clutch getting "stuck"
#1
clutch getting "stuck"
So I noticed that my clutch feels kinda "sticky" sometimes when I drive. It's almost like it gets stuck halfway when I release the clutch. I also noticed that this usually only happens when it is hotter outside. When the clutch does get "stuck" halfway I put my foot under and push it up but I've driven on it without pushing it back up to see if it burns the clutch and it does not smell like the clutch is burning. Does anybody know what is causing this?
![Confused2](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused2.gif)
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
A good place to start would be to have your clutch fluid replaced, if it's never been done. The clutch pedal and assembly also have areas that need to be lubed every few years for better operation. If you complete both the above suggestions and you still have a "Sticky Clutch" the slave cylinder needs to be replaced. Old clutch fluid combined with extreme heat can easily cause the cylinder to fail!
Gary
Gary
The following users liked this post:
duhkorean (06-25-2013)
#5
I think we need a sticky post at this point for "my clutch gets stuck halfway up" posts. I just bled mine last month, it's now an annual maintenance item. I'll try to take some pics anyway and make up a better how-to post.
Easy fix is usually to bleed the clutch fluid. It's regular brake fluid, you don't need anything special. There's a bleed valve (like on your brake calipers) on the slave cylinder. Bleed the line from there until fluid is nice and clear, keeping the reservoir full of course. The clutch line goes right under the exhaust manifold/cat converters and is subject to high temps, this causes the fluid to "boil" and loose some of it's hydraulic capabilities.
You may come across a post about using a turkey baster and simply changing the fluid in the reservoir. That is a waste of time as it doesn't change the fluid in the lines which is what we care about here.
As Gary said above, if after flushing the clutch fluid, you're still having clutch issues, then there's other problems. Start with the simple first though.
Easy fix is usually to bleed the clutch fluid. It's regular brake fluid, you don't need anything special. There's a bleed valve (like on your brake calipers) on the slave cylinder. Bleed the line from there until fluid is nice and clear, keeping the reservoir full of course. The clutch line goes right under the exhaust manifold/cat converters and is subject to high temps, this causes the fluid to "boil" and loose some of it's hydraulic capabilities.
You may come across a post about using a turkey baster and simply changing the fluid in the reservoir. That is a waste of time as it doesn't change the fluid in the lines which is what we care about here.
As Gary said above, if after flushing the clutch fluid, you're still having clutch issues, then there's other problems. Start with the simple first though.
Last edited by LoSt180; 06-25-2013 at 09:27 AM.
The following users liked this post:
duhkorean (06-25-2013)
#7
You'll most likely need a master cylinder, Try the fluid first obviously but the masters are pretty prone to failure.
We make a better Wilwood Master Cylinder Kit for the DE model cars which cures the "Pedal Drop"
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Nis...er-ZSP2011.htm
We make a better Wilwood Master Cylinder Kit for the DE model cars which cures the "Pedal Drop"
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/Nis...er-ZSP2011.htm
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I had the same issue heading towards our forum member Brian Spilner to get my first iTrader point (yay!) on those cf oem ducts and noticed the issue you guys were experiencing... I was like wtf?! I pulled the clutch pedal towards me using my left toe and it unhooked itself, but damn... Time to get it checked, if it continues, will replace the cylinder. I've only had the car for 1.5 months so hopefully I keep it the next 10 years like how people keep their 240sx's in clean condition.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jbmw002
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
4
09-10-2015 12:54 AM