Long story but I need to remove my crank pulley.

This MO FO won't budge!

2006 AT

Wasn't going to remove the timing chain cover but now I have to.

I even went out and purchased a compact 1/2 drive impact wrench.
A full size won't work even with the radiator removed and I am not about to pull my Air Con radiator or whatever it's called.

I can't do the bump method because the entire top end has been taken apart.

I am doing the lefty loosey but I have never encountered such a stubborn crank shaft bolt.

I even used tie down straps to try and cinch the pulley to keep it from moving and that hasn't worked.

I put the tie down straps through the crankshaft pulley openings and of course those edges are sharp it tore right through them.

Any other suggestions? I might have to get this damn thing towed and have someone with a Magillia Gorilla Impact wrench break that Fing bolt lose.

 

The AC lines are soft and can bend slightly, you can carefully move the radiator portion out of the way while leaving it connected if the entire front end is taken apart.

 

Thanks! I might have to consider that. I might as well since the car is pretty much torn apart in terms of parts removed.
I think my full size sears Craftsman air wrench is pretty lame.
The compact I just bought is pretty decent.

Ingersoll Rand air tools are the bomb.

Or call a mobile mechanic who has a larger air compressor and better air tools remove the bolt.

 

I don't think any half inch impact will get that bolt off without applying heat. I have a good IR 1/2" impact and with my compressor turned up past 110psi, I couldn't removed the nuts attaching the cat to the rear exhaust pipes. I had to heat the bolts up for them to come off.

Unless you have the chain off with the cams in the heads, you can use the bump method. Anytime I plan to take off the crank pulley bolt, it's the first thing I remove so I don't get in a situation like that. I always just bump the starter and it comes right off.

Another method I used to use is a wrap a chain strap wrench around the pulley with a cut up piece of belt protecting the pulley from the chain.

If you look in the FSM, I'm sure nissan will tell you to lock the flywheel with a proprietary tool. Instead of using the tool, you can try to wedge a screw driver in the starter teeth but I wouldn't brace it against the trans case. I would try to use the floor.

 

Read my post about when I changed my timing chain; I have how I removed the crank pulley. I couldn't bump it or use a impact either I did it with a chain wrench, old belt, breaker bar, the idle pulley bracket, and jack stand handle for leverage.

I'd do the idle pulley mod delete while you have it apart as well, but keep a hold of that bracket.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ing-chain.html

 

They do tell you to use some proprietary tool that is super expensive. I didn't feel safe sticking a screwdriver/prybar in there either. I got it off using a chain wrench, old belt, breaker bar, and using the idle pulley bracket to wedge the chain wrench against.

 

Yeah I am starting to think the heat method is going to be my only choice. 3 weeks without my car sucks *****!
A replacement harmonic balancer isn't that expensive since They don't take too kindly to heat.

Yeah the plans changed due to a water pump replacement. Unless there is a way to tell if the timing chain didn't fall off while trying to keep tension on the timing chain.

If there is a way to tell if my timing is still good without removing the timing chain cover then I am all ears.

 

If you do it how I did the bolt will pop right off!

 

coffeysm

I just read your post above. Ok To Harbor Freight I go tomorrow. Lucky for me I live less than 3 miles from one.

I was using a pipe like 5ft long on my breaker bar and man I was so scared I was pulling on that damn thing and the engine was moving up. I am WTF! Who the F..K put this bolt on!

Then the tie down strap got cut through.

I have been taking pics so I will post when I am done screwing with this.

 

check your timing without removing the front cover courtesy of Jim Wolf Technology.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...c_template.pdf

It's really cool that they would go through the trouble of making these templates and posting it on thier website. It has literally saved me from taking off the front cover when I thought my timing was off. Thank you Jim Wolf Technology!

 

Take the idler pulley off first, but leave the bracket in place. Then take the chain wrench and tape an old belt around it. The wrench will then wedge itself against the bracket and when you go to turn it then the bolt will pop-off. The harmonic balancer also just slides off pretty easily after that. Get some PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench also if you don't have any.

Don't forget to remove the lower oil pan and take the two bolts off in there.

Good luck with your project!

 

OMG! You may have saved my life! I am going to check that out tomorrow. If I go outside now the Mosquitos will attempt to carry me away and suck me dry.

 

The top pic doesn't look right. I cut out the bolt holes as per the instructions.
So I rotated the crankshaft one revolution around. The bottom pic looks better?
Thoughts?






upload img

 

What made you think your timing was off to begin with?

The first pic might be TDC at the exhaust stroke, which is NOT what you want to be at. You probably want to make sure you're at TDC on compression stroke and you can stick a large screw driver down there and watch how far it goes up and down.

 

I thought when I was changing the water pump the timing chain became too lose and skipped when I was trying to take tension off of the water pump side.

This job has taken way too long since I am unfamiliar with the idiosyncrasies of working on it.
I was a Pro when it came to my 94 Ford Taurus SHO. That SOB cost me an arm and a leg to keep it running.

To add insult to injury the factory over torqued one of the cam cover bolts and wouldn't you know it, it was the last bolt I had to remove and my socket rounded off the bolt. I am WTF! seriously? I was squarely on the bolt and my 10mm socket is new. It just keeps getting better.

Know where to buy a replacement bolt!? did some searching and saw someone did a bolt measurement?

Cam Covers : X2 ( 5 )6mm x 16mm
Ebay?