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Naturally Aspirated 03 coupe??? advice

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  #16  
Old 11-11-2013, 11:09 AM
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because iv only put up 5 things so far. okay so the manifold u say is a waste. but the rest is all part of the exhaust system set up, headers, y pipe for the single pipe. and a radiator....and u say the cams are are bad idea? or just hard to find the right people to tune it. because i was going to hit up a dyno shop after i got everything installed

the manifold is actually already purchased but everything else is still on hold.
 
  #17  
Old 11-11-2013, 11:16 AM
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Best N/A mod...LS engine.
 
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:18 AM
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Very few people have done cams, plus if you go large 280/280, you will end up loosing alot of low end power. Cams really only help at the top of the power band, which is semi-pointless for a daily driver G35. Plus if your tuner is unfamiliar (which he probably is) you may end up with alot of headaches. Plus you may have to replace your entire valvetrain.

Here is a thread for a guy that did the full list of almost every NA mod. He spent about 6k and gained 60hp.
http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/44...m-install.html

You should see what the return policy is on the intake manifold. Do NA mods ONLY to get the sound you like, if you want power then save up for a FI kit.
 

Last edited by WhosUrBuddiee; 11-11-2013 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Slammed_03
shooooti had no idea you could buy used super chargers and turbos that changes everything. so okay, is there anything out of the things i listed that i could use WITH a super charger or turbo? like what should i not buy. and which parts would help out with it.
It depends what your goals are for the car. A "beast" N/A build can cost as much as going FI. N/A is ultimately more reliable but it comes down to what your looking for.

Turbos are more expensive in the end because they require more supporting mods and aren't as easy to work with. The Vortech supercharger is the cheapest route for FI and will be safer on a stock engine. A professional and conservative tune will still allow plenty of life for the engine. $7-8K for a supercharged build will give you an easy 430whp, while keeping everything on the long block stock.

You can easily spend $2-4K on full bolt-ons (not including cams) and a tune which will put you in the 240-270whp range, depending on the dyno. And the SSV plenum is not a good option for N/A, the newer Velocity plenum is what Kinetix replaced it with due to a design flaw.

Again, it all comes down to how much your willing to spend and what you want out of the car.
 
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:08 PM
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i am of the opinion to do intake(stillen with z-tube), intake manifold spacer(motordyne 5/16 or 1/2 inch spacer), high flow cats/test pipes, exhaust, then a tune. or return everything and save for FI.
 
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Old 11-11-2013, 03:34 PM
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Herrschaft pretty much nailed it. Only think I would add is that NA isn't always more reliable. A bad tune can ruin a NA car just as fast as a FI car. It is why you would only get tunes from people who have experience with the VQ and good reputation. The reason FI gets a bad name is from people pushing getting shotty installs/tunes or pushing too much boost for a stock motor. There are many people on here and my350z running 100k miles on stock motor with mild boost (~8psi).

Also his 7-8k price range is only for new prices. Keep an eye out for kits being sold here in the marketplace. You can easily pick up a used vortech with orsis tuner for 4k.

Really you need to decide what your main goal is before you just go out and start buying random parts. You are going to end up wasting alot more money in the long run.
 
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:51 PM
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Dude just listen to James(whosurbuddiee) as he is giving you sound advise.Ive been in this game along time with this platform and trust me n/a gains are small and not worth your time or money.F/I is a total different story though and if you need help...i will help but not spoon feed you.
 
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Slammed_03
because iv only put up 5 things so far. okay so the manifold u say is a waste. but the rest is all part of the exhaust system set up, headers, y pipe for the single pipe. and a radiator....and u say the cams are are bad idea? or just hard to find the right people to tune it. because i was going to hit up a dyno shop after i got everything installed
the manifold is actually already purchased but everything else is still on hold.
Slammed, isn't it great to get so much advice? If you can cancel the manifold or return it that would be a really good idea! Single exhaust with high flow cats will work fine and sound good. Headers are cool and I've always had them on most of my American cars but on our VQ motors the cost to install and the results aren't worth the trouble! Cams, like I posted...not a good idea on a high mileage motor. Intake, plenum spacer and your exhaust including HFCs along with an Osiris tune is all you need for the street. Check the tech area for a tuner in your area. There's no way you could turbo or super charge a motor with your mileage and not rebuild everything! From what I understand that isn't in your budget...Gary
 
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2013, 04:58 PM
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I have to disagree with you on his mileage for boost. He is only at 71k and the motor should still be plenty strong.
 
  #25  
Old 11-22-2013, 02:09 PM
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alight guys i decided to keep with my plan on the N/A.....but i still need some advice or maybe some ideas on what else i should get to help out on top of what i already have...so heres the list. (03 G35 coupe)
stage 2 Exedy clutch
OEM flywheel
cold air intake ZTube
Nitto 666 staggered tires 245/275 with TSW Mallory 5's matte black
umm thats what i currently have installed. and this other stuff is the things iv already ordered and are waiting to be installed when i get home from Afghanistan in 14 days.

Kinetix SSV intake Manifold
PPE Engineering Long Tube Race Headers
AAM Competition Y-Pipe
AAM Competition 3 in. Single Exit Exhaust
Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator,
TOMEI PONCAM Camshafts,
NRG oil catch can
NRG coolant reservoir
Greddy Adjustable lowering springs... (im not really looking to drift so a normal lower was fine with me)
i bought it at 71k miles and i put 3 or 4k miles on it.

now im not looking for a turbo or anything what else can i do to improve? im more interested in small things mostly. and i know i need a tune but i dont wanna tune till everything is installed.
please hit me up thanks!
 
  #26  
Old 11-22-2013, 02:49 PM
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Why are you changing out the clutch? Is is bad? If you OEM clutch is still fine, dont waste the money.

Again SSV is a big waste.
What Tomei cams are you getting? 256, 264, 272, 280? Anything over 11mm lift requires you to change valve springs as well.
What tuner are you getting? Your car will not run well with all these mods and no tune. Where are you going to get it tuned?
Why add all these breather mods and not do larger MAF housing and TB?


By the mods youre listing, it would actually be cheaper for you to go FI.
 
  #27  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:14 PM
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the clutch was already changed when i bought the car becuz i started out as my first MT car and i burnt that **** out lol so thats already installed.

but what is MAF and TB housing?
FI?

and yea im getting it tuned no matter what i was just wondering if there was anyhting else i could get to help improve before i did do a test. and im hoping to do this Dyno in ATL. or an Osiris, uprev?

the cams are 256 just checked. iv only spent 4g's on everything on that list.
im pretty much trying to see if fuel injectors would be of help or maybe a tranny radiator or oil cooler. anything like that.
 
  #28  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:23 PM
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the cams are 256.....with max cam lift 10.20 valve lift IN 9.90 EX 9.87 cold valve clearance 0.30 IN and 0.33 EX
and valve timing 125 IN 112 EX
 
  #29  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:25 PM
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FI = forced induction.

Since you're going with cams you would want to have the entire intake redone, meaning larger piping for everything going to the intake manifold. Such as the Mass Air Flow sensor and Throttle Body housings.
 
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2013, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by herrschaft
FI = forced induction.

Since you're going with cams you would want to have the entire intake redone, meaning larger piping for everything going to the intake manifold. Such as the Mass Air Flow sensor and Throttle Body housings.

i actually found a throttlebody but it was for like 60 bucks i think? im not sure if thats right or not. is there a specific brand i shoudl go for?
 


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