My buddy and I did a clutch replacement last month and found that the housing that holds the release bearing was not sliding on the input shaft freely due to lack of lube. The input shaft requires a minimal amount of high heat grease to alow free movement of the release bearing. He had an issuse when he was driving hard with rev matching and quick shifting. After we installed the new ACT sprung street clutch with propper lube, there has been no problem since. That COULD be your issuse.

 

I had this issue also, once I started replacing the clutch fluid (along with the brake fluid) every year, I have never had that problem again. 130K with same mater/slave. I did replace the line with SS braided one when I had the JWT clutch pack installed about four years ago.

 

This is the HR/VHR hose, we have them the same way for the DE models.

 

I had the clutch pedal sticking issue a couple of weeks ago. It seemed to happen if its really cold outside (under 60F) or if you are shifting a lot in traffic or riding the clutch pedal.

I took it to a local transmission shop and they told me the clutch is at its limit and needs to be replaced? They wanted to charge me $1200 for a new clutch--WTF!
I told them the clutch doesn't slip at all, its just the clutch pedal sticks and doesn't go all the way back up sometimes.

This thread was a big help. I got my clutch fluid changed at a different shop for $70 (since I don't have the time nor help to do it myself) and that solved the issue.

I also discovered that its better if you don't ride the clutch pedal during long pauses when driving. Meaning, if you are slowing down to a stop and not sure if you have to downshift or shift to Neutral, don't ride the clutch. Just depress the clutch all the way in, put the gear in Neutral, and release the clutch quickly. When you know you have to move again, then shift to the appropriate gear.

 

my Car is at 85k and on its 4th clutch. I've tried stainless steel lines, aftermarket slave/master, high end fluid, everything. The pedal never stopped intermediately sticking and burning up the clutch.


The most recent job, at about 83k I replaced everything, master, slave, clutch, and flywheel, all OEM. Last time I cut the flywheel instead of replacing it, so i have my fingers crossed, but dont want to get my hopes up. I have 24k mile warrently on the new clutch, but i swear if it sticks and slips again I'm selling this car and never buying another nissan. I took it in several times before the warranty was up, there's no excuse for this ****.

 

go back to regular non synthetic fluid.

 

Have people been getting better results with regular fluid? Any links? thx

 

No I picked up some Lucas dot 4 synthetic and realized it had a lower boiling temp.

 

Hey guys, im having a problem with the clutch. It started happening about 2 weeks ago while i was driving my shifts started to become a lot rougher. Now it only happens in the mornings or when i go to drive the car and its been sitting for a few hours. But the pedal comes up about half way and when i go to press it down it feels like the clutch isnt engaging all the way and its its really hard to shift. I almost have to force it into gear (one night at a light i couldnt get it into gear and ended up stalling the car, i had to put it in first before starting the car up) After about 15 min of driving the pedal comes back to its usual firmness and the shifts are fine.

1st gear is the roughest too. Goin from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd isnt as bad.

i replaced the clutch about 20k miles ago and its not slipping. The fluid in the master cylinder looks fine and hasnt changed color. Both master and slave cylinder look fine and dont show any leaks at all.

What do you guys think it is? I was going to just replace the master and slave cylinder because im not sure what else it could be. Can the cylinders fail on the inside without any fluid leakage?

 

Change the Trans oil

 

If its not the actual clutch and just the clutch pedal giving you issues, you can try a couple of things:

- Flush the clutch fluid and refill with new fluid. Make sure there are no air bubbles in the system. This may or may not solve your issue but its a good place to start.

- If the problem persists or comes back after a few days, you may have to replace the Clutch master Cylinder. This is what I ultimately had to do for mine when the clutch sticks esp in hot days or when the engine gets hot (on cold days or mornings). So far it has solved the clutch pedal sticking issue for me and I get a positive resistance/pressure from the pedal. This may cost a little more money though. It cost me just under $300 for a shop to do it, but it was well worth it for me.