Yeah, if you're going that far, you might as well check the rings and do a full rebuild.

 

What does checking the rings actually entail? Is it outlined in the FSM...?

As far as doing a full rebuild, what would that include?
All I can think of is the main seals, cleaning oil pickup, pistons rings......
Anything to watch for particularly with these engines?

 

I don't know if this applies to modern engines, but we checked the ring gap for signs of wear. Look for a ring around the top of the cylinder that's not worn and compare it to the lower walls, mic them to see if they are out of spec. Look at the cyl walls for scoring and blow by. The main bearings can be checked for wear with something called a "Plastigauge", you remove the bearing cap, lay the plastic strip over the bearing and replace and re-torque the cap, remove and mic the gauge to check for out of spec. Yeah it's a lot of work and probably not required, but how are you going to feel if you put it all back together and then spin a main bearing?

 

Does anyone know if the Fel Pro Head gasket for the VQ35HR has the Fire ring preloaders just like the OEM one for the HR has?
They say on their site that they're made to meet or surpass OEM quality, so I would think they would have the preloaders...?

 

The bleed valve along the coolant line going into the firewall is cracked.
Anyone know where I can get another from? Is there any way to bleed the system without it?

 

I'm currently looking into doing a full rebuild of my revup engine due to oil consumption. I know it's probably over kill, but here's what I've come up with for a proper rebuild:

Full OEM engine overhaul gasket kit. Comes with all seals and o-rings for the engine.
Rear main seal (don't see it listed in OEM kit)
Basic rebuild kit (Z1 and CZP offer slightly different options). Comes with new pistons, piston rings, rods, and bearings.
Replacement Revup oil pump
Replacement timing chain kit
Silicone Hose master set

Using all new and OEM parts, my shopping cart is about $2k worth of parts. Can probably get away with skipping the oil pump and timing chain kit. Also, if you don't have a revup engine, rockauto sells an overhaul kit with almost everything listed above for $824. Or you can skip the oil pump and timing kit and get the $370 rebuild kit. Rockauto also has a full gasket kit for $124 vs $300 for the OEM kit if you don't want to do a full rebuild but just refresh the engine.

As far as other things to consider while the engine is out: replace clutch and clutch hydraulics (master/slave cylinders), install headers.

 

$2000 - I managed to pay that for the car in her current condition....
It's not much a problem to pull the engine out at a later point if something needs changing. I'll check everything and replace now, but only if there's any problems.
I managed to get the fel-pro HR gaskets for $25 a piece. Just need to pressure test the heads, plane the block top and grind out the two water ways a little more. Seal everything that was opened and put the engine back in. It's a slow process, working on it between school and work...

 

The big cost is those rebuild kits since they're basically a mild NA build (11:1 CR, beefier rods, ARP studs, etc).

The rockauto $370 rebuild kit seems like a good deal if I wasn't a revup. It comes with pistons, rods, gasket kit, and bearings. Just give the block a quick honing, and good to go.
Basic: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=403&jpid=0
Basic plus oil pump and timing kit: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=403&jpid=5

 

That is definitely interesting. I may look into doing a complete rebuild with a kit like that in the near future as my G has just over 150k miles.

 

Mine has over 190K now. That's why my rebuild shopping list was a little overboard.

 

What's best to clean parts (heads/block/timing covers/etc) before assembling.
I had used some degreaser on the ally sump of a Volvo engine and it left white powder on the surface...
Will soapy water and thorough jet washing with only water be alright?

 

VarSol, by Exxon

 

When I rebuilt my SR20 before swapping it, I just used brake cleaner. That stuff cleans everything. Just wear gloves if you have any cuts on your hands.

 

Block and trans are now out of the car.
All ports blocked, front covered and rings taped over ready for surface prep







I'll also be taking off some material to make the HR gaskets work.
Lost a lot of trans fluid, what do you guys use to replace/refill? Coming from a VW they like to use very specific (and expensive) stuff. Do these A/T boxes require anything specific?

 

Yes. Use only OEM Nissan fluid as recommended.