So.... are they forged or not forged?... :P Because I'm just a guy that wants between 350 and 400 rwhp.


OP, what made you go with the throttle body kit? Before you pull the trigger on it, you should look in to whether or not it will work with the turbo set up you want. I'll be following your build with interest!

 

Sorry 450 is a lil low but deff 500hp+ but not looking to pass 600hp.

 

thats fine and i've also had my 97 maxima supercharged at 14psi. A VQ30DE which does not come with forged internals. I respect that you have experience with other nissan platforms as do I. However this is misinformation on the VQ35DE and OEM rods are not that strong. OP(and others who read this) will regret it if they rebuild the engine and leave the stock rods in because of this misinformation. Do people push 500hp on oem rods? yes of course but that is still pushing the limits of its capability. and many people have had rods break around 450hp. safe measure is to keep it below 450 on oem internals. There are multiple threads on this on my350z. Many more than you'll find here as they get more technical there.

OP if youre aiming for 450 or so just get the F/I kit. fuel system, EMS, pistons, rods, bearings, head gasket and OEM gasket kit and get a good installer and a good tune. And for the auto do a valve body mod and add a trans cooler and you'll be set. Also for more help you should post on my350z as they will be able to provide a lot more technical knowledge there.

 

They are not forged and 350-400 is fine without an engine build unless you have high mileage. throttle body kit should be irrelevant to the F/I kit choice as is mates up in the oem location anyway. its just a larger bore. With an OEM intake manifold and without larger MAF and intake piping it might not even help much as far as gains.

 

Unless you're looking to spend another 3-4k to build the 5at trans also there is almost no point aiming above 450 with an auto as the clutch packs will start to slip.

 

Ideally I'd like 500HP+ but not 600Hp and anything over 450hp would keep me happy. I appreciate all the advice you guys are giving. With the build you laid out what price range is that looking at.

 

Well what am I looking at with 450hp compared to 500hp on price

 

Nothing. Just a boost change

 

My friend had one installed on his 04 G an he said he loved it. He say a decent difference and said it made it sound amazing after. Plus with my kinetix intake manifold the stock throttle body seemed like it was constricted. But either way I just feel like it'd be a good investment since the only people that talk down on em are the ones that haven't bought em

 

FI kit ~3-6k depending what you choose and if new/used.
EMS+tune ~1300 for uprev done by a good tuner
fuel system ~1200-1500
pistons+rods ~1200
head studs ~150
bearings/gaskets ~700
install -get quote

VB mod+install ~700
trans cooler 200

I would recommend these mods for anything above 450 to be safe. only difference in aiming for above 450 would be that with the auto you'd want to build the trans which would add another 3-4k and if you want 600+ you should buy the higher quality/stronger internals which would double the component prices and you would probably want a haltech EMS which would double that price also. if you can find the FI kit used you can save a lot there as long as its in good condition.

 

the best conclusion honestly is for you to go to my350z and search.. and when you're done search more... No one can really tell you specifically what you'd need/want. You need to research and decide on you're own. I've experienced this throughout my other car builds. this may give you a good recommended starting point but you should go and do specific research and decide exactly what components you really want and set a realistic goal. No one can really tell you what is "best".

But since you do have an auto(as do i) do keep in mind that aiming for high power is wasted. If you read the thread by jtrain in the FI section he dyno'd 550 auto then gained over 100hp just by switching to 6mt trans which shows just how significant the drivetrain loss is on the auto especially when you are pushing over 400-450 and he was already running a fully built 5at trans.

 

Mkay I see where your coming from, and ya I'll go start looking at my350z. But ya seems 450 would be ideal so I wont have to worry about slipping and I don't plan on switching to MT so it'd be a waste trying to push any more HP out of it

 

BTW when you do go there make sure you've extensively researched before you create a post there and make sure its thoroughly detailed or theyll flame the hell out of you and tell you to GTFO.

 

Lmao good lookin out

 

Would the dyno discrepancy between AT and 6mt have anything to do with gear radio? 100whp is a lot. If you do switch to a 6mt, make sure you get a cd009. Better synchros than the used 6mts you will find. They are roughly $1700 new. Then you can grab a used 6mt ecu. That should drop a couple pounds too. 6 less quarts of fluid. As long as you get a lighter flywheel