No crank and won't start
#1
No crank and won't start
Hey guys,
Recently a buddy of mines G broke down on him and wouldn't crank, start. We then replaced the battery and starter on it due to both being dead but still the car would not cut on. All I can hear is the starter trying to fire up but the engine is not cranking. We then tried to jump start it and still nothing. I've tried to pull the engine codes but nothing is coming up. I think that we left the battery out too long and the engine codes got cleared during that time frame. My next guess would be cam/crank sensors but wouldn't that be throwing codes? Any advice would be helpful thanks in advance!
Recently a buddy of mines G broke down on him and wouldn't crank, start. We then replaced the battery and starter on it due to both being dead but still the car would not cut on. All I can hear is the starter trying to fire up but the engine is not cranking. We then tried to jump start it and still nothing. I've tried to pull the engine codes but nothing is coming up. I think that we left the battery out too long and the engine codes got cleared during that time frame. My next guess would be cam/crank sensors but wouldn't that be throwing codes? Any advice would be helpful thanks in advance!
Last edited by boi2gangster; 02-22-2018 at 06:27 PM.
#2
If you hear the starter solenoid engage but it won't crank that's typically just not enough amperage to turn the starter motor. Start by getting the battery TESTED, yes I know you just replaced it, doesn't mean it's good. He may have a bad alternator or something and the battery simply ran out of juice.
After the battery has been properly load bank tested and is verified working properly clean (wire brush, apply electrical anti-oxidation grease, retorque) Every. Single. Connection. on the electrical system. The ground wire has 2 points inside the battery well, the battery terminal and the chassis lug, next under the coolant reservoir (remove the single 10mm bolt and lift it straight up, don't remove the coolant hose there's enough play) there is another 2-hole lug as well as the other end of that wire which lands on the timing cover. Positive side has 3 connection points right at the fusible link, the battery and BOTH the bolts on the top of the fusible link, final connection point is the starter itself.
Now that you have verified a solidly connected electrical system see if it cranks. If the solenoid engages with an audible "thunk" but it won't crank remove the starter and have it tested:
-If it passes the test remove all spark plugs and crank the engine by hand from the crank pulley because there's a chance the motor is seized up.
-If it doesn't pass then he got sold a faulty starter.
If the engine will CRANK BUT WILL NOT RUN, then the issue might be a failed crank sensor, failed fuel pump, NATS interlockout.
Now, once the engine is running again use a digital multimeter while the engine is running and verify there are ~14.5v dc at the battery terminals. If the vehicle "mysteriously dies again" then get the alternator checked or just replace the thing since it would be the likely culprit.
After the battery has been properly load bank tested and is verified working properly clean (wire brush, apply electrical anti-oxidation grease, retorque) Every. Single. Connection. on the electrical system. The ground wire has 2 points inside the battery well, the battery terminal and the chassis lug, next under the coolant reservoir (remove the single 10mm bolt and lift it straight up, don't remove the coolant hose there's enough play) there is another 2-hole lug as well as the other end of that wire which lands on the timing cover. Positive side has 3 connection points right at the fusible link, the battery and BOTH the bolts on the top of the fusible link, final connection point is the starter itself.
Now that you have verified a solidly connected electrical system see if it cranks. If the solenoid engages with an audible "thunk" but it won't crank remove the starter and have it tested:
-If it passes the test remove all spark plugs and crank the engine by hand from the crank pulley because there's a chance the motor is seized up.
-If it doesn't pass then he got sold a faulty starter.
If the engine will CRANK BUT WILL NOT RUN, then the issue might be a failed crank sensor, failed fuel pump, NATS interlockout.
Now, once the engine is running again use a digital multimeter while the engine is running and verify there are ~14.5v dc at the battery terminals. If the vehicle "mysteriously dies again" then get the alternator checked or just replace the thing since it would be the likely culprit.
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Blue Dream (12-02-2018)
#3
Hey guys,
Ive been having the same issue, I was driving my car after doing some skids and then my car just stalled, I turned the car on and then drove a couple hundred feet then it died again. After that the car wouldn't crank and their would be one click, I flat towed the car home and the next day when I tried to start it I could hear the starter rapidly click, I went and got my battery tested and it was dead so I replaced the battery, and now when I try to start it there only one click, any help or advice would be great
Ive been having the same issue, I was driving my car after doing some skids and then my car just stalled, I turned the car on and then drove a couple hundred feet then it died again. After that the car wouldn't crank and their would be one click, I flat towed the car home and the next day when I tried to start it I could hear the starter rapidly click, I went and got my battery tested and it was dead so I replaced the battery, and now when I try to start it there only one click, any help or advice would be great
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