Chain/tensioners were installed correctly, all timing marks lined up correctly even after rotating and letting sit and rotated again. After everything was reinstalled, car would crank but zero attempts to fire. Pulled codes and got p0340 p0345 camshaft position sensor bank A and bank B. Replaced both sensors, still the same no attempt to fire. Brand new spark plugs. Everything has been checked and rechecked that it was installed and plugged back in correctly. Even checked the battery to make sure enough voltage was being seen by the CPS. Kind of at a loss here, ANY input would be greatly appreciated.

Did these codes exist BEFORE you replaced the timing chain?

Typically that code means the ECM doesn't see the sensor AT ALL, like if it wasn't even there. Not just that it's sending a wrong signal.

Did you bend any pins on the sensor?

Did you get the sensors swapped to the wrong side (not sure it's possible). Did you use an aftermarket brand or did you use OEM Genuine Nissan or Hitachi (the OEM supplier). These cars are notorious for not working with aftermarket sensors.

Exactly what year and chassis are you working on (i.e. 2003 5AT sedan, or 2006 6MT coupe).

Just to verify you did index the crank / cams to the correct position yes? No. 1 cylinder cam lobes should be pointed towards each other at the top for TDC1, on the intake/exhaust cam chains the single punch lines up with the single gold link, double punch lines up with the two gold links. Main chain the crank orange link lines up with the punch and the intake cams each have a punch that lines up with the pink link.

Its a 2003 MT coupe.
I’m not sure if the codes were there before the timing job, but it’s a good possibility. Just in the moment of when the car went down and towing it home I spaced running it for codes. (as you will read below)
no bent pins, the sensors only bolt to the side they are supposed to be on.
Import direct sensors which was all that was available. I was getting the code with the old OE sensors in after the timing job as well though.
I followed this guide
https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-replace-your-vq35de-timing-chain/

to do the timing job, and I checked and rechecked all of the timing marks and the colored marks on the chain.
I understand that the codes mean the sensors aren’t being seen at all which is why it is so confusing. Prior to the timing job I never had these codes. The reason for the timing job was, I was driving to work one night and suddenly the car felt like it had no power, I got off on the side of the road immediately and could hear the timing chain(s) slapping around towards the front right of the timing cover. I turned the car off and it was only started once more for a couple of seconds for diagnosis. After that the car was towed home and not started again. Once I pulled the timing cover off I found that that the main timing chain was off by a single link. And the right (looking at the front of the engine) secondary tensioner was completely dead. I replaced all timing parts and as mentioned checked everything multiple times before putting it back together. But once I went to start it threw the codes and isn’t firing at all because apparently it can’t see the cam sensors.

Possible ECM went?

Yeah that link is a good walkthrough of changing the timing chain but I would definitely remove the valve covers so you can hold onto the cams with a large crescent wrench to remove/install bolts.

Next step is to ring out your cam sensors back to the ECM to verify the wires aren't broken.

Bank1

is the orange and pink wire back to the ECM, harness is shown at the bottom of the diagram. Black wire should have continuity to ground.

Bank 2 is yellow and pink, black is still ground, here's that diagram.

FYI I did remove my valve covers.
And I will have the test those tomorrow.

If you aren't familliar with "ringing out wire" what you need to do it get a digital multimeter, set it to OHMS. Then take one probe and put it in the ECM harness (battery disconnected, ECM harness and CMP harnesses unplugged), then put the other probe in the CMP harness. You should have the same value on the screen as if you were directly touching the probes together, usually ZERO or ONE ohm depending on the meter. Test for value before you actually ring the wire, just touch the two probes together, that's the value you should see.

If you have a broken wire then it won't change the value of the meter, you also need to test the ground pin 1 black wire on the harness, ring it back to the negative battery cable.

It's called "ringing out the wire" because most of your professional meters make an audible tone when you have continuity. You don't need a fancy meter for this, a $5 Cen-tech meter from Harbor Freight will work just fine.

This is the ohms setting on a cheapo meter, I would pick 200 ohms range.

If your probes won't reach then just poke a longer wire onto the harness to extend it. Probably easier to poke the wire into the CMP harness since it's a female side.

yeah I have a multimeter, and am familiar with this process, however I had not heard that term before. I’ll check tomorrow what you have recommended. I appreciate the explanation and I’ll report back with what I find.

So, it seems to be cranking over slowly even though I’ve had the battery tested for voltage and cold cranking amp’s in both test came back that the battery was 100%, I’m not sure if that plays in here but it is an additional piece of information for you

sorry it took me so long, I got really busy with work. Ok so something very strange is going on. I went to test for continuity, and when I pulled the the ECM wiring harness the female pin is missing for 119? Where I’m supposed to be testing? I know it seems really strange but here is a photo.

Did you figure out the issue? Mines cranking but no spark changed the cpk sensor basically shut down while driving had a cpk code changed the sensor and still no spark cranks healthy

no I haven’t. There’s supposed to be a pin from what I understand in the pin slot 119 that runs back to both Cam angle sensors. But the pin appears to not be there. I am kind of at a loss. I’ve tested resistors and checked fuses. There is just no communication to the sensors.