hi guys I�m new I need some help do you guys know if I can swap an automatic motor into a manual transmission both sedans ?

 

Depends, '05-'07 6MT uses a different motor (rev-up).

 

Double post

 

AT and MT blocks are different...won't work...

 

The short block is the same on both (different oil pump on rev-up), the '05-'07 6MT equipped vehicles have variable exhaust timing added to the heads/timing chain cover so make sure you verify WHICH VQ35DE motor you are buying.

If you don't know how to tell use Google, you can't miss the extra two VVT solenoids and cam position sensors.

 

Also, this is all under the assumption that you are talking about a VQ35DE equipped G35 and not a newer HR or VHR one. Didnt give ANY details at all so...

 

hey guys im new to the g35 cpe logistics and i know there is probably 50 different ideas on this....but im buying a 04 cpe 6mt that needs a motor what motor do i have to bye to put in with the least amount of hassle if thats even the right word, and arent the altima motors the same they seem to be cheaper in price? and how many hours are we talking about to do the swap? P.S. im in central Florida if someone wants to help......LOL

 

the motor In the manual was an HR different connections?

 

Ok so if you have a 2007-2008 sedan AT you have a VQ35HR. Your only options for motor swap would be from another 2007-2008 AUTOMATIC equipped G35 or 2007-2008 350Z (both transmission 350Z came with the HR that year). The HR is easy to identify because it has two intake's, two throttle bodies.

B73, the motor you need is a VQ35DE NON-rev up. Your choice of donors are 2003-2006 G35 sedan, 2003-2004 G35 coupe, 2004-2008 M35, 2002-2006 350Z.

The altima/maxima transverse mounted motors will not work, neither will the pathfinder, murano, etc. Yes they are all technically VQ35DE but they have different provisions and deck height and won't work in the G. Do a google search for more information, if you've never done a motor installation/swap before I strongly suggest you seek help from knowledgeable folks to keep from doing it wrong and either wasting money or injuring yourself.

 

wow thanks abunch for that info........it sounds like it shouldnt be to hard to get that...... im not sure yet exactly if i have a true rod knock, it sounds like bent push rods from the old muscle car days, im not real up to date on these motors yet and what would go bad there. it has a tinty sound to it vs a hard metal to metal sound??????

 

Record the sound and upload it to youtube, post the link here and it will automatically embed the video, should get enough peoples opinions on the sound to make your head spin but rod knock is one of those sounds that's hard to mistake for something else.

You might be pinging or have timing chain slap from a worn tensioner, each sound is fairly unique but try to get a video from different perspectives including cabin, hood up, hood down, near the wheel well especially.

A competent mechanic with a stethoscope can give you a "real" diagnosis but a good youtube vid can definitely point you in the right direction.

Fortunately if it is rod knock you have a very common motor and you can source a used one with 60-80k for about a grand.

Eazdaskeez just did a swap, check out this thread, good pictures and will give you an idea what it entails if you're going to tackle the swap yourself.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...swap-time.html

 

awesome i will do so, it has a osiris uprev tune in it a nwp 75 mm TB 5/16 spacer and megan test pipes true dual exhaust and headers i hope that is all ....i hope

 

Cleric670 thank you......ok i think i have a bigger problem!!!!! i started the car no problem it has a little tick sound like low oil pressure to the top end, lifter? not all just sounded like one or two after about 2 minutes of running it sounded like it was getting tight so i shut it off....than i tried to start back up, and it did but was tight, i think something happen to oil pressure how comin is that in these? like i said i dont know these engines at all so im sorry to ask dumb questions if i can call someone to talk about it rather than typing all of it i have no problem with that let me know

 

Oil pump problems are pretty rare on these motors but if you do have a spun bearing it will still crank sometimes but it will destroy the motor quickly due to friction and a disentigrating bearing putting metal dust into the motor.

I recommend you drain your oil into a very clean container and drag a magnet through it to see if you have metal in the oil.

 

Ok soooooo I have new info for you on my issue, remember i just bought car two days ago based on the goodies that came with it knowing it wasnt a major fix, hmmmmm im confused now, but so happy to rule out rod knock I THINK AND HOPE
1st. well i drained the oil today.....OMG, would there be a reason it had ten courts of oil in it? thats right i drained ten cts out of it, HOLY CRAP!!!! WTF i thought maybe this was my problem and somebody got really stupid and i would get lucky
2nd. draged magnet through it and no metal to speak of or worth talking about with a 120.000 miles
3rd. noticed traces of copper again not to scared about that
4th. when its running all of the noise sounds like it is coming out of the front cover (timing chain) squealing, slapping, but also some banging, car idles great it changes sound as it idles?????
5th . oil light does not come on while running

how difficult is the front cover to take off just a bunch of bolts of course and comp. alt. power steer....... or should i take the to round covers off first at the top,