#1
Today 01:25 PM by Cstager7
So I am stuck and don't know what else to look for.

I've changed the radiator and thermostat. Bleed the bleeder and car still overheats. I am not getting any hot air coming from the vents either.

After about 20 mins of idle, fans kick on but nothing seems to happen. Driving the needle jumps to the top just going around the block. Too radiator hose gets full and super hot. But that's where it seems to stay. I disconnected the bypass line and there's nothing. I thought this line is to circulate coolant until t stat is ready to open.

Replaced the radiator bc it ended up spewing coolant from several pinholes by the cap. My guess those were created from all the pressure built up.

Aside from that once my car gets warm and I shut it off I hear a sucking/small bubble sound coming from what looks like one if the ignition coil areas on the front passenger side. But once the car is warm and I try to start it again, it starts then stalls and won't stay running.

 

Are you sure you got all the air out of the system? Do you bleed it with the bleeder valve on the heater hose at the firewall? I have read that it is difficult to properly bleed the air out of the coolant system. Here is a video which shows the process.

http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gcou..._procedure.php

 

Yea. Steady flow runs out.

 

It may be a bad water pump. I would search to see how to test it before you throw more money at the problem. If the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom hose is cold the coolant is not circulating.

 

I'll test it again when I get back home. Car isn't leaking any fluid

 

Easy way to check your water pump, remove your radiator cap and let your car idle until she's warmed up. You should be able to see your radiator fluid moving. Also, all thermostats aren't created equal, once in a while you'll find one that doesn't open!
Gary

 

Thermostats for sure good. Too it off and tested it when this all began. Can anyone tell me which way the circulation goes? Like I said top radiator hose is the one getting super hot and pressured where the bypass line is cold and empty

 

Update: ran the car again for 20 mins. Car got hot but bottom radiator hose never got hot. Not dripping or leaking any fluid, but still have to put in antifreeze. Does this mean it's evaporating somewhere?

 

Is the replacement radiator new, used or rebuilt? Did you replace the thermostat and housing as a unit as recommended in the service manual (OEM)? Did you inspect the upper and lower hoses? I have seen hoses with defective inner liners that became separated which blocked the flow of coolant.

Based on your description, the water pump appears to be working, The pump appears to be pumping coolant and pressurizing the top hose. .

If the hoses are good and water flows freely through the radiator, I would suspect a thermostat that is stuck closed maybe even installed backwards. I have yet to replaced a thermostat on a G so I don't know if that is even possible. I can be done on other vehicles.

 

BTW, you should be able to see the coolant circulating as it flows from the engine to the radiator through the top hose. !WARNING! Do not remove the cap to check for circulation when the system is hot. Page CO-8 of the service manual shows the system flow.

 

Radiators brand new from JCWhitney. Thermostat from advance auto which was a thermostat and the housing connected. Top hose is super hot bottom hose not hot. I've taken off the hoses and blew through

 

Check for circulation as mentioned earlier by Gary. If no circulation, it could be a thermostat stuck closed, but I would still want to troubleshoot and confirm flow through the upper hose, radiator and lower hose. I would disconnect the upper hose at the engine and the lower hose at the thermostat housing. I would then put a garden hose at high pressure at the upper hose end and watch the flow through the bottom hose. of course this will cause you to spend some cash on coolant. If the flow is good, then a logical suspect is a bad thermostat.

 

Put the OBDII sensor on the car.

P0327- knock sensor
P0102- mass or volume air flow circuit low

Separate or related issues?

 

I would definitely concentrate on fixing the overheat issue first, once that problem is out of the way I would clear those 2 codes. If they return tackle them, but they could have been as a result of the engine running hot. Hopefully others will chime in and give you their advise.

Did you check for coolant circulation already?

 

If overheating occurs within a few minutes, there is a possibility of a blown head gasket or cracked head. Start with a cool engine. Remove radiator cap and start engine. If there is an excessive number of bubbles and coolant appears to be "boiling", you are getting exhaust gases in your cooling system, a sign of blown head gasket or cracked head.