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time to build a motor

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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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From: ATL hoe
Unhappy time to build a motor

well unfortunately, infiniti has shot me down as far as replacing my motor. it was only 2 months and 5k miles out of warranty. my car is using oil and is smoking during cold starts....pretty much valve seals and rings are at fault. so its time to build one. i'll be doing all the work myself minus any actual machine work needed. all im really doing for now is building the bottom end as i PLAN on going with a s/c between 350-400 rwhp, but not anytime soon since i dont have that kinda money layin around. so im needing advise/opinions on things such as rod/main bearings. i could match the grades and use oem bearings or run acl or clevite bearings....im prolly gonna go with the wiseco piston/eagle rod setup. still undecided if i should run arp studs/bolts......i just dont know yet. im still so mad at the whole situation and my mind is just goin round and round with what to do. BUT, my friend has a 05 non-rev motor from a coupe with around 15k that had a oil consumption issue....that he is givin me to build. infinitime
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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That's bullsheet!! They turned u down because u were just out of warranty??
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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From: Pothole Central and still ridin slammed...Boston
Listen bro don't be upset. I built my motor 3 times before I got it right and I am proud to say I did. First time was I brought used built block but the rings were bad, 2nd time I cracked a ring landing in cylinder number 3...3rd time has been a charm for me as I've been running great (with the exceptional misfire code now because of the cold weather).

So my friend has a built motor with a Vortech and he laid down a little over 450whp. Enjoy the build and good luck!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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yep, used right about 1.5qt of oil in 2600 miles. smokes every time i start it up after it sits for a few hours then goes away once warm. bad thing is i work at the infiniti dealer, obv my shop manager didnt wanna help me out too much. oh well, fvck em. he's lucky i need my job or else i woulda knocked his teeth out.

back to the build, im still debating if i should just re-ring the block with oem stuff and throw it back together or do some mild building. im not gonna touch the heads since im assuming they are good on the other motor. but i plan on throwing a vortech on it in the future, i'd like to put rods and pistons in while i will be into it. i know infiniti has diff grades for the bearings and acl has std, .025 and whatever else. so im guessing just get std sized rod/main bearings?? i'll just be honing out the cylinders since im not going oversized.
i've torn motors apart, i've built the motor in my old 87 crx si, but i know the vq is a lil way more advanced so i will take way more caution during the build. any tips or advice would be great as far as what you did building the bottom end and what you used.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-...rbo-build.html

Let me know if you any questions and i will try to help out as much as possible

I used Calico ACL Race bearings
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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From: Pothole Central and still ridin slammed...Boston
^+1
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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awesome. my only Qs are concerning the bottom end components. if i get the wiseco/eagle combo i'll have to get them balanced. otherwise it's figuring out which bearings to get exactly and throwing it together....again, still undecided if i should use arp bolts or not. im only wanting to run 350-400 WHP WHEN i boost it.....so consider that. heads will stay stock for the time being as well.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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I would use ARP mains they are cheap enough and HR Head bolts for what you are looking for.
While you got the motor apart do the HR mod and use HR headgaskets
Possibly Cams if it were me

Here are some other threads to look into

http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/44...50z-revup.html

He helped me with my build

http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/40...ard-build.html
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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From: Pothole Central and still ridin slammed...Boston
The ARP L19s are the best way to go on the head studs. The ACL bearings seem to do a great job for about 200.00.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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HR bolts are the same length as the DE? i've seen some posts about this but havent found anything about EXACTLY what to do or get. so pretty much use HR headbolts, headgaskets and mill out the water jacket in the corner on both banks of the block? i'll def look into doing this mod tho.

ive used acl race bearings before when i built my crx engine lol but im unsure about the grades....just go with standard mains and rods since the motor im building has like 15k on it.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by the_coupe
HR bolts are the same length as the DE? i've seen some posts about this but havent found anything about EXACTLY what to do or get. so pretty much use HR headbolts, headgaskets and mill out the water jacket in the corner on both banks of the block? i'll def look into doing this mod tho.

ive used acl race bearings before when i built my crx engine lol but im unsure about the grades....just go with standard mains and rods since the motor im building has like 15k on it.
The HR bolts have a higher tinsel strength than the De bolts so they will hold more power and are 3mm longer.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf

Don't order the bearing until you have measured your crank with a micrometer and measured the bore of the mains with a bore gauge
so you will know exactly what size you will need.

use the service manual since they are numbers etched on the crank that will tell you what measurements you should be reading from the crank you will be using.

Then and only then will you know what size bearing you will need to order.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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big_c has a s/c with around 400rwhp, you might want to ask him what he did since his car seems to be running good and sexy.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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yeah i'll hit him up...thanks. if im building this motor i want it to last longer than the original shyt did. i think that might be realistic since im not wanting to go high hp or boost so longevity and reliability should be on key. my price for HR headgaskets and headbolts is around $100 so i'll def go that route and the water jacket mod i can do myself at work. arp studs are $200 and L19s are $400....i def dont require those since my goals are low. so really all i need to figure out are bearings. now if i can find some cheaper or preowned rods/pistons than $1000 lol
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Sorry to hear about your engine problem. It's a big job doing it all yourself.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 11:38 AM
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yeah.....luckily these motors are cake to drop and tear apart...i've just never tore into the bottom end in one. since workin at the dealer i've either changed short blocks or complete longblocks....currently doing a longblock in a 07 qx56.
 
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