Hello all, thanks for looking in,

Here is the issue:
Had royal Purple 5w30 in for the past 6mo, 5k miles.
i usually do my oil changes at about 4-5K because i only use fully synthetic.
I used some new Valvoline Intake cleaner about 3 weeks ago, no problems after a week of driving.

Was going to do an oil change but had a road trip planed for two weeks so i opted to wait.

Car ran great parked it in the garage went on road trip for 11 days, came back and started the car....
Heard a noise like squeeling from the front end then the SES light comes on and the car idles real rough.
Got the read and i got P0021 and P0300
searched forums found out people had similar issues and changed the oil reset the ECM/ECU by unplugging battery for 24 hours and fixed the problem.

i dont have 24 hours to leave it sitting. I changed the oil and unplugged battery for 8 hours and no change.

Here is the thing...in park it idles rough, shaking the seats...in reverse i it idles at about 200 to 400 and feels like its about to shut off...in drive it runs just fine no issues or hesitations, ant a stop light it idles at 200-300 and is still pretty rough like its about to shut off.
Any suggestions ??

 

Valvoline VPS COMPLETE FUEL SYSTEM TREATMENT 12,000 MILE is what i used.

just added 4.5 qts of Mobile 1 Extended synthetic...could not get the fuel filter off so ran that for a day and now about to pull the old filter and replace with a new mobile 1 filter.

 

Valvoline VPS COMPLETE FUEL SYSTEM TREATMENT 12,000 MILE is what i used.

just added 4.5 qts of Mobile 1 Extended synthetic...could not get the fuel filter off so ran that for a day and now about to pull the old filter and replace with a new mobile 1 filter.

 

so i just ended up changing the oil i put in last night......looked pretty dark already sooo i let it drain .. droped the car back down so it wa even on the floor..threw in another half quart of mobile 1 left over from last night..let it drain for another 20 minutes.. plug back in and 4.5 quarts of mobile 1 premium extended 15,000 mile fully synthetic back in. disconnected battery at 430pm and will reconnect at 6am. Hope this solves my problem.

PLEASE PROVIDE some inputs i am not that knowledgeable...i can read and turn screws lol.

 

P0021 - Intake Valve Timing Control
P0300 - Random Misfire

Normally the P0021 comes on from low oil pressure due to lack of oil. Its possible if your oil was low that some serious damage has occured.

its possible the cam timing is off with the timing chain as well??


Reset the ECU by removing the negative terminal and pumping the brakes 5-6 times.

Also - you have sufficiently confused me - were you 4.5 quarts low on oil? It only holds 5 quarts...

 

hey thanks for the info, no i was not 4.5 quarts low... here is what i did:
Monday
had codes read
Used the search button here, which pointed to changing the oil.
removed positive connection to the battery.
changed oil..oil was pretty dark and did not drain as forceful when the drain plug first comes out as it usually does.
tried to get the oil filter off but could not. so I unjacked the car so it was level on the ground..poured 1/2 quart of fresh oil in and let it continue to drain for 20 minutes.
jacked the car up, put back oil plug and poured in 4.5 quarts of mobile 1 extended 15K 5w30 synthetic oil.

Tuesday
unplugged the positive terminal of battery
removed the old oil filter and noticed the oil was still pretty dark, removed drain plug
let oil drain...still oil appeared dark.
unjaked car to let drain..poured in 1 quart of mobile 1..let drain
then rebolted oil plug and poured in 4.5 quarts of mobile 1 extended 15k synthetic.

Woke up this morning, plugged in positive terminal, car started up, but still idles rough.
and still drops to about 200 rpm at the stop light. no SES appeared.
Parked car for 7 hours (work)
started car up and still has a faint blop..blop..blop..blop sound when in reverse a and still idles at 200 RPM when in Drive and at a stoplight. While drivin the car feels fine but when i come to a stop its slowly creeps down to 200 rpm.

A friend suggested adding some octane boost and my normal 91 octane to the tank seeing that i used 87 octane after adding the Valvoline stuff.
im in colorado so 85=regular 87=midgrade and 91= premium

thoughts ???

 

p0021

1. Check the engine oil level and condition. If the engine oil is low, it could set this code.

2. If the oil is good, check the IVT Control Solenoid voltage on the Red wire for battery voltage to the solenoid and the Green wire for the on/off signal when the engine is revved to 2000 RPM.

3. If the signal is good, then the ECM is trying to control the valve timing. Manually ground the Green wire for the IVT Control Solenoid to see if there is a change in the way the engine idles. If so, the solenoid is working. If not, the solenoid could be stuck.

4. The resistance of the IVT solenoids is 7.5 ohms at 70 degrees F.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) sends on/off pulse signals to the Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoids to vary the intake valve timing depending on the driving status. The ECM monitors the intake camshaft positions to verify that the camshafts are where they are commanded to be.

 

You guys are truly amazing Thanks for all the info and please keep it coming

So here is the latest....
Wednesday night i picked up some Lucus oil octane booter and poured in at 1/4 tank then added 1/2 tank of premium gas for a total of 3/4 tank of gas..Car still ran rough.
Took it to my local mechanic to see what his thoughts were...he guessed the IVT solenoids towards the front top of motor...the whole time the car was running as we talked. He said have infiniti diagnose then we can go from there.
I then got in the car took it to my backup mechanic and left the car running while we chat. he said take it to the stealership.
I then got in the car took off and called the dealership, Service person said bring it in for an oil change and they can diagnose then...or bring it in and pay 120pp/h for diagnostic....i took the oild change.
I hung up the phone and while sitting at a red light noticed the car was not shaking as it did the past few days. Drove around for a bit and nothing...car feels fine now.
Getting ready to reset the ecu and see if all the codes go away and respond back.

Possible i had unstable gas while it sat for 2 weeks...? in addition to needing an oil change ??
thoughts ?

 

Just cleared the codes with scanner.....no SES light
Any advice ???

 

I'm going to go with electrical problem. Gas doesn't just become unstable but electronics will malfunction and then magically correct themselves. To put it bluntly I wouldn't be surprised if the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes back on and you will need to troubleshoot the IVT. Good luck but try not to let your engine run rough like that for too long it's just not a good idea.

 

Ok all,
Thanks for posting, since this was the issue I was having....I had rough idling and sometimes the engine would stall at lower RPM's. Basically the SES light came on quickly after and I got P0021 and P0030. P0021 apparently is the driver's side timing sensor gone bad. And P0030 apparently is the cause of P0021 which creates an inconsistent timing of the pistons. Anyways, I changed the driver's side timing sensor which was a pain in my a$$ because it's a tight space to get to it, but don't worry you'll get it. Once I changed that I reset the OBD codes and the only good it did there was not stall anymore but it was still rough on the idle.
Then the next day I went in and checked the combustion ratio and everything was good, about ~90 psi. Then I pulled the CRAPPY Autolite spark plugs that I thought I would get away with and the gaps were really bad. I replaced all 6 with new NGK iridiums platinums and reset the OBD codes and everything was running like new. Learned my lesson here not to install Autolite spark plugs. Definitely go with the OEM or better.
Good luck!

 

how did you get the solenoid out theres 2 hoses in the way and there is absolutely no way it have enough room to get out plz help thanks