After looking at the custom bracket idea by another forum member, I thought I'd give it a shot. Only needed these few parts:

1) Fuse piggy-back module from Pep-Boys ($12)
2) Scrap piece of aluminum strip from hardware store ($2.50)
3) Wire connector from Radio Shack (to run V1 power lead into fuse module) ($.50)

I started by running the power line supplied in the V1 starting at the mirror, tucking it under the top molding all the way down until I hit the side cover. Popped off the cover with light pressure, continued to wrap the cord around the wires that were already being hidden under the cover. Then I threaded the line down through the console area using a long stick and then popped the side cover back into place.

Next I needed to give her some power, so I found an empty fuse slot with switched power in the driver's side fuse panel, plugged in the piggy-back module and hooked it up to the V1 connectors and tucked all that stuff out of sight. Tested it and V1 now correctly powers on and off by the ignition.



Ok time for a bracket. I wanted this because suction cups always eventually get tired and give in. I sawed a strip of aluminum to the same width as the mirror clip-on bracket, dulled and sanded the edges nice and smooth, then bent it into a simple V shape. The thickness of the strip was a perfect fit and went snugly into the stock V1 cover, and the other end I applied a couple strips of 3M sticky tape. The V bracket keeps the end of the V1 very close to the windshield so it does not stick out too far still allowing the mirror to drop down fully, and also works as a good shock absorber for the unit. When I press the button to change modes, the metal flexes but still feels solid, instead of putting pressure on the suction cups which eventually always leads to failure.



Overall it was pretty easy and I'd highly recommend it. The aluminum bracket fabrication was very simple and does not require any special tools, just a mini hacksaw, file, and some sandpaper. The wires are almost completely invisible and the V1 is very solidly attached and can be removed easily.

 

did you mount the remote display anywhere?
I was thinking of cutting the upper vent on the left side of driver seat and sitcking it in there.. or on top of the vent on the right side of the driver seat.

are you going to install a laser jammer and police scanner too?

 

Excellent job! I just picked my new G up on Saturday, and one of the first things I thought of was how to hardwire my V1. So you saved me a search, thanks.

One question: which A-pillar did you route the wires through, driver side, or passenger?

 

I haven't added the remote display yet, may do that at a later time. I used the driver's side pillar as the fuse box is just below it. The amount of cable that came with the V1 turned out to be the perfect length for the route I used as well.

 

I'm glad you got around to doing the mount. As I said, it's not that difficult, just not worth doing commercially. I've had that type of mount in my cars since '98. The last one I did, I made of 2 pieces of steel braised together, then hardened. Makes for a very rigid, no-flex mount! Aluminum is the way to go for an easy 1 step mount, and what I did on previous cars. BTW, it's better if you grind a small dimple where the visor mount can 'snick' into.

It's nice being able to mount/dismount the V-1 in less than 3 seconds (including power) using only one hand isn't it? Also, everything's aligned and ready to go without fiddling with suction cups and worrying that it'll fall off the windshield! BTW, if you find that the power cord slips out of you head liner trim a lot, just cut a short piece of 1/4 tubing or similar and jam it in there to hold the power cord.

 

I don't think a jammer is necessary, and really don't feel they are all that effective. The radar detector tells me all I want to know, no need to resort to illegal devices that cripple the law enforcement's instruments, then I'd be clearly interfering and preventing them from doing their job. Can't really do any harm with just a receiver!

I bought the V1 to

1) keep me more aware of how fast I am going at all times
2) allow me a better opportunity to avoid getting caught in questionable speed traps
3) when I do get tagged I can double check my speed and make sure it corresponds to what I was ticketed for
4) help educate me on how law enforcements operates

 

does the V1 have a remote mute button type of thing like the X50?? cuz it would be annoying to have to reach over everytime it beeps

 

laser jammers aren't illegal bro...
and they have been effective in tests. the ones that work(Escort, Bel)
I thought protecting and serving is their job anyway. so in a way your discouraging them from giving tickets to 10 over by not being a victim and making them do their real job... going after drugdealers/burglars/killers/rapists.

V1 has a remote mute on the remote display.

 

Well one of them is illegal, be it radar or laser, doesn't really matter which to me, because I personally don't worry about being ticketed for 10 over and know that most judges will throw the charge away if contested.

Also, in case you didn't know, there are law enforcement specifically allocated to do traffic, just as there are those looking for drug dealers and other criminals, so sorry that argument doesn't really hold up either.

 

Not only does it have a mute button, but the entire display is duplicated on the remote display, including the 11 level auto-dimmer.

If you get the Remote Audio Adapter, you get a speaker and two headphone jacks and remote control of all Control **** and Lever functions including mute and computer modes!

These allow you to stealthily mount the V-1 at the rear of the car if necessary, and control/monitor the unit from the driver's seat. Try that with the Escort!

 

Do you remember which fuse spot you used?

I didn't know Pep Boys carried a fuse add on power device. That is cool.

Thanks for the post - Looks great.

Kevin

 

You can kinda see from the pic, on mine it's the 5th slot from the end on the right side, next to the O2 sensor. I would not trust all cars to have the same configuration though, so to be sure just hook up a voltmeter and test the empty slot to be sure it is indeed 12v switched power.

Also, PepBoys had two kinds of fuse units that I saw, a regular one and a mini version, go with the mini version as it fits perfectly and has everything you need, oh and it's cheaper too =)

 

Hey by any chance, do you have a pic of where you hid the wires? im reall interested in seing how you did that part.

 

yeah I know they are assigned to traffic to make money for the city.
What i was hinting is that it would make them have to go actually fight real crime. do something worth while besides busting people for going 10 over.(Judges here never throw out a ticket. they want the money).

It's convinient how when my house was broken into and everything stolen that it took 2 hours for cops to show up to file a report. Especially when I saw one giving a ticket on the other side of the street. In my experience they are never around when you actually need them.

besides
There's nothing wrong IMHO with speeds of 70 - 80. but cops around here will bust you for 68 without blinking a eye. and don't even get me into how those speed trap towns are. Their courts are only open like 3 hours of the day. They make it impossible to call them and if you try to fight it they never send you the letter so you end up with a warrant so you can give them even more money.

 

Yea I hear ya, sometimes it's hard to make sense of how they do things.

How do you like the Beartracker? I know it's been out for a while, I'm wondering if most of the juicy communication gets digitally scrambled nowadays, or is there still quite a bit of police chatter out there in the clear...