2010 | 06:48 PM
  #1  
fzr's Avatar
fzr
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Question Coolant Change PROBLEM - Possible Air In System After Change HELP!

Today I decided to change my Antifreeze, I drained the old one, opened the air relief and poured the new Antifreeze into the rad until it can out of my air relief plug opening.

I filled up next the tank to max and started the car, the car went to regular temp and then my heat didn't work at all it was COLD.

Once I rev up the car to like 1500 RPM and higher the air gets warm, as soon as I release the gas I goes back cold.

I opened the air relief plug over and over now no air comes out. The first few times some air escaped.

I even jacked up the front of the car like 2 feet in the air opened the rad cap and rev up the car for like 10 min to get a few bubles out and still I get cold Air on IDLE.

I know I still got bubles in the system but how can I get rid of the all?

Any input would be helpful...

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 04:56 AM
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From: Santa Clara, CA
Originally Posted by fzr
Today I decided to change my Antifreeze, I drained the old one, opened the air relief and poured the new Antifreeze into the rad until it can out of my air relief plug opening.

I filled up next the tank to max and started the car, the car went to regular temp and then my heat didn't work at all it was COLD.

Once I rev up the car to like 1500 RPM and higher the air gets warm, as soon as I release the gas I goes back cold.

I opened the air relief plug over and over now no air comes out. The first few times some air escaped.

I even jacked up the front of the car like 2 feet in the air opened the rad cap and rev up the car for like 10 min to get a few bubles out and still I get cold Air on IDLE.

I know I still got bubles in the system but how can I get rid of the all?

Any input would be helpful...

Thanks
The heat not working is normal and is fine. You will need to heat cycle the engine anywhere from 6 - 10 times to get all the air out. Just drive it and keep an eye on the temp gauge; I've never seen it overheat or move around. After a few cycles, check the coolant level in the reservoir, you will have to top it off. Keep checking and topping off until the level no longer changes. At this point your heat should work properly.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:19 AM
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From: Doyelstown, PA
put a funnel in the radiator where cap is.. turn on car, blast the heater and let it run to get all the air bubbles out.. that's what i had to do.. took me about 5-10 mins.. after i saw a few huge air bubbles i put the radiator cap back on and i drove and car ran fine
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago when I flushed my coolant. You need to do the process that bythabay suggested (which is also described in the factory service manual).

With the engine cool, remove the radiator cap and air relief plug. Pour coolant into the radiator neck until it starts to spill out of the air relief hose. Reinstall the air relief plug and radiator cap. Top of the reservoir tank (I filled it to just under the "Max" line).

Drive around a few miles to get the engine up to operating temperature. Then shut off the engine and let it cool down completely. Check the radiator fluid level and the reservoir tank level. You should notice that both have dropped a bit due to air bubbles escaping from the system. Top off the radiator neck and reservoir tank and repeat the above procedure until the coolant level no longer drops. It took me about 4 or 5 cycles.

Also, when you are filling the radiator neck, be sure to pour slowly to prevent additional air bubbles from getting in there.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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this is what you need:

Amazon Amazon

 
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Old Nov 6, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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From: Chicago
For anyone else reading this, i would definately get the above mentioned funnel. best $20 ive ever spent. i got mine from Summit Racing.
 
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