So quick summary
2003 6MT V35 (JDM)
New Competition Flywheel and Stage 2 Clutch (new slave, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, Chrome molly pivot bolt etc)
Complete engine rebuild inc cams, rods/pistons, uprev oil pump etc
HKS ST 3037 Kit upgraded turbo CHRA to 3582 and FMIC
Stage 2 AAM Fuel Return System, DW 300ltr pump
DW 800cc injectors
1 Step cooler NGK Iridium Plugs
Utec with MAP sensor and Map selector, 750cc Greddy tune off website uploaded
Zeitronic Zt-2 Wideband with EGT
Boost Gauge with Oil temp and Oil Pressure

So engine was built professionally and injectors installed, i put on turbo kit, installed RFS, dad did flywheel and clutch and we put engine and trans back in. I did wire tuck also.

So with everything connected and Utec on, we take out spark plugs and crank over until oil light goes of. Put spark plugs back in with coil packs and it sounds like it wants to fire but wont..

Tried:
Just using stock ECU - hope this will not fry it as im using larger than stock injectors?
Tried 550 and 750cc tunes off Utec site
Double checked firing order
- everything above made no difference

Took coil pack off spark plug, got spare spark plug and turned over engine while spark plug in coil pack and letting it arc to engine block with screw hole grounded and it only sparks ONCE, none after...


I asked a Friend what could be the problem, he suggested to make sure flywheel was located on the crank pin locator, otherwise car wont start. i asked dad and he said oh **** i didnt see one, so we look at the old engine and behold there is a fricken alignment hole/pin i cant remember at the back where the flywheel bolts on.

Edit: i took out trans, flywheel was not aligned, engine builder had hammered in the locating pin, but the flywheel is now in the right position, back in, STILL HAVE SPARK PROBLEM...

What else could cause it only to spark the once?

 

I don't understand your last question
can you rephrase it.
how long do you crank the engine over and only see it speak once?
are all your ground good?
did you use new coil packs?

 

Ignore last sentence, it was about making sure flywheel was located using the alignment pin on the rear of the engine which it wasnt. It is now !

i cranked it over like 20seconds waiting for another spark.

Used previous coil packs which never had a issues.

I replaced the passenger side crank angle sensor and it ran for like max 2 mins. then it stalled and i swapped the other side sensor and no go.

Got p0340 error code (original sensor i swapped so i used another one) this time i now get p0350 error..

How many ground points are there? i did a wire tuck so none of the brackets are used.

From memory there are
1. two grounds near the power steering pump that go to front of timing case and rear timing case
2. ground on the drivers side header manafold that goes to the engine bay (i have no attached this as the turbo pipe is in the way)
3. one ground from the wiring harness near the 2 and 4 coil pack that i screwed onto the rear timing case
4. i made a massive thick ground from neg term of battery to trans case
5. ground from molex connector of the utec ecu to chassis
6. ecu is count by its own loom and also by the mounting bracket.
7. zeitronix also has a ground to chassis.

Now engine was running until it stalled and at the time i was bleeding air from radiator and water was coming out of the bleed screw at the back (near the passenger side cam angle sensor) i did spray all connectors with electrical spray and leave it to dry.

 

definetly a cam - crank sync problem it sounds like, if your getting one spark your grounds are probably ok

 

Replaced both sensor and same issue :/

 

Timing chains could be off by 1 tooth. Not sure if engine would actually start, some will.

I have experienced similiar problems with other engines having timing belt/chain off by 1 tooth.

Recently installed another built engine in my car and had two coil wires swapped around, engine still started up, obviously it ran rough.

 

Got new haltech ecu, new passenger (jdm driver) and crank position sensor and still not going. Tuner now has car and things its either off by one tooth (it did run thou...) or the flywheel is not machined correctly or its the other sensor i didnt replace or the ones i did replace were damaged... The haltech is not getting rpm readings, i swapped over the new cam angle sensor with old one and them rpm started showing but dropped as soon as it hit 300 odd .. any ideas?

 

any known issues with competition clutch and our cars?

 

Check your grounds, i had a similar issue on a maxima where the spark would not fire because of poor grounds.

 

checked all grounds
1. ground on loom from headlights and washer bottle
2 + 3. ground from chassis to front and rear timing chain covers
4. ground on loom near coils 2,4,6
5. ground from other headlight and horn loom
6. ground from battery to chassis

^ any im missing ?

i also installed a additonal ground from batter to trans

Tuner said haltech is getting all the info so wiring is fine...

 

Update: Still not going...
New Haltech Plug in ecu - diagnostics tells the tuner its not getting cam angle sensor signals...
Got entire new set of sensors as it wasnt detecting the new bank 1 cam angle sensor so i got a replacement and also the bank 2 sensor and new crank position sensor
At the same time i ordered a GTM Exedy Twin Clutch as Haltech said it was the flywheel not being detected.

Spark plugs were fouled (some still looked unused) so got a new set LRF6AIX-11

Installed the flywheel making sure alignment pin was in right position, everything torqued, clutch was aligned with the flywheel correctly.

Started car, with clutch and sensors and plugs, no firing at all (previous just one cylinder wanted to).

Swapped the ecu back to OEM and now i can hear it trying to fire again..

WTF,,,

Spoke to a mechanic who had to fix a similar issue on a 350z, turned out the engine (Revup) had a rebuild and the mechanic mixed up the intake and the exhaust cams.. I had had pics taken while engine being built and i can see the cams on the intake side (where sensors are) have the 6 notches so its not that ..

Someone else said it may have been a security issue stopping the car from starting - any way to test this?

And another guy had a issue with crank position sensor needing to be moved on a angle, then it worked..

Is it likely timing is out? if it started in the first place could timing even be out (timing chain slip on brand new tensions and chains?)

This is BS.. sick of this ****ing car

 

DTC solenoids communicate w/ the Cam Sensors to check the angle of the cams. If the sensor is bad, or the solenoids are bad then you can have this problem.

It could be the ECU not recognizing the IR chip inside the key

Have you looked at the Crank fuse under the driver kick panel? Just to make sure its not bad. It can prevent spark.

If your chain was off by 1 tooth it would still start I think, but would run horribly. It wouldn't create a no spark issue. The crank position sensor would throw a P0335 code if it wasn't communicating properly.

 

Thanks for the reply !!
Ok i have a spare engine, ill take the DTC solenoids off and try them.

how do i fix the ECU not recognizing the IR chip inside the key ?
Doing this?
. ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE

1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.

Crank fuse, no i have not, what fuse number is it? mine is all in japanese :/
I did actually check all fuses when i was looking for reverse lights not working during this whole ordeal so dont think its that.. but ill check it again

Only codes i have ever got are p0340 and p0350

 

Not sure if you have it but I can email you the Body Control Module PDF file for our car. The file is part of the Nissan workshop manaul and is only 4.5mb which won't be an issue to email.

The BCM handles the NATS and runs in series between this and the main ECM.

Any other regarding electrical scematics, ignition etc. just let me know.