So I have decided to embark on a N/A build. The base is my 2005 5AT Coupe w/ 132,000km on the clock. The goal 300-350 Wheel horse power.

The parts I am looking at using to get there.

Rebuild kit #3
- Wiseco Pistons
- Piston Ring set
- Wrist pins
- Eagle Rods with caps
- Nissan OEM Gasket kit
- ACL Engine Bearings (Rods, Mains, Thrust)
- ARP Head And Main Stud Kits
- Z1 Viton Valve Seals

JWT C2 cams

JWT Valve spring/Shim kit

Z1 headers

Berk HFC's

Custom True dual exhaust (that's been made by myself... got a mandrel bender just begging to be used)

AEM CAI W/ K&N Cylinder filter

Kenetix Velocity Manifold

OSIRIS tune

Total Cost $5,100, not including the exhaust as that's undetermined. Most of the Labor will be done myself as my mechanic is a good friend and my neighbor will be in on it as his hobby is rebuilding cars.

Comments, Complaints? Advice! I am just using the basic build kit #3 as no excessive force will be placed on the motor other than the slight power gains and RPM rise. I'm sure the new components will handle it.

later mods will include carbon fiber doors, front side panels, hood and trunk. Along with the removal of the rear seats and replacement of fronts with lighter bucket seats.

Power before looks boy's and girls.

 

So far I dont see this build breaking 300whp.

 

Not too familiar with NA builds, but wouldn't you need a stroker kit?

 

i would think so too... along with port and decking

maybe even bore the motor out think sylvanlake? or someone did that to go FI but that would produce results without

 

So I seems that my mechanic has a vortech he's got no use for in the upcoming g35 racecar project i'm helping him with so I think I will toss that on to the mod list. Along with the high end internals available for the rebuild kit.

I am thinking on running 10psi in that case which should give me far more horse power than 350whp.

In this case what stuff is out there for a rear end rebuild? I will put the nismo LSD in to get a better power transfer. Im only worried with what the auto tranny will be able to hold. Would adding a larger tranny oil intercooler be a good idea?

 

Tranny cooler, Transgo valve body kit, differential cooler.

 

Sweet as, I will look that up. see whats out there.

 

I kinda don't understand why you don't just save a lil more and boost it.....?

 

^^ you should read through the whole thread before posting.

If you are building your engine - even with plans to use the vortech, I would consider going with 11:1 compression pistons. You can run the vortech at lower boost and create a good solid power band and with the forged internals you shouldn't have to worry about problems as long as its tuned properly/safely.

You should also consider getting your heads worked - look up HEADGAMES. They have a few posts over on my350Z. With their 3-angle valve job the are getting about 40 cfm more flow than the stock. Good numbers. Makes about 5-10% difference in power from that alone.

 

Hey thanks for the tips, there is a big nissan tuner in brampton, near me so I will take it to them for the final dial in. I may still neglect the super charger route. It's more power then I'm wanting. I have been discussing high compression N/A builds with my shop and he likes the sound of it. Problem is I can't find smack on it. I have heard 290-330 is a normal achivement.

 

Adding cams is going neuter low and some mid range power. I strongly suggest adding a 3.69 rear gear and a higher stall torque converter so that your motor can get into the heart of the power quicker. Honestly, I'd get rid of the car and get a 6MT first before proceeding because a 3.69 pumpkin and high stall TC will set you back about $2K and without those mods, your car will be an absolute dog to 40-50mph.

With the cams, your powerband will extend into the lower 7000rpm range and you'll want to be shifting around 7500rpms. I'd get the Cosworth intake manifold over the Kintex unit for this very reason.

The stock heads are fine for this application. Nissan hardly changed the heads on the VQ35HR/37HR motors and they breath to nearly 8000rpms. Heads have never been much of a restriction to this motor.

I definitely wouldn't up the compression ratio if you're going to add a Vortech or any other sort of FI. Also, just because you have a Vortech lying around doesn't mean it's an easy install. The most complicated part about mounting blower to the VQ is the bracket and pulley system. Vortech has redesigned this complicated system a couple of times now and they still have some belt and pulley issues.

If it were me, I'd just do:

Pistons/rings
Rods
Small turbo with very quick spool

A small turbo would be far easier to tune and offer about 300-320whp/wtq with a very fat and useable powerband vs the peaky, low torque production of a high revving NA motor. A turbo 320whp G will be significantly quicker than a 320whp NA G because the average power of the turbo motor will be about 10 to 15% larger. Basically the motor would perform like a GM LS1 V8. You wouldn't need the high stall TC (more lowend tq would increase OEM stall speed), the gears (more motor tq means less need for gear tq multiplication), the cams, the headers, or the intake manifold. In the end, it would probably be much cheaper, more reliable, and more fun to drive.

 

Dave - you need to look at the numbers that Headgames is putting out with their work - makes a big difference when doing a build like this. 11:1 is what the HR motor is and the STILLEN SC puts down good numbers on a stock block. I wouldn't hesistate to do this especially with a conservative tune.

the 3.69 FD and Torque Converter will not be that much - you can get a pumpkin for $400 and a TC for $400-500.

 

Also, consider doing the HR headgasket w/ necessary mods if you are going to rev it. Much better gasket and the cooling channels are much superior.

 

Just to let you know that hitting 350whp on NA is very expensive from personal experience. I have a stroked/bored 11CR NA engine.

If your power goal is to stay at ~350whp, the much more economical way of doing it is FI (sc or turbo). Get your budget sorted out first then times that by at 1.5x and that will be closer to what you'd spend at the end.

 

Im still astounded by the number of people who do low hp turbo builds... 350-400 hp? Might as well sell the G and take the money you would use and just buy a V8 car.. A vette or something along those lines. Ive honestly believed that if you turbo'd a car, youre trying to get on a "super car" level, 500+hp. Keeping up with Vipers/SC Stangs, Vettes/Ferrari/Lambo so on and so forth.

All Im saying is when the day comes around for me, when I do a FI build, Id be aiming for the sky.

But I also understand making these low hp DD's. Still, I think they should have two sets of tune.. a DD tune and an All out tune...

Again. My two lincolns.