Overheating problems?
#31
Yeah, I dunno, man, it was weird. Like the bottom hose was cold and i.. Well, molested it for awhile (haha) and all the hot liquid started comin thru. (Giggity). Once it released all its juices, everything was alright. Giggity
#32
#33
Agreed; seeing the coolant rise in the radiator when you squeeze the lower hose would indicate the lack of a clogged radiator.
I get the idea of the proposed test, and I tend to agree in principal, but is this to be done without the whole gooseneck/thermostat in place, or will the thermostat be removed and just the gooseneck reinstalled? I'm just thinking about what an enormous mess you could make with an open system .
Also, as an easy double check/elimination, you could pull off the upper hose and ensure there is no obstruction in it either.
Lastly, please keep us posted on further developments. I really want to know what this turns out to be.
I get the idea of the proposed test, and I tend to agree in principal, but is this to be done without the whole gooseneck/thermostat in place, or will the thermostat be removed and just the gooseneck reinstalled? I'm just thinking about what an enormous mess you could make with an open system .
Also, as an easy double check/elimination, you could pull off the upper hose and ensure there is no obstruction in it either.
Lastly, please keep us posted on further developments. I really want to know what this turns out to be.
#35
So i removed the thermostat and started her up, like i was expecting, coolant shot out, then i had someone give it gas and nothing! No coolant came shooting out like its suppose to. So right now what i know is that the wp is bad. I bought it already, just need to find someone to change it or maybe change it myself. And after thats been replaced, hopefully the car will be back to normal.
What bothers me about this, is that there was some coolant that shot out initially. I would have been much happier if the result were absolutely conclusive and no coolant shot out. Having never done a test like this on one of these cars, I can't be sure that, under open conditions such as this, a normal WP would not spit out coolant initially, then develop a giant air pocket around the impeller (essentially "un-priming" the pump), and then stop spitting out coolant, just as happened here.
I'm not saying that's what happened here, or that your WP is not the root cause of your problems, just that there is that nagging possibility that your test could yet be inconclusive (based merely on what you've said here). I only mention this because the WP replacement is not an insignificant job, and I'd hate to see you waste the effort and expense unnecessarily. In my previous post about your proposed troubleshooting method, I only spoke about the mess, but in the back of my mind, I also wondered about un-priming the pump; it just seemed somewhat convoluted at the time to even try and explain.
I would have been happier to see the test done with some "head" on the pump, meaning with the thermostat housing and even the upper hose installed. Heck, it could even have been hooked up all the way to the radiator and, with the radiator cap off, you should have been able to look down into the upper tank and see major coolant flow occurring on an ongoing basis . . . over some extended period of time. (there would also have been no mess ) As long as the coolant was still cooled, there's no reason you can't have the cap off to observe the flow. It's when the system is hot that it needs to be pressurized.
.02
#36
#37
I really depends. What's the mileage on it? Lots of times it gets done NOT because it needs it right now, but because you're already "in there" so what the heck. I didn't bother to do mine when I had work done in there because it was only at 85K miles and I figured I could easily go another 75-100K before worrying about it. Hell, I may not even own the car by then.
#38
My chain rattles and I kick my self in the *** for not tackling it during my rebuild.
Anyway the WP is possible to change through the little window on the timing cover.
If he is removing the front timing cover. Which is a pain with the engine mounted then he can defintely change the timing chains and tensioners and guides
Also 200bux is real cheap make sure this guy knows what he is doing the timing cover is easy to mess up when putting back together if there is no prep it will leak etc.. so easy to mess this whole up if you have no clue. I wouldn't touch your car for 200 dollars. Specially if you want timing chains guides and tensioners just my .02
Last edited by h20poloman; 04-22-2015 at 09:20 PM.
#39
#40
Do the guides too there is an updated design in the primary tensioner guide the others are not as crucial. As well as the primary tensioner Nissan has updated that as well.
Also the secondary tensioners the plastics wear With the chain and this will create slack on the secondary chains. (short ones) rattles at start up
#41
Its not necessary, no, but man, since everything is already off and its sitting right in front of him and it would be super easy and preventative maintenance, it would be wise and cheap insurance. If you have problems with it 10k miles from now yer gonna be pissed that you didn't just pay a bit extra now.
#42
Its not necessary, no, but man, since everything is already off and its sitting right in front of him and it would be super easy and preventative maintenance, it would be wise and cheap insurance. If you have problems with it 10k miles from now yer gonna be pissed that you didn't just pay a bit extra now.
#43
I have an 06 Coupe where the water pump went bad last year. Well, it still circulated, but the bearings were bad, so it sounded like a banshee. I replaced the primary timing chain, tensioner, new radiator, guides, idler pulley delete, and water pump. I'd be very leery of someone charging you only 200 (Nissan dealer wanted 1000 in labor alone) bucks to do all that work. Granted, I did it on my own (first time ever) doing something like this and it's pretty involved.
Get OEM parts for timing chain, water pump, tensioner, timing cover o-rings, wp o-rings, outer seal behind the crankshaft, and there is a half-moon gasket for the lower cover.
You also have to remove the lower oil pan, since there are two bolts in there that need to be removed.
I wrote up a DIY as I did it with part numbers and stuff like that if you search my name, just so you know what's involved.
Get OEM parts for timing chain, water pump, tensioner, timing cover o-rings, wp o-rings, outer seal behind the crankshaft, and there is a half-moon gasket for the lower cover.
You also have to remove the lower oil pan, since there are two bolts in there that need to be removed.
I wrote up a DIY as I did it with part numbers and stuff like that if you search my name, just so you know what's involved.
#44
I have an 06 Coupe where the water pump went bad last year. Well, it still circulated, but the bearings were bad, so it sounded like a banshee. I replaced the primary timing chain, tensioner, new radiator, guides, idler pulley delete, and water pump. I'd be very leery of someone charging you only 200 (Nissan dealer wanted 1000 in labor alone) bucks to do all that work. Granted, I did it on my own (first time ever) doing something like this and it's pretty involved.
Get OEM parts for timing chain, water pump, tensioner, timing cover o-rings, wp o-rings, outer seal behind the crankshaft, and there is a half-moon gasket for the lower cover.
You also have to remove the lower oil pan, since there are two bolts in there that need to be removed.
I wrote up a DIY as I did it with part numbers and stuff like that if you search my name, just so you know what's involved.
Get OEM parts for timing chain, water pump, tensioner, timing cover o-rings, wp o-rings, outer seal behind the crankshaft, and there is a half-moon gasket for the lower cover.
You also have to remove the lower oil pan, since there are two bolts in there that need to be removed.
I wrote up a DIY as I did it with part numbers and stuff like that if you search my name, just so you know what's involved.
You only need to remove the undercover, air duct, belts, radiator hoses, and fan shroud.
#45
Were you having timing chain issues also? Just curious on why you went over the top to change the water pump. There are 2 black access covers on the front of the case to change the water pump. Really that $200 in labor sounds about right.
You only need to remove the undercover, air duct, belts, radiator hoses, and fan shroud.
You only need to remove the undercover, air duct, belts, radiator hoses, and fan shroud.
In my case when I was doing the water pump; I'm pretty sure the car skipped some teeth. While I was adjusting the crankshaft to give it some slack to remove the water pump it made a weird noise. Rather then be "unsure" about the current condition, I decided to remove the cover and set everything back. Since, I had it all open I decided to replace all the components underneath. Been about 20K miles since I did this and haven't had any issues occur.