Mine is from AZ and it works fine. Sounds like there may still be air in your system. Try this:

With the rad cap off, get yer car to full operating temp. Once its fully warm (where the guage should normally sit) turn the car off and squeeze the lower rad hose continuously and see if it causes you radiator level to go down.

Squeezing the lower hose acts like a syphon and will make sure your water jacket fills completely. As long as the coolant level drops when you squeeze the lower hose, you still have air in the system.

 

^^ You raise a good point.

Given all the work that's been done (i.e. how many times the system has been opened), was air ever bled out of the system each time? . . . Well escozoo ?

 

Okay so i did as what you said and got the car to normal temp on gauge. When i squeezed the bottom hose, the coolant would rise and as i would let go, it would go right back to where it was before i squeezed it.

 

Yes i have. I used the bleeder screw to do it, because i don't have the spill free funnel. One way i would know i had gotten it right, the heater would blow warm and hot air.

 

Have you pressure tested your system?

 

If you totally eliminate that possibility, then you're back to considering all the potential reasons that coolant is not flowing through your radiator. If it is not an air bubble, and it is not a thermostat, then it seems all that is left is some sort of grotesque clog in the radiator itself (very unlikely) or the WP itself.


Even if the system didn't hold decent pressure, the coolant should still flow through the radiator under pressure from the pump after the thermostat opened, and thus both hoses should be getting hot.

 

That's true, that's true.

It really just sounds like there's still air in the system. What are we missing here? Sounds like all the bases have been covered, but...something's being missed (obviously). Sounds like it could be the super rare (but not unheard of) rusting off of the water pump fan blades.

 

Damn, you quoted me too fast

I went back and edited my last post there, since I realized he's probably got a V35 generation and I wasn't sure if they had that second bleeder at the radiator like the V36's do. Also, the WP is clearly driven by the timing chain and NOT the serpentine belt.

I highly doubt the impeller blades would have rusted off on the WP, instead I wondered if the impeller could possibly have broken off the end of the shaft.

That's a bit of a red herring as well though, so I agree wholeheartedly, there's (obviously) got to be something overlooked, misinterpreted, erroneously eliminated, or . . .

 

Okay sorry for responding late, went on a mini vacation to vegas lol.

Yes, I have a V35. So i don't know about the second bleeder screw.

So what I've gone over and checked are..
-Thermostat changed two times.
-Bleeded out any air.
-Water pump weep hole is not leaking.

When I squeeze the bottom hose, the coolant level rises, so that means that the radiator is clog free and the coolant is getting through fine right?

A friend of mine told me that if I remove the thermostat and turn the car on, it will obviously throw coolant, and if I were to accelerate it, it would throw a huge amount, meaning the wp is fine. & if it were to not thrown anything then it would be bad. I have yet to test and wanted to know what you guys might think of that?

 

Agreed; seeing the coolant rise in the radiator when you squeeze the lower hose would indicate the lack of a clogged radiator.

I get the idea of the proposed test, and I tend to agree in principal, but is this to be done without the whole gooseneck/thermostat in place, or will the thermostat be removed and just the gooseneck reinstalled? I'm just thinking about what an enormous mess you could make with an open system .

Also, as an easy double check/elimination, you could pull off the upper hose and ensure there is no obstruction in it either.

Lastly, please keep us posted on further developments. I really want to know what this turns out to be.

 

I will be removing the thermostat completely and testing it. I'm not too worried about the mess it will make. All I'm looking forward to is a response from the water pump hah.

And if that seems to be fine, I'm thinking of giving in, and taking it to a local shop that checks your car for free and see if they can diagnose the problem. I will gladly keep you updated!

 

I dont see what else it could be. From your symptoms there is no flow in the system. The WP on this car tends to fail because of the o rings but the actual pump rarely goes bad at the impeler.
If the system was not bled correctly then you usually hear gurgling at the heater core, or there are pockets of air in the system.
This has to have a solution there are only a few parts involved in the cooling system. T stat is not it. Move forward and open the system and start inspecting hoses pull the radiator. You can have radiator tested although if it's not leaking usually thats not a problem. What bothers me about your problem is not that we are dealing with the car overheating. Its the fact that the bottom hose is completely cold. Even if you did a horrible job at burping the system this would not be enough to halt flow completely to the point that the bottom radiator hose is cold. Maybe I'm missing something but if I were you I would start taking things apart and inspecting testing. Or start throwing parts at it. Just don't replace the t stat again.

 

I would really start looking at that water pump if there is no flow in that system. But the first thing I would do is pull the radiator and the hoses and inspect for blockage. Give that radiator a flush its free so why not

 

Well, yes and no.

I had this same problem for a few hours where I bled the system, test drove, cold lower hose. Change therm, bled, test drove, cold lower hose. Bled again, test drove, cold lower hose.

The reason I told him to squeeze the lower hose after the car was at temp, was cuz that was what fixed mine. It was almost as if the new Tstat needed to be "massaged" or broken in. After I squeezed it at temp for a few mins I felt the coolant rush thru once it finally opened and its worked fine ever since.

As far as OPs prob tho, its pretty confusing

 

T stat massage never heard of that.
Lol
I know where you are coming from I just personally never had a problem with the g35 purging the system.
OP let us know what you find