2004 infiniti g35x 146k miles
Extended crank almost all of the time unless I'm running the car and turn off and right back on or -
When i try to start it the 1st time it will crank for a couple seconds then I let go and try again and it starts right up. When it starts after doing that it goes right to where the rpm's should be but if I was to just keep cranking the 1st time it will take a couple seconds then start at a low rpm and slowly goes up to the right rpm.

My friend has a scanner and he looked at the RPM's while trying to crank and said it is not the crank sensor
no codes
Help?
Thanks

 

Did you check your battery? My car had long cranking times and sometimes failed every now and then. Ended up being my battery was like only 46% capacity or something, I bought a new one from AAA and have had an issue since.

 

Just got a new battery couple of weeks ago

 

Maybe the crank can sensors are on the way out.

 

Tune-up should make it right as rain, possible Crank Position Sensor too.

 

I looked at the RPM's with a scanner while cranking and they are what they should be so it is NOT the crank position sensor.
It has new spark plugs and new battery what else?
What do bad cam sensors do ?

 

Bad cam sensor could cause it to be rough, or not run at all. Possible culprit.

The issue is, there is a clogged, dirty, failing, or failed valve/sensor somewhere.

Start with the cheapest fixes, work your way up. I would suggest this.. in order. (you may have done some of these already)

0. Oil change, always first thing.
1. Fuel System Cleaner
2. New Filters (and fuel filter)
3. Use Carb cleaner to check all Vacuum lines (Any rev after spraying is a leaky vacuum)
4. Clean MAF (DOUBLE CHECK IT CAN BE CLEANED! I fried a SC400 MAF once.) and TB with cleaner (nice and sparkly)
5. New Spark Plugs (check wires with OHM meter to ensure they are good)

That would eliminate 90% of problem from getting a new, or fixing and older vehicle.

After that point, it should either be a CEL problem (causes it to flick on) or undercar/engine sensors (O2, Cam Pos, Crank Pos, etc..)

 

Great this is what i was looking for
Any brand recommendations for fuel cleaning?

 

Seafoam. Half in gas tank (full tank), half in brake booster line going to manifold (one with no sensors in line with it).

Rev that engine up and smoke the neighborhood out

But honestly, the science behind fuel cleaners can be tricky. Here is the basic gist of it.

If your engine is newer or has had great quality gas in it, don't bother with a fuel cleaner.

Why? Because on newer or clean engine it can actually CAUSE deposits to form.

If your engine is unknown, higher mileage, etc... Run a good cleaner with PolyEther Amine (PEA) or similar solvent.

Running a fuel cleaner will leave about 10-20% of the carbon deposits in the engine left. If you run on an engine with LESS than those amounts of deposits (newer engine, high quality gas engines) you will actually create a 10-20% deposit of carbon, making it create deposits.

For me personally, I would run a fuel cleaner on an old high mileage car. If they are relatively low miles or newer, I wouldn't even bother. Standard tune ups are just fine on those.

 

BG44K is a good one.

 

i have had very similar symptoms in my old chevy truck. it turned out to be a bad fuel pump.

 

[QUOTE=adamgx;7046577]2004 infiniti g35x 146k miles
Extended crank almost all of the time unless I'm running the car and turn off and right back on or -
When i try to start it the 1st time it will crank for a couple seconds then I let go and try again and it starts right up. When it starts after doing that it goes right to where the rpm's should be but if I was to just keep cranking the 1st time it will take a couple seconds then start at a low rpm and slowly goes up to the right rpm.

My friend has a scanner and he looked at the RPM's while trying to crank and said it is not the crank sensor
no codes

also want to check up on the coolant temperature sensor make sure it's not corroded and won't read the temperature of the vehicle properly. coolant sensor that reads cold always may cause the fuel system to run rich. coolant sensor that always reads hot may cause cold driveability problems such as stalling, hesitation and rough idle. ... also affecting engine performance. I been having this very same issue for 3months, I swapped out both camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft position sensor but had the same issue the very next day! So I ended up replacing the coolant temperature sensor and never had that long crank issue ever since 4 months ago of coolant temp sensor replacement.