Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction Have Technical Questions or Done Modifications to the G35? Find out the answer in here! (View All Posts)

time to build a motor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
  #16  
Old 12-07-2010 | 12:03 PM
DaveB's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by the_coupe
yeah.....luckily these motors are cake to drop and tear apart...i've just never tore into the bottom end in one. since workin at the dealer i've either changed short blocks or complete longblocks....currently doing a longblock in a 07 qx56.
Welll, if that's the case, you're more than qualified to do the work yourself. Just curious, how do you guys typically take the motors out? Front clip off and pull out through the front?

Is the motor in question a Revup? Regardless, it's my understanding that the rings in the VQ35's are pretty weak. I believe the reason for the weak rings is that Nissan was trying to reduce friction losses and it basically backfired on them. The two weak links in the VQ35 are the rings and the rods. The most everything else is decently stout. If this were my build and I was planning on forced induction, I'd do the following:

1) Aftermarket rods and pistons. I don't know if I'd drop compression.
2) ARP bolts
3) If it's not a Revup motor, then install the higher capacity Revup oil pump and Revup rod bolts (or ARPs).
4) Larger capacity radiator
5) HR OEM headers and HR cats if the car will be supercharged. There should be some gains there, you'll have perfect OEM fitment, and none of the noise (ie hiss) or heat issues of aftermarket headers.

That's about all I'd do. The crank, heads, and headgaskets are pretty stout.
 
  #17  
Old 12-07-2010 | 12:17 PM
Jeff92se's Avatar
Red Card Crew
iTrader: (24)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 37,810
Likes: 583
From: ɐʍ 'ǝlʇʇɐǝs
Premier Member
I think you should be discussing what CR you want to end up with considering you won't be boosting right away and your boost goals aren't that high. If you run low CR, you're car will feel slow as hell while driving it around NA.
 
  #18  
Old 12-07-2010 | 01:02 PM
the_sedan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
no its not a revup motor, and yes the rings are the weak point causing the oil consumption. in my awesome case, i had shytty valve seals as well on top of that. but we drop them down.....motor and trans together with the xmember. i can have it down in like 1-1.5 hours. i have megan long tubes waiting in my room. i will keep the stock 10.5 compression with prolly wiseco pistons and eagle rods which already come with arp bolts. and im set on running the HR gasket/head bolt setup so that covers that part. i know i should do the revup oil pump but if i cant get one for cheap im really not worried about it....i dont think i'll have much problems using the stocker....and the radiator upgrade can wait until i do more to it.
 
  #19  
Old 12-07-2010 | 02:20 PM
Jeff92se's Avatar
Red Card Crew
iTrader: (24)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 37,810
Likes: 583
From: ɐʍ 'ǝlʇʇɐǝs
Premier Member
Yup, given the boost levels you want to run, I'd probably do that or just lower it maybe 1/2 - 1 point at most.
 
  #20  
Old 12-07-2010 | 02:56 PM
DaveB's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by the_coupe
no its not a revup motor, and yes the rings are the weak point causing the oil consumption. in my awesome case, i had shytty valve seals as well on top of that. but we drop them down.....motor and trans together with the xmember. i can have it down in like 1-1.5 hours. i have megan long tubes waiting in my room. i will keep the stock 10.5 compression with prolly wiseco pistons and eagle rods which already come with arp bolts. and im set on running the HR gasket/head bolt setup so that covers that part. i know i should do the revup oil pump but if i cant get one for cheap im really not worried about it....i dont think i'll have much problems using the stocker....and the radiator upgrade can wait until i do more to it.

I don't think the Revup oil pump is that expensive and if you're going with FI right away, it would be much wiser to add the radiator from the start. More HP = more heat. Adding 100whp adds a significant amount of heat. It's not worth the risk, IMO. Good luck with the build. It should be stout motor when it's all done. Just out of curiosity, how much are you going to spend on all the parts your listed (minus the oil pump and radiator). I'm just asking because lots of performance shops charge crazy amounts for "built" engines. The ONLY way I'd have a VQ motor built is by a legit Nissan/Infiniti tech. Every engine is different and there are specific factory processes and checks that need to be done when tearing down and rebuilding a motor. It's not rocket science, but there is a process.
 
  #21  
Old 12-07-2010 | 04:33 PM
the_sedan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
the revup oil pump at my cost is around $170......ill check with the nissan dealer down the road to see if i can get it any cheaper there. well im just gonna pretty much have the bottom end built and ready for FI but i wont be doin FI any time soon so ill be ok with the stock radiator for the time being. and ill be doing the HR headgasket mod so that alone will increase cooling efficiency throughout the block and heads. i got a friend who has a spare revup motor that i CAN get the pump off of....but idk if he really wants to part with it lol. what is the biggest difference between the de and revup oil pumps? im aware higher oil pressure but cant you shim out the stock pump to do that? thats what i did with my 22re pump for my toyota truck lol
 
  #22  
Old 12-07-2010 | 05:55 PM
DaveB's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by the_coupe
what is the biggest difference between the de and revup oil pumps?
From what I've read, it has a slightly stronger internal spring, a stronger rotor, and slightly stronger housing. From what I can gather, are these revisions allow it to sustain a bit more rpm. For $170, it's cheap insurance.
 
  #23  
Old 12-07-2010 | 05:56 PM
the_sedan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
true true. well i'll see if he will give me his spare then
 
  #24  
Old 12-07-2010 | 09:36 PM
the_sedan's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 20
From: ATL hoe
HR headbolts and headgaskets will run me around $110 so that's def the route ill go since it IS better than the stock DE stuff as far as gasket sealing and bolt clamping force.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hasanbaloch
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
15
02-29-2024 08:45 PM
Gookiecrunch
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
37
08-19-2015 12:00 PM
ghost_g35
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
2
08-07-2015 10:31 AM
MrKrabs
New Members Check In
4
07-23-2015 05:41 AM



You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: time to build a motor



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:16 AM.