when i added my pop charger and z-tube i added an extra air duct to get more clean cold air to it. i used a NASCAR style air inlet plus some alum. duct material. after i cleared out all the extra air intake stuff (see pic #1) i had enough space to run the duct work from the lower grill (if you look real hard you might see it, i painted it black) up about 2 feet to blow onto the new filter.

 

baileyrx,

You notice any difference w/ the mod?? Most importantly performance wise, but sound wise any other difference that was noticeable??

 

no extra sound from the DUCT work at all, wheather it does anything???...but extra cold air directed at the air filter can't hurt!!! and for only $15.00 & 30-60 minutes. All the benifits of a "real" cold air intake without any water in my engine issues, I'll take it.

-JIM

 

now as for the pop charger & z-tube, yes extra preformance and yes extra sound. A nice howl when I punch it. Not to loud though... I'm not into the over the top sound.

 

arent u gonna hydro lock with rain running threw that lower grille lol =X

 

no the duct ends about 4-5 inches short of the filter (& underneath it). It's basically "shooting" air up at it. It probably works better the faster I go, as speed increases more air pushes into & then up the duct work. No real suction happening (like on the CAI) down low.

 

What if it's shooting water up at the pop charger?

 

hummmmmmmmmmmmm... it'd have to be some serious rain and wind. the duct takes a 45 degree to the right, then 5-6 inches of travel, then a 90 turn straight up for 1 to 1&1/2 feet. This still leaves 4-5 inches of open air til its gets to the filter. I've had this for about 1 & 1/2 years, and clean my filter regularly (every 6 months) and havn't noticed any problems yet. Lots of bugs though.

 

here's a picture from the wheel well looking at the grill from behind. I had to remove some foam from inside the bumper (like a small loaf of bread)

 

Yea your right.. Basically to hydrolock your engine with that extra setup you would need to b e going very fast with a direct stream of water being poured straight in.. Why? Because it ends 4-5 inches away from the filter and is not connected all in one like a full CAI so there is no suction at low speeds and works like he said at higher speeds where the wind and force is really strong and rushing through, there should be no problem at all!

 

The stock location of the intake is by far the best location for an air filter because that area on the grille and lower hood is a high pressure area that helps force air in a speed. The lower bumper is a low pressure area therefore there is no ramming effect. If anything, the duct work is doing is pushing some air around the filter. If you want a "ram air" setup, the intake tract needs to be located in a high pressure area and the intake needs to be completely sealed (like the stock intake) so that there is no pressure loss.

Honestly, the stock G35 is one of the best and least restrictive intake I've ever seen. I don't know you'd want to go and change it.

 

Agreed. That's why a lot of G35 people just get a Z-tube, K&N filter and call it a day. The Popcharger dealie isn't too bad either. But IMO spending a whole buncha money for a full CAI just isn't worth it for negligible gains.

 

Since the popcharger brings air to the MAF sensor that is 10 degree's hotter then what the oem intake manages, it would be interesting to get factual MAF sensor temp readings to see what impact if any this mod has on those temps. Though I would have picked a better inlet.

 

Believe me, the CAI is a big difference over stock! I did a dyno with just the CAI on and pulled my first run 237 rwhp and 244 torque then 231 hp and 240 torque, thats an automatic sedan!!

 

What was your baseline run before the CAI?