Here's the story.

The other day, I cleaned my engine bay, and then put some Gunk shine on it. I think this is what started my problems.

I didn't drive the car until the next day. I was driving. And I could smell the cleaner heavily coming into the cabin. After a while, I noticed that the car kept acting like it was going to stall when I came to a stop. A couple times it did stall. When I would try to start it, sometimes it acted like the battery was dead, and it was having problems starting. One time it wouldn't restart, so I got a jump and it started right up. On the way home, I started hearing a loud rattling noise coming from the engine bay. The car seemed like it lost some power. I got the car home, ran an ecu scan with the torque app, and found that the AIT code was coming up. So I replaced the maf sensor. Cleaning it didn't help.

So I took the car out for a drive, still having the stall issue after the car is warmed up, and I press the clutch in as the car is coming to a stop. But if I put it in to neutral and let it coast to a stop, it won't stall. I'm thinking the gunk stuff is messing with a sensor. I'm thinking it may be the vtc solenoid, but I couldn't find anything on the forum explaining the symptoms of the vtc going bad. Does this sound like the likely issue?

Btw. Never gonna use this stuff again. It killed my o2 sensor before too, I had forgotten all about this until this recent issue came up. Stuff is in the garbage now.

 

Couldn't hurt to try cleaning them, they get flaky if your oil is low. They pop right off though and are pretty easy to clean.

http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/0...olenoid-valve/

I've had really good success with Scrubbing Bubbles and I'll probaby get flamed, but a pressure washer on low setting, lol. I just avoid the common sense areas (alternator, MAF, air filter, spark coil wires, etc..)

Don't do it on a hot engine though if you are using cold water obviously.

Any other codes since you replaced the MAF?

 

No new codes. But the car is still acting the same. I think tomorrow I'm going to wash the motor off again with no chemicals

 

You used an OEM MAF though right?

 

I thought I was ordering an oem maf, since the pictures and details were identical. But the one that showed up, I think is not. It's made by delphi, and I couldn't find anything with the brand of my oem. But I did swap one from my other car that has no issues and I had the same results. Do I don't think it's the maf right now that is the problem.

 

I'm taking stuff apart today. I had my gf give it gas while I used my stethoscope to track down the location of the rattle, and I can't find it. So now, taking off the manifold and valve covers to see if I see anything out of place.

The stalling issue happens after the car is warmed up, if I just let it idle for about 10 minutes, that's when it starts getting a surge and the idle gets low and it wants to die.

The rattle is for less than a second at start up, but then goes away. But as the rpms get higher, that's when it gets more audible. But once it's at higher rpms (4.5k+) the rattle reached it's peak sound level, even though the engine is getting higher in rpms