Overheating mystery, need some help
#16
Had to do this last fall, pain in the butt to burp the system. I just parked on a slope with the funnel in, let it warm up, and rev to 2.5k multiple times. For some reason our cars are really hard to burp, I had to do this while releasing the relief valve 6-7 times to get rid of the "waterfall behind my dash" noise.
#20
I drove ttrank's car solo
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You don't want to burp/bleed the system until everything's back together. With the motor cold, take off the radiator cap, start the car and let it warm up. Check the coolant overflow tank to make sure it's between full and empty and fill the radiator through a funnel slowly if it needs more fluid. Then hit the bleeder screw mentioned earlier in the thread, opening it slowly to let any trapped air out of there until coolant comes out in a steady flow with no air bubbles.
Tighten the bleeder screw, put the rad cap back on, and check your results. For the next couple of days, check the level of the coolant in the overflow tank and radiator when the car's cold and fill if necessary. Then you should be good to go.
Tighten the bleeder screw, put the rad cap back on, and check your results. For the next couple of days, check the level of the coolant in the overflow tank and radiator when the car's cold and fill if necessary. Then you should be good to go.
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tiguy99 (03-13-2021)
#21
I just posted another thread on this problem. I guess it is just a PITA to get all the air out of the system. I have drained and filled it twice! put on a new T-stat. Still heater only works in short bursts and the car is running really hot at hwy speeds. I pray that it is just air, other wise I made an expensive mistake buying this car. That being said, it all worked great until I had a local mechanic drain and fill the coolant system :/
#23
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#28
Day 3 ... what next
just like everyone else i'm having a "no heat in lower hose" problem (replaced thermostat with Gates brand) but that is my only problem. i got hot air in the cabin and both my fans are turning on low then ramp up to full speed when my car gets quite hot. Note: also replaced my ECT due to rough/ random misfire while cold (fixed). i've bled the coolant system multiple times with the spill free funnel and also front end in the air 2.5 feet. i'm pretty damn sure there is no longer air in the system Talking with the other mech in the shop at work, he was thinking it may be a faulty water pump (doesn't look fun to do) or a plugged up OEM rad. i hate throwing parts at ir.
When you guys are burping the system with the spill free funnel and rev the motor, does your coolant level in the funnel drop a bit from the initial revs?? like an inch or so?? Mine is not and i'm thinking my pump is not moving coolant enough. Would i still get some sorta heat in the lower hose IF the radiator was clear/flowing and thermostat open? She's my DD and i need to get her running happily again.
FIXED!!!! Replaced aftermarket thermostat with OEM from Nissan. If anyone is looking our OEM thermostats open at 170degrees F
When you guys are burping the system with the spill free funnel and rev the motor, does your coolant level in the funnel drop a bit from the initial revs?? like an inch or so?? Mine is not and i'm thinking my pump is not moving coolant enough. Would i still get some sorta heat in the lower hose IF the radiator was clear/flowing and thermostat open? She's my DD and i need to get her running happily again.
FIXED!!!! Replaced aftermarket thermostat with OEM from Nissan. If anyone is looking our OEM thermostats open at 170degrees F
Last edited by AutoX Junkie05; 02-13-2016 at 10:04 AM.
#29
I'm having overheating problems on my 04 coupe. Coolant one day just drained out and radiator blew. I changed thermostat, radiator, and water pump. Top hose from radiator heats but bottom one stays cold. I have bleed it with a spill free funnel and still no help. It does not overheat on the spot but once I drive it for 5 min. Any one have some advise?
#30
Try bleeding it again... Use the tip by blue dream post on "You don't want to burp/bleed the system until everything's back together. With the motor cold, take off the radiator cap, start the car and let it warm up. Check the coolant overflow tank to make sure it's between full and empty and fill the radiator through a funnel slowly if it needs more fluid. Then hit the bleeder screw mentioned earlier in the thread, opening it slowly to let any trapped air out of there until coolant comes out in a steady flow with no air bubbles.
Tighten the bleeder screw, put the rad cap back on, and check your results. For the next couple of days, check the level of the coolant in the overflow tank and radiator when the car's cold and fill if necessary. Then you should be good to go."
If all else fails do an engine pressure test for leaks or head gasket problems.
Tighten the bleeder screw, put the rad cap back on, and check your results. For the next couple of days, check the level of the coolant in the overflow tank and radiator when the car's cold and fill if necessary. Then you should be good to go."
If all else fails do an engine pressure test for leaks or head gasket problems.