What was your baseline runs? How many baseline runs? And did you run your baseline runs on the same day or near the runs with the CAI? Hot ATF fluid will also play a big difference in fluctuating dyno nmbers for an auto car. Manual cars don't have that problem per se.

 

i'm gonna re-steal this thread. here's 2 more pictures of the "extra pop".

I'm also not sure I buy the "low pressure" idea. Our front end is not "that" aerodynamic, I'm pretty sure there is plenty of "free cool air" that this mod picks up. And like I said, it's 15 bucks, cheap & easy. Also any extra cooler air is always a good thing!!

 

G35s are some of the most aerodynamic cars on the road. The lower bumper splits the air around the side and the upper bumper, grille, and hood push the air over the car. Two of the worst air sources on a car are the lower bumper and the central portion of the hood. The most ideal spot for "ram air" is near the base of the wideshield with the intake actually facing the driver. There is a huge high pressure area there. Take a look at some of old school musclecars of the late 60s and 70s and you'll see that the "ram air" scoops typically faced rearward. With that said, there is some air movement along the lower bumper because many performance cars do have brake ducts in the outside corners of the bumper.

What you're going to find withe your setup is that it's going to throw a bunch of grime on your filter in wet weather when the car in front of you is throwing up mist and road grime.

You can be assure there is absolutely no ramming effect occuring though and that your filter isn't going to get as much ambient air as with the stock setup.

 

well a couple of things:
- i've had this set up for over a year. no water or extra grime on filter
- engineers are not always the be all to end all.
-our plenum doesn't give a couple of cylinders enough air. kind of a big miss in the tech dept.
-our brake aren't the best
-camber issues
I'm sure there's more I missed...
-which muscle car air scoops? I'm pretty into the muscle car scene, I can't recall any facing rearward? w-30 isn't rearward (so that doesn't count)
-I "can be assure there is absolutely no ramming effect". huh? how do you know?

I guess i need a little wind thingy in there to measure wind speed... then maybe I'll make believers out of all ye non-believers.
or we can just race!

 

P.S.
I still have the original palstic air collector just above the center grill & below the very front of the hood, collecting and sending air ---> that way to the filter.
so take that.....

 

You'd be surprised at just how smart those engineers are. They spend hundreds of thousands of dollars perfecting intake systems. If they thought a Home Depot intake scoop was the way to go then I'd think they would have done it.

Olds W-30? There were quite a few musclecars in the late 1960s and early 1970s that had rearward facing ram air and the more well known "cowl induction" setups. Two that quickly come to mind are the 1970 Tran Am Ram Air and the infamous Chevelle SS 454.

Your airbox is completely open. In order to take advantage of any sort of "ramming" effect, the intake must be sealed between the pressure area and filter. Having an exposed filter and open airbox negates any sort of pressure buildup.

I've experimented with all sorts of intakes on my Maxima including POPs, hybrids, and CAIs. It turns out that the stock intake with the stock resonator is the way to go in terms of the best ET/MPH and best driveability. I've always run the quickest and fastest with the nasty looking stock intake. Turns out Nissan's engineers know a thing or two about intake engineering. Next time you look under the hood of a BMW M-series, take note of the intake setup. You'll see that it's exactly like the stock G35 intake. If it's good enough for Germany's finest, then I'm sure it's good enough to fill the lungs of mass produced 3.5 V6.

 

When I said I would have picked a better inlet I in no way was implying you didn't pick a high pressure zone. I'm saying their are better inlet's or scoops that are out their that's all. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

We've tested the pop chargers air temps and discovered that it brings in air temps that are 10 degree's hotter then what the oem intake does. Your mod should work to help close that gap. Only real MAF temp readings can tell how much. But it's safe to say it will not out do the oem intakes ability to draw cold air, NO aftermarket does in a meaningfull manner.

 

hey g,
where do I buy one of those gizmos that plug into some port in our car that gives some real time info? I remember reading a thread elsewhere where a member had one. And if you know how much do they cost?

 

DaveB,
Good examples;
The cowl induction on the ss & trans am were both selenoid activated at "like" 75%+ throttle. The also had special gaskets on top of the regular air filter cover. When the cowl was not activated the engine used air that came through the "horn" which drew air directly from the engine bay(yikes). At the time thay hadn't figured out that the best place to get air was from the front of the car. They borrowed this idea from the camaro when chevy was looking for ways to make there NASACAR & Trans Am series (late 60's) cars more competitive. The public loved the mean look. It worked better with a retooled hood to help get the swirl effect at the end of the hood & base of the windshield. This swirl effect was much better for proper(smooth) air intake directly into the carb, as opposed to forcing turbulent air straight thru like on the cobras.

In my car I wasn't going for the ram effect, moreover, just getting some cooler air to my filter, again like I said earlier. I love the sound of my z-tube & pop charger, but just didn't like the fact that it wasn't sealed off from the hot engine bay. This was a try at "leveling the field". The duct I selected was actually an NASCAR duct from a car builder here in central NC. And yes the aluminum duct was from H.D. (busted there) I'm going to buy an hand held anemometer(that wind thingy I mentioned), and monkey-rig it the the top of my duct work & run some test to see if I get any substantial air movement.

 

How about an idea...

With the setup you have now, why don't you seal it in a box like stock, then put the aluminum duct into the box. Now you can put a couple of net screens into the duct to keep any debris out of the filter. The filter will take care of the smaller particles that will make it through. This way you can get more of the ram affect in there.

Just an idea.

 

Although it seems like a fun project, I really don't see any benefit of this over the stock airbox with K&N and z-tube which already offers higher flow and lower temperatures. Unless you are also upgrading the other restrictive parts of the intake system (MAF, plenum, etc) I don't think there will be much difference.

 

plus to actually hydrolock which is when the filter sucks in water instead of air, the filter has to be mostly submerged and with ur current set up it would be mighty hard to submerge the filter in enough water for it to suck water in instead of air