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Crank pulley removal 2006 AT

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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by NetNinja
I thought when I was changing the water pump the timing chain became too lose and skipped when I was trying to take tension off of the water pump side.

This job has taken way too long since I am unfamiliar with the idiosyncrasies of working on it.
I was a Pro when it came to my 94 Ford Taurus SHO. That SOB cost me an arm and a leg to keep it running.

To add insult to injury the factory over torqued one of the cam cover bolts and wouldn't you know it, it was the last bolt I had to remove and my socket rounded off the bolt. I am WTF! seriously? I was squarely on the bolt and my 10mm socket is new. It just keeps getting better.

Know where to buy a replacement bolt!? did some searching and saw someone did a bolt measurement?

Cam Covers : X2 ( 5 )6mm x 16mm
Ebay?
Well don't quote me, but if it skipped timing you'd probably hear a popping noise, lol. That's what happened when I did the water pump and it turned into the job you're trying to avoid, lol. I was several teeth off, bit there should be a good amount of slack when you loosen the chain either way after the tensioner is depressed.

There is a sticky somewhere with every bolt size imaginable. You should be able to get bolts at any auto or hardware store. Took me a couple weeks doing it part-time and driving my beater around....saved me 1200 in labor though!

If you end up going there though there are some great bids on YouTube. One in particular was a BMW tech working on his girlfriends maxima. His video helped me a lot.
 

Last edited by coffeysm; Jun 10, 2014 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #17  
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Well Finally got the car back together but of course why would it start after having it apart for 3 weeks.

The car turns over but seems like no spark. tried 3 times and gave up.
Everything is plugged in. triple checked to make sure everything was snug and all electrical connectors were plugged in.

Can't tell if it's timing or what. I guess I can put a tester on the service port and run a diagnostic?
Is there anything that needs to be reset?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:01 PM
  #18  
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Same thing happened to me. My security light was on and would not let the car start. Check and make sure the red light by the clock is off after the key is switched on to the run position.

BTW, I think by the looks of those templates, your right bank is advanced one tooth. Did you fix that?

I know it's not what you want to hear right not but damn, those templates are awesome!!!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:10 PM
  #19  
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Mac thanks for the templates. Hmm I wasn't so sure if my timing was off so I decided to put everything back together.
I think I am just going to have it towed to Z1 motorsports. There is a speed shop closer to where I live in Hotlanta but I hear to many horror stories and I am beside myself in screwing with this car.
Right now I have more Money than time.

The lights that stay are on

Brake which I have the emergency brake on
Oil
Battery
Service engine soon
I keep hearing a Beep Beep Beep Beep
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:22 PM
  #20  
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Your timing was off based on those pictures . Your right bank seems like it was advanced one tooth.

Go to your car, turn the key to the run position (not start) and see if that red light goes out by the clock in the middle of the dash. Another thing you can do is see if you scan tool will connect to the ECM.

I understand your frustration with your car. These cars are definitely not the easiest to work on and it doesn't seem like they were made to be taken apart like some of the older cars that many people are accustomed to working on. My old boss told me, "a good technician know his limits". Those words ring true time and time again. In other words, know when to stop and get help before you just make it worse.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 01:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mac8008
I don't think any half inch impact will get that bolt off without applying heat. I have a good IR 1/2" impact and with my compressor turned up past 110psi, I couldn't removed the nuts attaching the cat to the rear exhaust pipes. I had to heat the bolts up for them to come off.

Unless you have the chain off with the cams in the heads, you can use the bump method. Anytime I plan to take off the crank pulley bolt, it's the first thing I remove so I don't get in a situation like that. I always just bump the starter and it comes right off.

Another method I used to use is a wrap a chain strap wrench around the pulley with a cut up piece of belt protecting the pulley from the chain.

If you look in the FSM, I'm sure nissan will tell you to lock the flywheel with a proprietary tool. Instead of using the tool, you can try to wedge a screw driver in the starter teeth but I wouldn't brace it against the trans case. I would try to use the floor.
I have an IR W7150 lithium Ion Impact gun, took that crank pulley bolt off like it was cap on a beer bottle.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #22  
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I would almost be willing to bet you $100 bucks that it would drain the battery dry and cry itself home to sleep. LOL.

The problem with getting a half inch impact wrench in there is to remove the A/C condenser radiator.
I don't have a proper way of venting the A/C and probably like most people they just vent it out to the world.

I am having it towed to Z1 motorsports. I am done screwing with it. I love my motorcycle but I love my G35 even more.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by NetNinja
I would almost be willing to bet you $100 bucks that it would drain the battery dry and cry itself home to sleep. LOL.

The problem with getting a half inch impact wrench in there is to remove the A/C condenser radiator.
I don't have a proper way of venting the A/C and probably like most people they just vent it out to the world.

I am having it towed to Z1 motorsports. I am done screwing with it. I love my motorcycle but I love my G35 even more.
Chain wrench, breaker bar, pipe for leverage, using the idle pulley bracket to hold wrench in place, and that thing will pop right off. I can understand your frustration though, since my car was out of commission for weeks working on it when I had spare time. Hopefully it won't be that expensive; I was quoted just 1200.00 in labor to replace the timing chain with my own parts from a Nissan dealership.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2014 | 09:56 AM
  #24  
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I managed to get a full size 1/2" impact wrench in there to get my crank pulley off. All I did was lift the radiator up which took no time at all. I had one hand wrapped up because I had surgery earlier that week. It was really easy.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 04:20 PM
  #25  
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Well got the car towed to Z1 motorsports. Of course the timming was off and my engine is screwed up. I have bent valves and so there are options to fix it.

1. Get a used engine and swap out
2. Replace the heads

At this point I might as well get the car put back together and sell the thing as parts.
There are several G35's on Craigslist that look apealing.

What's a used 2006 G35 go for in parts?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #26  
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I'm really sorry to hear that! If you were closer, I would come help you out.

It might be too early to throw in the towel yet. I just purchased a really clean engine from a salvage yard in MA for $1400. It was an 05 with 68K or so. After giving it a good inspection, I chose to purchase it. If you search around, you can find low mileage engines in that price range.

My 04 G35x is worth chump change and it's mint with only 72K so spending the $1400 was a no brainer for me.

I found my engine on ebay. A really good junk yard locator is car-parts.com. At the minimum, give that site a shot because I'm positive you can find something local. If you know someone with a truck, you can bargain them down a few hundred or so.

If I can help you with anything, PM me!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 07:36 PM
  #27  
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Yeah no biggie, you just gotta roll with the punches. It comes down to time. I just don't have the patience anymore of spending hours just to pull an engine and then put another one in.
That time spent is money.

I might as well get a nice used 2008 G37 with some of the upgrades built in and do some light mods.
The money I can get parting the car out should offset the purchase of the new used one.

Heck maybe someone would take it off my hands for 12K. It's still in excellent shape.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #28  
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Let me know how it all works out. For sure those g37 are wickedly fast!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2014 | 10:58 PM
  #29  
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Well been looking for a used 2011 or 2012 G37 WOW these Infinity dealerships won't budge on these pre-owned cars!

I have been searching for a used engine to swap out in my G35. There are so many bad reviews on these places that sell used engines! Crap.

Anyone know of a reputable place that sells used G35 engines Long block? I don't need a performance engine just an OEM will work. Thanks in advanced.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #30  
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A new car!

Well after 1 month of visiting every dealer in the Hotlanta area I had to drive 2 hours to get a great deal on a 2011 G37S AT. It wasn't silver but that graphite gray is pretty sweet. Came with all the bells and whistles.

I don't drive with a heavy foot and on the way home some duchebag wants to ride my bootay as a semi is boxed me in on my right and a Bluehair sitting in the passing lane.

I step into the gas and HOLLY CRAP! This thing lurches forward and scares the crap out of me! I had just enough room to move to my right and let the dueling idiots in the passing lane play touch my bumper.

I thought the G35 was a pretty tight car but the G37 is smoking hotness.

Now to finish selling off my G35. I have had some serious offers but none near what I want.
 
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