time to build a motor
#16
Is the motor in question a Revup? Regardless, it's my understanding that the rings in the VQ35's are pretty weak. I believe the reason for the weak rings is that Nissan was trying to reduce friction losses and it basically backfired on them. The two weak links in the VQ35 are the rings and the rods. The most everything else is decently stout. If this were my build and I was planning on forced induction, I'd do the following:
1) Aftermarket rods and pistons. I don't know if I'd drop compression.
2) ARP bolts
3) If it's not a Revup motor, then install the higher capacity Revup oil pump and Revup rod bolts (or ARPs).
4) Larger capacity radiator
5) HR OEM headers and HR cats if the car will be supercharged. There should be some gains there, you'll have perfect OEM fitment, and none of the noise (ie hiss) or heat issues of aftermarket headers.
That's about all I'd do. The crank, heads, and headgaskets are pretty stout.
#17
#18
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
no its not a revup motor, and yes the rings are the weak point causing the oil consumption. in my awesome case, i had shytty valve seals as well on top of that. but we drop them down.....motor and trans together with the xmember. i can have it down in like 1-1.5 hours. i have megan long tubes waiting in my room. i will keep the stock 10.5 compression with prolly wiseco pistons and eagle rods which already come with arp bolts. and im set on running the HR gasket/head bolt setup so that covers that part. i know i should do the revup oil pump but if i cant get one for cheap im really not worried about it....i dont think i'll have much problems using the stocker....and the radiator upgrade can wait until i do more to it.
#20
no its not a revup motor, and yes the rings are the weak point causing the oil consumption. in my awesome case, i had shytty valve seals as well on top of that. but we drop them down.....motor and trans together with the xmember. i can have it down in like 1-1.5 hours. i have megan long tubes waiting in my room. i will keep the stock 10.5 compression with prolly wiseco pistons and eagle rods which already come with arp bolts. and im set on running the HR gasket/head bolt setup so that covers that part. i know i should do the revup oil pump but if i cant get one for cheap im really not worried about it....i dont think i'll have much problems using the stocker....and the radiator upgrade can wait until i do more to it.
I don't think the Revup oil pump is that expensive and if you're going with FI right away, it would be much wiser to add the radiator from the start. More HP = more heat. Adding 100whp adds a significant amount of heat. It's not worth the risk, IMO. Good luck with the build. It should be stout motor when it's all done. Just out of curiosity, how much are you going to spend on all the parts your listed (minus the oil pump and radiator). I'm just asking because lots of performance shops charge crazy amounts for "built" engines. The ONLY way I'd have a VQ motor built is by a legit Nissan/Infiniti tech. Every engine is different and there are specific factory processes and checks that need to be done when tearing down and rebuilding a motor. It's not rocket science, but there is a process.
#21
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
the revup oil pump at my cost is around $170......ill check with the nissan dealer down the road to see if i can get it any cheaper there. well im just gonna pretty much have the bottom end built and ready for FI but i wont be doin FI any time soon so ill be ok with the stock radiator for the time being. and ill be doing the HR headgasket mod so that alone will increase cooling efficiency throughout the block and heads. i got a friend who has a spare revup motor that i CAN get the pump off of....but idk if he really wants to part with it lol. what is the biggest difference between the de and revup oil pumps? im aware higher oil pressure but cant you shim out the stock pump to do that? thats what i did with my 22re pump for my toyota truck lol
#22
From what I've read, it has a slightly stronger internal spring, a stronger rotor, and slightly stronger housing. From what I can gather, are these revisions allow it to sustain a bit more rpm. For $170, it's cheap insurance.
#24
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
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Hasanbaloch
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02-29-2024 08:45 PM