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Codes p0102, p0113, p0223, p0123, p2135, all TPS related what do I do?

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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #16  
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Sorry to hear that. At least you didn't pay $217 to find that out like I did! Haha

I'd jump for this TB next and give that a shot. Hitachi just like OEM.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-THROTTLE...9ae995&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #17  
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Haha thats why I went with your MAF first … is this worth it? Ill get it for $98 after savings http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ne_20960190-p#
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:57 PM
  #18  
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Since you're almost certain it's the TB, I'd get the Hitachi just to be done with it. If you just want to grab the AA to test though, it'd be an easy return. I wouldn't expect more than a year of use out of it though.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 09:59 PM
  #19  
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Yeah i think Ill try the one from AA to see if it works, they have a lifetime warranty also, hmmm. Ill end up getting hitachi if thats the problem! Thanks for the help
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #20  
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Okay so changed out with the TB I ordered (found out it is indeed Hitachi) and the hard start, loud sucking noise when I hit WOT and the not starting when warm still persists... What do I do((
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 06:00 AM
  #21  
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After all resets, are you still getting the original codes?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by brazen
After all resets, are you still getting the original codes?
No not on my original, only time I got codes was when I "chocked" the intake during startup like you would a carburetor engine
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 06:14 AM
  #23  
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Sounds like there's a serious vacuum leak. Check all hoses again, and re-torque all the inner upper plenum bolts to 80 in/lbs (NOT ft/lbs) and the outside upper plenum bolts to 100 in/lbs. I would do an ECU reset after that as well.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #24  
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I'll check that today, I just don't know why it doesnt start once its warm
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #25  
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This might be your issue:


https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...087&styleid=50

Solution at the bottom.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 12:12 PM
  #26  
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NWP time.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 01:08 AM
  #27  
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Thanks Brazen but i have changed my camshaft sensor's, then I fixed my timing problem and put the OEM's back on (that being that I used to have codes but no longer are present). Though I did check this weekend and there is a loud leak coming from one of the hoses, I would suppose a vacuum line. Not sure Thanks!!

And Urban what do you mean by NWP?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 08:36 AM
  #28  
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He's referring to an NWP throttle body. It won't help your situation since we've ruled out the TB as the issue, but a nice big bore TB nonetheless.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #29  
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Okay guess that'll be on the list when she's up an running haha, but I started the car and noticed a loud hissing noise, I'm pretty sure it's a leak but do you have any info on the location of vacuum lines?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2013 | 06:07 PM
  #30  
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It might be a split hose. Take the plastic engine cover off, and carefully spray throttle body cleaner around the engine systematically. After each spray, listen for the engine RPMs to change. Once you get the general area of the leak, if there is one, then you can narrow it down from there.
 
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