My bet is there is not enough fuel (pump/injector related) or its in the ignition system.

 

update. brought it to japtrix for a leak down test and everything is tip top. no leaks no valve issues no compression issues. Roger is scratching his head and can only point a finger at the ECU being bad. hes hooking up a haltech to it adn seeing if that resolvles the problem.

 

ok. bringing yet some more comedy to this situation - i picked up my car today- long story short NO FIX - NO SOLUTION. With the haltech installed, the car wouldn't even start. apparently the haltech needs both crank and cam sensor signals to be in sink in order to fire. the stock ecu only uses the crank sensor. that being said and another $500 bill later, i decided to pull the plug in his investigation becuase i just cant afford 500 here and 500 there for guesses and assumptions. Basically the leak down and compression showed that everything was great. now the only sure thing i know certainly is that the cam signal isnt sending equally correct signals to the ECU. that is the reason the haltech wouldn't work but would that explain why im losing 200whp? who knows.... the only thing i have left to check are the cam sensors for the side that isnt sinking and or the cams them selves not being in the correct way...which i highly doubt.....other than that, if it doesnt work-stay tuned for a massive part out.

 

most likely the cams like you guys are alluding to. seems like they aren't timed properly, sensors dead or phasing is otherwise way off / not advancing. if the ECU isn't getting proper signals it can't make proper power. I would really focus efforts on the heads at this point.

 

Well I am taking off the valve covers and checking to see if the cams are in correctly. I feel that it's highly unlikely because when I took them off I marked them then zip tied them together per head. I ran a cam phase test to see how the marks are being read and I found something interesting. Bank 2 and 1 intake cams where showing up perfectly on phase. Bank 2 exhaust read perfectly along with the crank. All peaks and valleys matched however the exhaust phase on bank 1 read WAY off! It actually didnt even make sense how off it was the notches were not even reading they where showing up as jagged lines similar to a richter scale reading or polygraph test... Now what could this mean? Well, I know for a fact the timing is set cotrectly because I did it twice...so it has to be that stupid cam phase sensor on the bank sending the incorrect signal to the ecu making it pulsing the injectors and or firing the coils at the wrong time!!!! Hence the p0300! And lack of power..... I'm checking that first thing!

 

Ok I put new phase sensors in and it didn't do a thing. Still p0300 with in 3 miles. Gonna check the cams but I'm really not feeling that those are the issue.

 

roger said that the haltec wont start because it reads the cam phase and crank.. is that true, becuase that theory is really throwing me off my diagnosis. what would that even mean.. that my cam phase sensors are bad or my crank sensor... well i replaced both of those and it did the same. maybe a bad ECU? Bad wiring harness???? im hearing that we have very bad electrical problems from 05-07. ive exhausted every idea and am scratching my head,

i remember the first time i started the car after the second build it ran perfect for several miles however i had the vaccuum line for the waste gate on the front nipple and i kept geting severe boost spikes up to about 26 psi. obviously i didnt get on it hard but it still spiked. i didnt switch the wasgate vaccuum until i went for my tune. anyway... at the timeof first driving the car i had tried aftermarket headers. the drivers side wouldnt fit so i removed it and left the passenger side on.so i had only one factory header on the turbo side. now back to it running well. the first 50 miles were strong and good the car sounded great, then all of a sudden the engine light was on and thats when i threw my first code p2a03 and the car was running terrible.. starting stumbling and according to the AFR gauge, was extremely rich. i thought nothing of it and that it was simply the tune. i went to roger to have it baselined for driveablilty but he thought it was stranged that it changed from the provious time. anyway, after my 1000 miles break in, i went to tune and thats when i realized i had a problem.... now. would having 2 different headers and over boosting cause something to happen?????? fyi, i removed the after market header and have both stock ones on. i did this 3 months ago. i continued to have the p2a03 code... i also replaced both 02 and still came back, after some time, those codes went away perminently and replaced with random multiple misfire... this is my current code and doesnt go away.... this is the only code i have currently.

What in the hell could it be, honestly???? does it sound electrical ie. harness-ecu? or mechanical heads??? i feal like it could be either or. but most thinks its electric related. please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Here are some scenearios that are possible but not likely, bad TPS, knock sensor over torqued or bad ground. Also put dielectric grease between the spark plug and wire to make sure its not grounding out. Just trying to help out.

 

i had the p2a03 code and replaces that o2 sensor. i cleared the code and it hasnt came back yet

 

The p2a03 code is gone. I only have p0300. What would the knock sensor torqued to tight do? I will try putting some dielectric grease on the plugs. I'm going south to see Danny Aka Greengoblin to see if he can figure it out.....

 

i took it to danny today and he was super helpful in trying to diag the situation. he did some data logs with cipher and the results are deffinelty not in spec. we were both questioning the validity of the numbers in that they didnt really point to anything accept "something is wrong" which we oviously know...so, the timing read that it was off off, the ARF on bank 2 are way off, and there is an over correction in fuel big time. somewhat of what the tuner told me. he realized that bank 2 was always way lean so he had to correct and add 30% more fuel... yea not a good sign. that being said, he really feels like there is an electrical problem with the car. whether it be the ECU or engine wiring harness. the numbers are just way off from what is considered normal. it just doesnt make sense that the car would even be running. 64 degreees off timing??? yea i dont think so. cam phase sensors were also fritzy. intake on bank 1 was always flucutating at idle from .05-1.5 while bank 2 was 0.0

when doing a couple pulls and data loggin he did notice the funky sounding exhaust and obvious lack of power. strange. he did mention that heads being machined twice may have caused the timing to jump a tooth because the distance between the cams and block would change. however highly unlikely because the machine shop onl cleaned and checked the surfaces, not deck them.

 

As you probably know, the knock sensor is a microphone so if its overtorqued it will make it read to sensitive. This is critical to ignition timing. Pretty sure this is not your problem but worth checking to keep it w/in spec.. I believe the correct torque is 20nm (14.5 lbs).

I'd try to find someone with a spare ECU so you can swap and test it.

 

Yes your right, I wish I could find someone willing to swap computers for a few hours to check if the problem is fixed. The only problem is when it is swapped I will have to get it programmed so my car will start with it. Who could do that besides a dealer....

 

Correct you need a dealer to reprogram another ECU to work on your car. Or the doner ECU needs to have an Uprev flash specifically with NATS disabled.

 

yea. i feel like whats happening is ignition related. being that my gas mileage is poor so its obviously using gas but instead of being ignited its simply passing through without being ignited. (hense the raw gas smell) becuase it passes through the exhaust unused. this makes sense to me becuase of the AFR number under boost. when i am under partial throttle the AFR looks great and the car sounds ok but soon as i get on it it goes LEAN to like 13.5-14...there may be enough fuel being sparked for a small amount of boost, like 2-5 lbs, then soon as it climbs something is happening to ignition system by not allowing it to ignite at a certain time. the lean issue was always there since this problem started. even with the injector pulse at 80%! the car still went lean... something is deffinatly wrong with the spark... i just dont know what...