I have an 03 with ~170k miles on it. It recently started overheating while idling for over 20mins with a/c on. According to my odb2 sw it gets to about 240f. With a/c off it will drop.

But Now I have an even bigger problem, now it will shut off at low speed with foot off pedal. I tried to pull codes and got nothing. A couple weeks ago I cleaned the TB and everything seemed ok. Idle rpm was perfect.

Today I was driving and the car was stuttering at 40mph. It did this a few times and when I came to a stop the car shut off twice. shut the car off for 20mins and was able to drive home with no problems.

I don't think this is a TB problem but either the cam/crank sensor or MAF problem. My question is there a cam or crank sensor that usually goes bad? or will it be either one? And has anyone tried cleaning the sensors?

I plan on cleaning the condenser and changing the coolant for the overheat problem. I guess cleaning the maf and maybe the cam/crank sensors if possible.

Also has anyone bought the re-manufactured TB from rockauto? is it any good?

Thanks

 

If you followed the correct procedure for cleaning the TB then the TB should be fine.

1) Disconnect Battery
2)Unplug Wire
3)Clean TB
4)Reconnect wires
5)Perform the Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure
6)Perform Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
7)Perform Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It's helpful when doing that to have a stopwatch.

Also try some fuel system/injector cleaners from companies like Redline and Chevron.

If it's overheating then the coolent in the radiator probably needs to be changed again or the fan is broken.

 

Cam phase sensors go out and can exhibit jerky/stalling behavior

There are 2 of them and unless they are kicking a code no real way to determine which is your problem.

Overheating issue could be many things. Probably best to start with a pressure test and see if it is leaking first. No sense in repeating unnecessary things, ie: changing/filling coolant.

 

I guess I was right about the cam sensor. Today the problem decided to show itself on the scanner . First it came up as a pending dtc p0340 then on my way back from getting the parts from autozone the car starting jerking while driving ~35mph and the ses/slip lights came on. I barely made it back home and even into my garage. The scanner shows p0340 as a current fault.

 

yeah, cam sensors are common

did you resolve your overheating issue? find a leak?

 

My 03 overheated after extended idling or stop n go traffic in hot weather. The dealer said it was bc my clutch fan and my thermostat wore out. That was at 127K.

 

I am having a similar powerloss / studder when at mid to low throttle and mid to low rpms but only when taking corners... It feels a lot like when my pass side cam sensor failed but like you no check lights. It seems to be getting worse. Lmk if your problem comes back. I am going to start a thread if new cam/crank sensors don't fix the issue... I figure at 108k I should just replace them.

I am glad to see your car lasting as long as it has (gives me hope).

The overheating is prob caused by a failing thermostat, a failing water pump, a pressure leak or needing to bleed the system (air). Is your fan turning on? If it isn't one of these check the coolant for oil and check the oil for coolant (mayo) and the dipstick for bubbles. If none of these get test coolant for exhaust. That should pretty much cover any and all cooling system issues. Start small and check things twice after a long drive.

 

For the sensors I would change all of them for the hell of it. I have no idea why just one faulting sensor would leave you stranded. The older cars ran fine with just one..
My parts store brand sensor works just fine and I will be changing the rest.

I changed my coolant last week and haven't noticed any problems since. The coolant was about 3yrs old so it was time to be changed anyway. I live in central FL so a slightly weak cooling system will have a pronounced effect.
But so far so good, no signs of a blown HG and fans work. Though I'm not sure if the fan clutch operation works 100% as I don't think there's and easy way to check it other than seeing it spin.

 

3 yrs isn't a crazy amount of time for coolant. I'm sure there are many on the board here who have 7+ years and some probably in harsh climates.

I have heard of small leaks forming at the rear of the motor where the hard lines come into the engine. Pressure test should be done just to double check it all.