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Camshaft sensor problem

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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by thedesimones
I need help. I have identified that my Bank 2 camshaft sensor is faulty. Bought the sensor got everything off and got to the sensor. Now i am stuck b/c I can't separate the sensor from the pigtail (connector). I have thought about replacing the whole thing but you can't buy the connector. Any advice or ideas?
there's photo couple of messages above #9- read it

Originally Posted by bluedevils95
^ is that a p0021 code?
P0021 7,285 Views
Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 2

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/search_codes...#ixzz2eyss3aiQ
 
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #17  
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I just had mine fixed this month. If its not the back sensor or the sillanoid then it's the timing cover (if its a 2nd gen).
 
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 05:24 PM
  #18  
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P1078 Error Code Stays Alive Regardless - Help Please!

Originally Posted by bluedevils95
I just had mine fixed this month. If its not the back sensor or the sillanoid then it's the timing cover (if its a 2nd gen).
I'm resurrecting this thread, because I have the same issue, and have done the same (replaced exhaust valve timing sensor on passenger side) in trying to correct the same problems. Problems being, the Service Engine Soon light continues to stay on, even after I removed the negative battery cable for two days, actuated the brake pedal a number of times before re-connecting the cable, and the idle remains high, anywhere from 1,100 to 1,300 RPM.

I went through the procedures of Throttle Valve Closed Learning, Accelerator Pedal Position Learning, Idle Air Volume Learning, Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning, and Idle Speed Learning, but the Service Engine Soon light comes on, and the high idle problem remains.

I'm at my wit's end with Old Reliable (2006 G35 6MT, well-cared for, 124K miles), and would welcome any enlightenment and/or advice on how to remedy the above.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 04:06 PM
  #19  
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Hi. I have the same issue. I replaced crankshaft sensor. then i tried to put green connector back.
I hear the click but it does not stay put. I can easily pull it out with pressing green button.
Did i break it?

Now what should i do? buy a new connector?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 03:28 PM
  #20  
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Ugh

03 G35Sedan
had the vdc slip and check engine light pop up.
Replaced the passenger side cam sensor and it started right up without issue and lights went off. But I can’t drive above 3k rpms. Engine bogs down even at half acceleration still
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 03:58 PM
  #21  
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VDC/Slip lights are part of the steering angle, wheel speed, yaw control, traction control systems and are not related to the cam sensor in any way.

What diagnostic trouble code caused the service engine light to turn on? If you didn't get it scanned for the code then put the original cam sensor back in and get it checked, non-Nissan cam sensors are notorious for not working properly.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 04:00 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Damian Giffin
03 G35Sedan
had the vdc slip and check engine light pop up.
Replaced the passenger side cam sensor and it started right up without issue and lights went off. But I can’t drive above 3k rpms. Engine bogs down even at half acceleration still
There are three sensors- left, right and near drive shaft. Please replace the other two also.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 04:50 PM
  #23  
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Probably still have a bad sensor. Get codes read again.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 07:47 PM
  #24  
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No codes are active anymore. Before the code was p0340. Cam shaft position sensor bank 1. I’m a little tight on money so I attempted the auto parts store route for the sensor. Bought it and installed it. Cleared up every light. Only issue is I’m pretty sure the computer is not having its readings. So I’m gonna have to go oem. Anyone know where I can grab an oem for less than 130 lol. Also full intentions of replacing the other 2.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 10:32 PM
  #25  
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Amazon
 
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Old Apr 8, 2018 | 08:38 AM
  #26  
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Damian here's a link to the bank one sensor:
Amazon Amazon

It's a good idea to replace both and the bank 2 sensor usually hovers around $100 on Amazon as well.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2018 | 07:27 AM
  #27  
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Thanks blue! Those prices look much better than the 140 the dealership is asking for. I always rather go oem. But was in a bind this time.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 06:23 AM
  #28  
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No worries, for the bank 1 our local infiniti dealer wanted ~ $180 and Nissan wanted ~ $150. Amazon has surprisingly good prices on OEM parts and all the parts I have bought there come from dealers.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2019 | 11:45 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by G35_in_MN
I'm resurrecting this thread, because I have the same issue, and have done the same (replaced exhaust valve timing sensor on passenger side) in trying to correct the same problems. Problems being, the Service Engine Soon light continues to stay on, even after I removed the negative battery cable for two days, actuated the brake pedal a number of times before re-connecting the cable, and the idle remains high, anywhere from 1,100 to 1,300 RPM.

I went through the procedures of Throttle Valve Closed Learning, Accelerator Pedal Position Learning, Idle Air Volume Learning, Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning, and Idle Speed Learning, but the Service Engine Soon light comes on, and the high idle problem remains.

I'm at my wit's end with Old Reliable (2006 G35 6MT, well-cared for, 124K miles), and would welcome any enlightenment and/or advice on how to remedy the above.

Thanks in advance!
Sorry to bring this back from the dead...but I'm having the same issue...I threw P1078 and P1048...

Replaced both the sensors in the back but the P1078 came back. I can't figure it out.

Were you able to correct the issue?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2019 | 11:40 AM
  #30  
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Did you unplug the harness and read the wires back to the ECM to verify they aren't shorted up against something or broken and not sending a signal? If you used a Hitachi or OEM sensor and the problem still exists I would suspect the harness or wires are bad.
 
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