ok..so i got a story for you people....it involves an intake cleaner mistake...
SO, i take of my intake to clean it. well i used just a little to much filter oil on the air intake filter. and i put some inside of the filter as well yes i know, dumb.
But anyways, so i let it sit out for a day and though it was dried enough to put back on the G. WELL i put it on, start the car up. Im sitting there, the idle is fine and then all of a sudden the idle is a little off. It goes up, then down then up then down to almost a stall, but then it catches and goes back up. i sat there idling for about 10 minutes
So i let it go and i drive a little hard. thinking maybe it'll get better. i Get home and while its cooling down( i havent turned the car off yet) and the idle is still a little funny. i turn it off not thinking to much of it.

So than the next day im heading to work and i notice my check engine light is on. so after work a me and a buddy of mine rip apart the the intake system, all the way to the throttle body and clean it all. the pipe, the throttle body and the MAF (it was pretty much covered in red filter oil) the piping had a little red filter oil in it and the throttle body was pretty dirty. but we get it all back together and start it. the idle isnt as bad as it was before, but is still would bog down a little then go up a little high. and my check engine light is still on.

Cleaning items used were:
club soda- for the piping and rubber thingys that connect everything
A RAG
CRC throttle body cleaner- to clean the throttle body
CRC MAF cleaner-to clean the MAF


SOOO now im at home and i have disconnected the battery, doing the ECU reset. and HOPING that it does the trick.

But my question for you folks is:
what do you think could've happend?
what could still be wrong?
what are somethings i could do to fix this?
Could it be the idle that needs to be fixed? if so how do i do that procedure.
(isnt there some reset procedure to fix the idle throttle position or something like that? i cant remember what it was called.)

and be willing to ask any questions if i have not made this post clear
(ive yet to get the engine code yet, hoping that the ECU trick will work and that i wont need to go use one from the local O'Reilly store. if not, ill have to stop there on Saturday and see what the codes are)

 

I wouldn't freak out, just a dirty MAF sensor. If the MAF cleaner wont do the trick, a new MAF should fix it. Even a slight film left over on the MAF will send goofy signals to the ECU. If you have a friend nearby with a G or Z you could put his MAF in your car in a few minutes to test.

I would completely clean the filter and apply less oil too (you may have said you did that?)

 

hold your maf the way it would be in the car and spray it with brake parts cleaner. Dont let the cleaner run back into the maf itself, it wont really harm it and it will evaporate fairly quickly but why risk it. But brake parts cleaner always works well. Side note, DO NOT use brake parts cleaner on your TB, it will remove the film from the manufacturer. hope this helps.

 

but i cleaned to MAF twice. and i drenched it. First time i get it out, look at it and there is some red oil all over, so i take the MAF cleaner and i hosed it down. than i let it sit ( i had to run to walmart to get a tool) and then when i came back, i drenched it again.




So what the difference between the MAF cleaner and break parts cleaner?
and like i said, i drenched the MAF on two seperate occasions.

 

the ECU reset worked. all is well now. thanks

 

If you still have issues

Maybe you need to reset ecu, relearn, idle and all that jazz. Search it up and see if that fixes your issue.



How to reset your ECU and perform the Throttle Pedal Release and Idle Air Volume Learning procedures on an Infiniti G35

Before attempting any of the following procedures, it is advisable that you read through the instructions thoroughly and familiarize yourself with them.

A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. 1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

( this is from nicoclub.com)

 

Faiz, that helped a lot actually and saved me some googling haha i had a little idle bounce myself after changing my intake setup and this solved that. Thanks.