I am hoping too. I have got to get my car tuned this week, as Tadashi is leaving after this week for Japan for at least a month.

Gurgen

 

lets see a pic under the hood... keep the wheels they are sick.

 

Here is one that I have now... it's the only different thing b/w this and my previous engine, the BOV

 

speaking of JGTC, I'm going to be there
who else is?

 

I should be...not sure yet

 

Dammit Gurg, i wanna see that thing in ACTION ALREADYYYY haha Good luck with it, get some videos up and more picss!!

 

Gurgen you're such an Armo! Taking pics in Montebello only thing missing is the monument HEHEHEHE. Much love man Glad to see shes back on the road she looks damn sexy with the wheels Ill see you friday hopefully she can play too.

 

The ideal amount of negative camber depends on what you want to optimize. This statement may be true for a drag strip, but it is not true for going around curves. For ideal handling, you want the camber angle to be equivalent to the roll angle of the car at its limit. On a car like a G sedan, this will mean more negative camber on the front than the rear. But anything more than a little more than stock negative camber will produce unpleasant side effects for general street use; such as a desire for the car to follow grouves in the pavement, and can make a car that requires more steering attention on the highway. And our cars are notoriously hard on tires when using too much camber. For an agressive street driver, I would think about 1.5 to 2 degrees (negative) in the front, and about .5 to 1 degrees (negative) in the rear would be ideal. If you ever take a close look at a showroom stock race car, or something similar, you will see that they run MUCH higher negative camber, (not to mention a good amount of toe out.) This just isn't practical for the street.

If you add the coilovers, and drop the car, you will see more negative camber as well. Chances are you'll have too much camber, not too little.

Also, a number of years ago, I had a set of wheels on my race car that were causing tire rubbing problems. I had them put on a CNC milling machine, and had a 1/2" or so removed from the hub contact part of the wheel. This did not cost much, and solved my problem. Those wheels were designed with a very beefy hub section, and machining the back of the hub was exactly what the manufacturer did to create different offsets. In an effort to create a competitive race car, I needed all the tire I could get. I just specced the wrong offset originally, as that car was super tight on fender space. You might explore this solution.

 

Everything RacerX said sounds VERY REASONABLE! May want to check into shaving the hub section on your wheels...

 

Nice to see ya back in action Gurgen. I can't wait to start hearing some numbers from this beast!

 

AJ.... LMAO!

Guys...just put on the coilovers... the front is slammed! Will be correcting it all tomorrow during corner-balancing.

Tuning now becomes the biggest challenge.... only 4 days left!

 

I wish you the best of luck Gurg

 

Hey Gurgen, anything new with the car?
Can't wait to here about the numbers...