I've always own Hondas in the past. Not too familiar with the VQ motors. I have a 2003 G35 coupe and every time I change my oil, only about a quart and half comes out of the pan. Is this normal? I use the car as a daily driver and car is all stock.

 

I was used to Honda motors too. Never had the OC issue Til this car. Monitor it frequently as they definitely burn a good bit especially compared to what you're probably used to

 

might be a good idea to take dipstick measurement too before draining next round

 

agreed...

looks like you might have to check the dip stick every other week...
how often do you change your oil?

sounds like your car burned a lot normal.. be happy your car didn't blow up with only 1.5 quarts in the pan.. (which is surprising..)

 

1.5 quarts. you are definitely pushing it.

 

The owners manual for my 1964 MGB suggested that the oil should be checked with every fill up.

Cars are much better now, but in your case, you should check DAILY!

 

Do you use syn or dino oil? I read somewhere syn burns faster than oil.l dont know if its a fact or speculation.l use normal oil and it burns about3/4 of a quart of oil between oil changes.If there was a quart and a half you was lucky not to blow your engine!

 

Syn oil does burn faster. If ur burning it because of worn or high tolerance between two surfaces.

 

that or you have a leak you are unaware of

 

I use mobil 1 full syn with OEM Nissan filter.

 

I change my oil every 3,000/less miles or every 3 months which ever comes first.

 

Couple things to be aware of. The two common types of oil burning on these cars are from either PCV valve or bad rings (which is way more common on a revup). Pull the PCV valve and make sure it's still functional, you should hear a rattling noise when you shake it if it's still working. If you're willing to pull it, it won't hurt to just get a new one, it's like $10-15 at Autozone. If you have a revup and it's coming from the rings there's only so much you can do short of rebuilding, but there are ways to limit it.

What worked for me has been the following (and this is on an '05 6mt / revup): I did replace my PCV valve because the OEM valve was no longer rattling, most likely due to the sheer amount of oil it passed through having gummed it up. I was still burning some oil, although less, afterward. Probably down from about 2.5 quarts per 3k to 1.5-2. Next step was to add a vented oil catch can and bypass the PCV to plenum line. Ran the PCV out to the vented catch can and then back in to the driver side valve cover (the vent hose that would normally go to the intake tube) and plugged both the intake tube and plenum. At the same time I switched to Mobil 1 0w/40 full syn. and I have had much better luck keeping the oil in the engine. I'm still doing oil changes prior to 3k miles due to the limited mileage I've been putting on the car, but I've been keeping 4+ quarts in the car.

I can't tell you for sure that the PCV, the vented catch can, or the Mobil 0/40 individually did anything, but the combination of them have done well for me. It's worth a shot at least, although as always your mileage may vary.

You don't need to go nuts on a vented catch can either, just make sure it is actually vented and internally baffled (most are, but double check). I went with a relatively cheap "All-Star Performance" can from Amazon and it's worked out for the last 9 months or so. Jegs and Summit also have a large selection of affordable options. Measure out your mounting locations before you pull the trigger, it's a tight fit if you find one that's just a little too large.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

I'm puzzled by the use of a "vented" catch can. If you route the PCV circuit through a vented can, it's like just pulling the line and leaving it open (vacuum leak). I would think a non-vented can would work much better as it would keep the PCV circuit active and still catch the oil.

 

You would have a vacuum problem if you drilled out the ball in the PCV itself and left it open. It's not an always open vent so no vacuum issues. Guys have thrown the little air filters you'd see on a lawn mower onto the PCV and run fine. It's a push, not a pull, vent. You get vacuum issues on the intake when it's not sealed and it's pulling too much air in (or air where it shouldn't be) right? This isn't an issue because the PCV isn't pulling anything, it's venting out.

And if you're already burning or passing oil around the last thing you really want to do is reintroduce it into the plenum / intake track, you want to remove as much of it as you can. Having the vented can has worked for me for a while now. I will try get scientific in a couple hours, still working on the first cup of coffee.My gut is telling me that a closed can using the bypass I mentioned above wouldn't allow for a pressure release and you'd just end up with **** sitting in the lines.

Just doing a closed can on the PCV to Intake hose might work, but I haven't used it so I won't comment. I've been forced to drain my can every month to 6 weeks if I'm driving a lot so it's doing it's job of separating oil from vapors.

 

Cool, I have one I bought a year ago and never put on. It's vented with a little air cleaner on top. When I put my MREV on (years ago), I did see a bit of oil puddling in the intake then, but not much.