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Post Engine Swap Slow Throttle Response

Old Feb 20, 2020 | 02:44 PM
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Post Engine Swap Slow Throttle Response

I have a 2006 Sedan that I just did an engine/5AT swap over on. Everything seems fine with it as far as idle and zero CEL's but when I try and hit the throttle the engine will SLOWLY go through the rpm band, it dose rev though just slow. I do not think it is in limp mode since I am able to go above 2k. The donor engine/trans is out of a JDM 350z unknown which year. I did have to swap over my original harness to the new engine as well as the crank and cam sensors. I've tried swapping the throttlebody and did the idle relearn as well but that did not correct the issue. The only thing I haven't tried is using the original injectors as I figured they would be the same. Please let me know what you guys think, I am trying to avoid a trip to the dealer if I can.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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Sounds like you aren't getting proper cam advance.

There are other recalibrations you must do besides just the idle air, most important is the throttle closed position reset. I would just do them all in order.

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g3...procedure.html

You can check cam advance with the Nissan Datascan 2 app for android, with a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter like the BAFX adapter on Amazon.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:34 PM
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You must do the throttle closed position recalibration any time you unplug the throttle body.

Just to verify is this a Rev-Up or non Rev-Up swap? You used the same type of engine that was removed yes?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670
You must do the throttle closed position recalibration any time you unplug the throttle body.

Just to verify is this a Rev-Up or non Rev-Up swap? You used the same type of engine that was removed yes?
Yes, this was a non rev up swap. It was a like for like change. Only difference I noticed was the harnesses were not the same so I swapped over my original harness, ECU and sensors. I'll give the recalibration a shot when I get home.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:40 PM
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What was different about the harness??
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670
What was different about the harness??
The donor harness had a 3rd small connector in the cabin and used the narrow band o2 sensors at the headers. I put my widebands in and all other sensors except for the injectors.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 07:09 PM
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Ok that was the early 2003 model engine. As long as you kept your existing harness there shouldn't be any issues.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670
Sounds like you aren't getting proper cam advance.
Finally managed to get the timing readings. At idle I was seeing 13-14 @738 RPM and 40-44 @1400-3500 RPM. I did also change the injectors out to see if that would change anything as they look completely different from stock. I did notice a slight increase in RPM acceleration but its still acting strange. Do these numbers seem correct to you?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 10:20 PM
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Yeah that's normal timing advance. Check your throttle % via OBD2 then check how much it's ACTUALLY opening. On non-revup models you can turn the ignition ON and press the gas pedal to open the throttle plate.

Basically just making sure it opens fully.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 11:32 PM
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I just physically checked the TB via video from my phone and it is definitely no where near 100% open. I'd honestly say the most it opened while the car was running at temp was maybe 10-15%. The OBD log is showing the peddle at .76 at idle and max at 3.92. Maybe its the peddle sensor going bad? I did do the procedures you mentioned prior as well as swap TB's, same result.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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Sounds like it's in failsafe mode but the CEL should be lit and throwing DTC P2119.

You're sure you did the pedal relearn and the throttle closed position relearn yes?

The accelerator pedal has two separate signals you can read, should be something like APP1 and APP2 usually. The voltage you saw is correct for closed/open on sensor 1 but you should be able to see BOTH switches. The ECM makes sensor2 have voltage that looks like about half what sensor 1 will send but if you measure it with a DMM they will look nearly identical so don't be confused when you see sensor 2 only showing something like 2.5v with an OBD2 scanner.

If it detects a problem with the APP then you get either code P2122 or P2123 and it will accelerate VERY slowly sort of like what you're experiencing, however there's almost always a code being thrown and the CEL on.

I would perform the APP released position relearn and the throttle valve closed position relearn one more time. Are you 100% sure those recalibrations both worked?




 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 11:38 AM
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Turn the key to the ON position and check the CEL lamp to make sure it turns on as well, might be throwing a code but the lamp is broken.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 12:06 PM
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Yes, I did do both of those procedures before. I'll try and reset the ECU and do them again. I did also check for fault codes while I was getting the timing and the ECU dose not show any.
 
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