I just had my t-stat changed and it seems the temp gauge is acting funny now.. To me it's still running on the high side of the temp gauge right below the threshold.

Does anyone know what the temp range for the t-stat to open up..

I checked both fans and they turn on.
I had a pressure test done and there was no leaks. Any tips that you guys might have for me would be appreciated.

 

Hey Sean.

95% of the time, it's air in the system.

Since you have already checked the fans (mine gave up on me, one would go 2/3 of the original speed, the other would go and stop, so I was experiencing overheating and swapped the whole shrould out), and I assume that you have the radiator filled and the overflow tank with fluid at the right level)

Have the sytem bled, and it shouldn't be a problem anymore.
Remember that the neddles are weighted to the center, so if you are having high levels, that means the temp. is pretty drastically higher than it should be. I would take care of it ASAP.

 

hey there Conrado,

Yea, I'm starting to think it's air bubbles. So took it on the interest to see if I could "flush" them out. I think that might have worked, cuz I have not had high temperatures since then. I still might take it to the dealership and get a coolant flush and let them figure it out. I have not went to far in the car cuz I'm not 100% sure of it yet..

If I get another high temp spike I will take it in. Is there a bleed value somewhere? That I can do myself instead of taking it to the dealer?

 

To properly do it, you have to raise the car, put a funnel in the radiator neck, add distilled water and rev for a while, so I'd say just take it to a place or Danny.

There is also a bleed valve, but you realistically have to do both.

 

Ok bro.. I'll do it.. I think the air bubbles are out now.. cuz the car has not ran hot since.. and the temp gauge in right in the middle.. I have not drove the car far so I still don't know yet, but right now it seems ok.

 

If you've not got any fluctuation on the gauge anymore, i wouldn't bother trying to bleed it and tempt fate.

 

^ Yea, I'm not gonna push my luck with it.

 

The air bubbles *can* work themselves out sometimes...if not though, the bleeder valve is a great option.

From experience, its best to run the car to operating temp then open the valve VERY SLOWLY. You will hear the air start to hiss out. Don't unscrew it all the way or it will pop out. When it starts hissing wait--then when you hear the coolant start to come out close the valve. Repeat this step a few time with 5-10 min intervals. It has always worked for me.

Alternatively, when i bought the Lisle spill free funnel its much easier


You should be ok if the needle doesn't move. You should note that the lower radiator hose is hot which indicates thermostat is open and flowing properly.


As a side note, from watching the temps on my car closely, The needle doesn't begin to move until you hit 221* F. Thermostat opens at 170* (except for the mechanical fan equipped sedans which opens at 180*). In this operating range the needle is pegged in place and doesn't move.